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Possible Oil Leak? Also Check Engine Light?

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    Possible Oil Leak? Also Check Engine Light?

    So this is whats going on,
    So today i was driving it. and about a good 50 min drive?

    My Check Engine light came on.

    So I stop And pop the hood.

    saw a bunch of smoke coming from the engine.

    This is not my picture. But it helps.

    Coming from one of the gasket covers there was oil surrounding it, and dripping on to the Header. Which then Im guessing is burning it. Which is causing the smoke. If im correct that would be right?



    So Now, Im wondering The check engine light possible came on cause of the Smoke coming from the oil leak i guess?
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    #2
    The check engine light is very likely unrelated to the oil leak.

    If you go under the passenger side door panel,. you'll see a blue electical connector there (the service connector). With the car off, put a piece of wire between the two pins, like maybe a bent paper clip. Now when you start the car, the check engine light will flash a signal. Long flashes for the tens digit, fast flashes for the ones digit.

    If you get the code and write back in we can tell you more about what's going on.

    As to the oil leak, it seems likely that if you have a loose valve cover nut, the sealing grommet under that nut could leak. But also the valve cover gasket under that quadrant of the valve cover might be leaking, so retorque all the valve cover bolts to 9 ft-lbs. It looks like maybe the valve cover sealing grommet that is leaking was undertorqued and vibrated loose. 9 ft lbs is not tight at all, if you don't have a torque wrench then only try to do it by hand with a nutdriver (screwdriver) style handle, as a ratchet handle gives you too much power. The socket size you'll need is 10mm.

    Actually if I were you I'd take it in to a mechanic because if your valve cover gasket is leaking in that quadrant it could be leaking onto the timing belt, which would be major $$ if it messes it up. A mechanic can pop the valve cover off, remove the upper timing cover, and check the condition of the timing belt, then replace the valve cover gasket creating a proper seal.

    Of course you could do this too if it's your kind of thing.
    Last edited by batever; 07-13-2009, 10:50 AM.

    Comment


      #3
      Alright thanks man, ill check it out tomorrow. i drove the car all day today with no engine smoke today very strange even pushed the car to about 100 and no oil spill or in the such check the engine every time i stopped no smoke this time.

      I did Tighten the Value cover down today. with a socket wrench. with 10mm.

      anyways i check with my friend who fix cars and owns his own garage and stuff.
      he said yes its leaking, and could just be it needed more tighten down. or The seal on it is bad. so we first proceeded to tighten it more down as they seem kinda loose i guess. then he said, its not leaking to bad right now just take it a little easy. and try and replace those as soon as possible but right now its not leaking enough oil to damage anything.

      so we tighten it down for now. I took my car out with him. we went for a drive i pushed my car to about 90-100 to see if it was gonna leak then high rpm/mph should get it to come out like last time and burn it on the headers.

      after checking the engine mutiple times, it seemed it didnt leak much, but it was still leaking but very little.

      anyways he said if i can get him the value cover gasket kit for my car he will replace it for free.

      so If i can be link to a gasket kit for it that be great. thanks f22a6 engine.
      Looking For Some CB7Tuner sticker, No Credit Card to buy one. Anyone wanna give me for free?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Darkshowdo View Post
        Alright thanks man, ill check it out tomorrow. i drove the car all day today with no engine smoke today very strange even pushed the car to about 100 and no oil spill or in the such check the engine every time i stopped no smoke this time.

        I did Tighten the Value cover down today. with a socket wrench. with 10mm.

        anyways i check with my friend who fix cars and owns his own garage and stuff.
        he said yes its leaking, and could just be it needed more tighten down. or The seal on it is bad. so we first proceeded to tighten it more down as they seem kinda loose i guess. then he said, its not leaking to bad right now just take it a little easy. and try and replace those as soon as possible but right now its not leaking enough oil to damage anything.

        so we tighten it down for now. I took my car out with him. we went for a drive i pushed my car to about 90-100 to see if it was gonna leak then high rpm/mph should get it to come out like last time and burn it on the headers.

        after checking the engine mutiple times, it seemed it didnt leak much, but it was still leaking but very little.

        anyways he said if i can get him the value cover gasket kit for my car he will replace it for free.

        so If i can be link to a gasket kit for it that be great. thanks f22a6 engine.
        there you go.

        any Autozone or whatever will sell you a Felpro valve cover gasket for $20 or so.

        Or do what I did when I needed to seal up my valve cover and my local auto shop was closed: get some "The Right Stuff" by Permatex in an aerosol can for $10z (I had it on hand on my shelf) and fill up the valve cover gasket center channel with it, plus a little more so it sticks up enough to squish down and form a seal when it's tightened on, and tighten it down. Worked great for me, and the extra in the can can reseal the valve cover like 6 more times, try that with a normal gasket. Plus unlike some other gasket makers it makes a normal-type rubber gasket that can be easily cleaned out of the valve cover channel etc.

        BTW, it's not the speed of the car per se that will challenge the gasket, but just the engine running and in particular at higher rpms (the oil pump pumps 5x more oil per second at 5000 rpm than at 1000 rpm).

        Very important--have your friend make sure the timing belt and the camshaft pulley that it goes over are clean (no oil on them ) when he does the valve cover. You can see them when the valve cover is off.

        If you check the engine code, make sure to remove the jumper wire afterwards (after the car is shut off) as the engine timing won't work correctly for driving with it in.

        Also, to reset the ECU (electronic control unit), after you check the code, you need to remove and reinsert the ECU fuse from the passenger side fuse box under the hood up by the windshield.
        Last edited by batever; 07-12-2009, 01:51 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by batever View Post
          there you go.

          any Autozone or whatever will sell you a Felpro valve cover gasket for $20 or so.

          Or do what I did when I needed to seal up my valve cover and my local auto shop was closed: get some "The Right Stuff" by Permatex in an aerosol can for $10z (I had it on hand on my shelf) and fill up the valve cover gasket center channel with it, plus a little more so it sticks up enough to squish down and form a seal when it's tightened on, and tighten it down. Worked great for me, and the extra in the can can reseal the valve cover like 6 more times, try that with a normal gasket. Plus unlike some other gasket makers it makes a normal-type rubber gasket that can be easily cleaned out of the valve cover channel etc.

          BTW, it's not the speed of the car per se that will challenge the gasket, but just the engine running and in particular at higher rpms (the oil pump pumps 5x more oil per second at 5000 rpm than at 1000 rpm).

          Very important--have your friend make sure the timing belt and the camshaft pulley that it goes over are clean (no oil on them ) when he does the valve cover. You can see them when the valve cover is off.

          If you check the engine code, make sure to remove the jumper wire afterwards (after the car is shut off) as the engine timing won't work correctly for driving with it in.

          Also, to reset the ECU (electronic control unit), after you check the code, you need to remove and reinsert the ECU fuse from the passenger side fuse box under the hood up by the windshield.
          Alright sounds good, I check my oil leak today, and saw it seems to be dripping still. and some smoke is being created again. Im going to go get a kit and have him replace the covers.

          Today we check the timing belts and it seemed ok and ran the car for about a hour and no problems.

          Only problem it seems to have was the staring wheel was shaking when in idle. And a Oil leak, ever once and awhile.

          but Im gonna do my check engine light today, and ECU reset. And also Hopefully cause

          when i turn my car on my Check engine isnt on. Its happens about 15-30mins into driving so should i still be able to get my engine light codes?
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          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Darkshowdo View Post
            I did Tighten the Value cover down today. with a socket wrench. with 10mm.
            Be super careful when tightening those. They are really easy to break. My back right one has no stud, and I cant get it loose to replace it.

            Originally posted by Darkshowdo View Post
            so If i can be link to a gasket kit for it that be great. thanks f22a6 engine.
            http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...061&questions=

            It also comes with the lower spark plug tube seals which you will want to replace if yours are leaking. You will see oil in the spark plug tubes if they are.
            Last edited by EJX_Michael; 07-13-2009, 03:11 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Darkshowdo View Post
              Alright sounds good, I
              Only problem it seems to have was the staring wheel was shaking when in idle. And a Oil leak, ever once and awhile.

              but Im gonna do my check engine light today, and ECU reset. And also Hopefully cause

              when i turn my car on my Check engine isnt on. Its happens about 15-30mins into driving so should i still be able to get my engine light codes?
              Yes, you'll be able to get the codes--the ecu stores them until you clear them out by pulling out the ecu fuse .

              If you have more than one code, you'll have more than one sequence of long and short flashes. For example, if you had the codes 12 and 03,the check engine light would blink like this:
              long short short i("12"), and there will be a pause, then short short short ("03".) Like that.

              I'm pretty sure you don't jumper the service connector unless the car is off. Then turn it on and check the codes.

              Then dejumper the service connector after you shut the car off.

              (In other words, I'm pretty sure you don't want to change the service connector jumper state (jumpered/nonjumpered) while the car is running.)

              Also again make sure to take the jumper wire out before actually driving the car around, as the ECU will leave ignition timing at base timing and not advance/retard the ignition timing according to engine rpms when the service connector is jumpered.
              Last edited by batever; 07-13-2009, 10:49 AM.

              Comment


                #8
                After doing my check engine light Code,

                I came back with a 43 which is Fuel supply sytem,

                Any help on this could be great as i have no clue where to start now.
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                Comment


                  #9
                  bump
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                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Darkshowdo View Post
                    After doing my check engine light Code,

                    I came back with a 43 which is Fuel supply sytem,

                    Any help on this could be great as i have no clue where to start now.
                    Try driving it again now that the valve cover gasket is on and see if the code resets to 43 again.

                    I'll look in my Haynes for suggestions for you later, off the top of my head I'd start with changing the fuel filter though.

                    But really, much better info coming soon once I look in my manual.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      alright will try that

                      thanks
                      Looking For Some CB7Tuner sticker, No Credit Card to buy one. Anyone wanna give me for free?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Code 43 is very often a bad oxygen sensor, believe it or not. Does it come on when you hit about 55mph on the highway?

                        It's a weird code for that, but the oxygen sensor reads the air/fuel content of the exhaust. When the reading comes back at a certain level, it determines that the fuel system isn't working properly. However, when the sensor goes bad, it sends an incorrect reading...

                        It's not a bad idea to change your fuel filter anyway, but that's very likely not the problem.






                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hmm i dont know about coming on likethat it comes on when i drive for about 15 mins so.
                          Looking For Some CB7Tuner sticker, No Credit Card to buy one. Anyone wanna give me for free?

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