Distributor Replacement DIY

[batever]

You could make a TDC mark on it by using the cambelt pulley as a reference for TDC.
Then by using an adjustable timing light (I forget the correct term) you can calculate your actual timing.

No, that actually won't work because there's no saying the cambelt pulley is right. Basically if you scribed based on the cambelt pulley then you would just be establishing a mark that preserves your existing engine timing, which might currently be off.

To scribe an accurate TDC mark on the flywheel (or where I would put it, on the crankshaft pulley) you need to find TDC for the number one piston. To do that, you need to use a device called a "dead stop", which is a spark plug that has a metal rod welded onto it that sticks into the cylinder far enough to stop the piston before it reaches the top of its travel. Using the deadstop in combination with a protractor bolted onto the crankshaft pulley, it is possible to find the actual spot on the crankshaft rotation that that piston #1 is at TDC. Then you can mark the crankshaft pulley with paint for tdc, and use that as the timing mark instead of a mark on the flywheel. Of course, you could then transfer a mark to the flywheel again once you have a correct mark on the crankshaft pulley.

If someone wants to know how, use the search function on my screen name and the term "dead stop" and you will find a longer post. If you really are planning on doing it from my instructions, write me back (pm me) and I'll go over it again to make sure it all is right. I learned it from the book 4 stroke engine tuning by A. Bell.

[batever]

Ok, I replaced my dizzy with a new one and I installed an Accel external coil. Now my car won't start. I know that the timing is off. Is there a way to put it back in time while its not running? Will the timing light help? Can someone post a picture of the timing marks cuz i can't seem to find it.

the timing light won't help when the car is not running, unfortunately.
Unless the timing Is WAY off the car should start, even if it starts and runs badly. YOu could just try rotating the distributor a bit and then try starting it again, if it really is an ignition timing issue.

Ideally you want to find TDC for cylinder one on the intake stroke, then make sure that the leading edge of the distributor rotor is pointing to, or very near to, the #1 spark plug post on the distributor cap.


*the following procedure is safe to do (turning the engine by hand with the spark plugs still in the engine *only* if your engine valve timing is correct and your timing belt is not broken. since you didn't snap your timing belt, it will be safe for you to do now. However, normally people take the spark plugs out before rotating the engine by hand. Assuming the valve timing is correct or close to it (this is different than ignition timing ) this is safe for you to do leaving the spark plugs in the car

Pull the rubber plug out of the tranny housing below the upper radiator hose. You will see the flywheel there. Now take a 19mm socket and a foot and a half extension and a ratchet or breaker bar and put that 19mm socket on your crankshaft bolt. turn the crankshaft bolt counterclockwise, which will turn the cranskhaft pulley and crankshaft itself. counterclockwise. Every 1/s of a turn you will feel a lot of resistance building up. That's the air being compressed in the cylinder, as well as the springs in the valve train resisting against the camshaft pulley as it turns. Every time you feel that compression build up strong, you are near top of a compression stroke, either on cyl 1, 3, 4 or 2 (this is the firing order of the cylinders in the engine, I know it's out of numerical order that's the order they fire in though)

Just wait a few seconds and some of that air pressure will leak away and then you will be able to fine tune the crankshaft position in the following step:

Now go look at your flywheel. Look for a white mark on the flywheel. *(you might have to try a few times before seeing it--and it moves *fast* compared to how you move the crankshaft--all you need to do is move the crankshaft a little bit and that white mark will whizz by and out of view again)

Once you find the mark, move it to where it is lined up with the little pointer at the side of the flywheel.

YOu are at TDC for piston one at that point.

Now you can go look at your distributor rotor and see if its leading edge is pointing at the post for the number one spark plug wire. If it's way off, then you need to rotate the distributor to make it line up better, then see if the car will start.

*IMPORTANT*

take your socket and breaker bar off the crankshaft pulley bolt before trying to start the car or someone could get hurt or something could get damaged or bent by a flying breaker bar as the engine attempts to flail it around in a circle with extreme power.


What's an Accel external coil by the way?

[CB7/KA8]

^ Thanks for your help man. I really appreciate it. I'm going to try this as soon as I get home.

Since my car is a 1990 it came with an internal coil which is inside the distributor cap. The 92-93 came with external coils which is mounted to the left of the distributor. Since I was having problems with my distributor I went ahead and got an external coil dist. and purchased a universal coil from autopartswarehouse.com.

Here is a picture of it: