i had my car on running then it died and wont start anymore. once again i get no spark or fuel pressure. my fuses are good and my main relay is new. i already changed my ecu and ignition module. when i turn the key to ignition, my check engine light doent illuminate, as before my battery light didnt illuminate due to a blown fuse, but this time my battery light goes on but my check engine doesnt. im about to get another ignition module and ecu again. is there anything else i should check??
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I was going to say ecu but you're already looking into getting one. I'm pretty lost on this. I'll look around and see what I can find. -
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Did your timing belt snap? Have you checked it and verified the timing is still correct?1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp
Originally posted by James MatteuComment
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if my timing belt is snapped does that mean i wont get any fuel or spark??Comment
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fuel pump.
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That happened to me once and it was the dizzy, you have to check all the things mentioned as it could be the results of a number of things.1993 Accord EX2011 Subaru STi
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check your ignition swith, when you turn the key does it even krank? if so and if not then 99.9% its your swith when you turn the switch, the mini springs are blown...thats what happend to mine.
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"I ran open header once, it was sooooo loud little kids were running for cover as I was cruising at 2000rpms. That was enough to know I shouldn't floor it."Comment
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Spark: How can you get spark if the distributor doesn't rotate?Originally posted by enVmeACCORDngly View Post1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp
Originally posted by James MatteuComment
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more info
it cranks good.it ran good 2 days ago, but when i got my exhaust manifold on it ran bad, it wouldnt stay on unless i had to gas it a little so the rpm would stay up, then while i was stopped, my car just died off even though i had kept the rpm up a little bit, then it wouldnt start. it cranks, but when i turn it into the ignition, my check engine light doesnt go on.Comment
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Do more diagnosis before you start replacing parts again. Check for DTCs. If the check engine light does not illuminate when you jump the wire, make sure that the ECU is being powered. It is powered by the main relay.Originally posted by enVmeACCORDngly View Post
"The fault-finder will find faults even in paradise. Love your life, poor as it is. You may perhaps have some pleasant, thrilling, glorious hours, even in a poorhouse."-Henry David ThoreauComment
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we just replaced the main relay twice. im going to plug in my old ecu to see if anything changes. im so frustrated.Comment
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Like I said, diagnose. Replacing parts without having knowledge of their current state is an expensive gamble. You already have one lead: the check engine light is failing to illuminate. You could try replacing the ECU with a known working one, but I would first make sure that it is being supplied with power and ground.Originally posted by enVmeACCORDngly View Post
EDIT: Also just because you have a brand new main relay doesn't mean it is doing its job. It needs power and ground as well to work. Check its connections.Last edited by IAmTheNight; 08-15-2009, 08:35 PM.
"The fault-finder will find faults even in paradise. Love your life, poor as it is. You may perhaps have some pleasant, thrilling, glorious hours, even in a poorhouse."-Henry David ThoreauComment
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Make sure the ground connection on the thermostat housing is secure.Comment
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Ignitor, In the distributor. They are known to go bad. The last time I did my timing belt it happened to me on the way to the shop to do the belt. I just knew it was the belt, turned out to be the ignitor.
steve
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