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First Accord, got some noob questions...

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    First Accord, got some noob questions...

    My stepson picked up this car for free, 1993 Accord EX/2d/5spd.
    He drives a wrecker and it was turned in at a dealer with a bad fuel pump. He was supposed to take it to be scraped, but asked if he could take it home instead. They had cranked it dead, so we put a charger on it for a few hours and I went to reading...
    Cranking sounded good, up to speed. I could hear the fuel pump hum for a few seconds with key-on, but no go. Determined we were getting no spark at the coil. Left it overnight on the charger while I did some more reading.

    The next morning, just for shits and giggles I tried to start it again now that the battery was showing full charge, and it fired right up. Drove it around the block a few times, restarted several times...

    Are these things that suceptible to a weak battery? I mean, it was cranking over at a normal speed the night before.
    And, beyond a tune up, are there some maintenance items you guys recommend I take care of on a 250k unknown history motor?
    I just gave up my '90 max to my stepdaughter, in trade for the accord as I think it's a bit too much car for a first timer, so I gotta a new toy.
    Also, does the sunroof only operate 1 way? Is this the difference between a sun and a moon roof? In the max, I could open the glass up in the rear as a vent, close, or slide it back fully open. In the accord, it seems it only slides back, is this correct?

    #2
    It's funny you just mentioned that.... My Accord has 225k miles on it. I just took it to the shop 2 days ago to get the timing belts done on it. I've heard people recommend new timing belts anywhere from 75k to 100k miles. I'll do mine again at 300k (hopefully she'll make it!).

    Anyway back to the battery, The day after I got it back from the shop, I tried to start the car in the morning and it wouldn't start. It acted like it was either out of gas or had no spark... I ended up running the battery down trying to start it so I put the battery on a charger.... As it was charging I looked the car over closer. I found that when they worked on it they failed to tighten the wire on the alternator that sends current to the battery to maintain a charge. It was on but just barely hanging (poor connection). I tightened things up and put in the charged battery and she fired right up....

    In other words, at least in my experience, "YES" these cars need a fully charged battery to get a good start. I would have never suspected that the battery was too low because it sounded like it was turning over fine.....

    As far as maintenance. The timing belt is the only thing I have heard that is critical. Also you should do the water pump, cam seals and crank seals when you do the timing belt because they are all there anyway... You can loose a head or engine if the belt fails....

    Other than that I would go over it with the standard tuneup stuff. I put new belts, hoses, thermostat, plugs, wires, fuel filter, did an oil change and had the 5spd gearbox flushed and filled. I also put a new radiator in mine but that was because it was leaking.....

    These cars will run forever if you take care of them. Just keep changing the oil ever 3k (reg) or 5k (synth.)...

    Good luck!

    Jim

    Comment


      #3
      All cars will do the same with a weak battery. Change the fuel filter and spark plugs, check the wires and the inside of the distributor cap and rotor. Change the air filter, give it new fluids all around.
      Testing your knowledge and your wits.
      Need 10th anniversary wheel center caps. PM if you have them

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Ridemywideglide View Post
        Are these things that suceptible to a weak battery? I mean, it was cranking over at a normal speed the night before.
        not really, a weak battery will give you some ignition problems tho. ive had some bad luck with dead batterys. for some reason after they go dead, ill charge them with no luck, autozone will charge them wit no luck and i have to get a new one. if the battery is fully charged and the car seems to have no problems now, i would just keep riding for now or the safer route would be to get a new one.

        as fas a the mileage, i wouldn't worry about it. the main thing about these cars u really have to worry about is the timing belt. check/replace. also a valve cover gasket set (including the upper and lower tube seals if u have oil on your spark plug boot wires). these accords go and go and go. proper upkeep and don't drive them like the dukes of hazzard and they will last.


        the rebuild!
        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...50#post2073450

        Comment


          #5
          Great Find!

          Originally posted by Ridemywideglide View Post
          My stepson picked up this car for free, 1993 Accord EX/2d/5spd...
          Congratulations!


          Originally posted by Ridemywideglide View Post
          ...I could hear the fuel pump hum for a few seconds with key-on,...
          A dying Fuel Pump can work intermittently. You may want to keep an open mind with regard to the pump's longevity, but at least you know what to look for: the Fuel Pump should always prime the Fuel Rail with ~38 psi of gasoline each time the key is turned to the "key-on" position from OFF.


          Originally posted by Ridemywideglide View Post
          ...Are these things that suceptible to a weak battery? I mean, it was cranking over at a normal speed the night before.
          I don't believe so, but for a more balanced perspective I chose a vehicle at random and looked up the required Cold Cranking Amps. Per the AC Delco website, a 1991 Dodge Spirit 4-cylinder 2.5 liter motor with fuel injection requires 600-750 Cold Cranking Amps. My 1997 Honda Accord 6-cylinder 2.7 liter motor with fuel injection requires 550 Cold Cranking Amps. So, I can say it does not appear to be the case that Hondas are particularly susceptible to a weak battery; i.e. high cold cranking amperage requirements.


          Originally posted by Ridemywideglide View Post
          And, beyond a tune up, are there some maintenance items you guys recommend I take care of on a 250k unknown history motor?
          It depends on how clean you want your engine bay to be, oil leaks should be your biggest problem with that many miles and years on the motor. You can easily spend $100 or more and 10-12 hours replacing the: Distributor o-ring, Camshaft pulley-side seal, Crankshaft/Oil Pump seal, Balancer Shaft seals, Rear Main seal, etc.

          I would recommend checking the Front Balancer Shaft for a small metal retainer. The Front Balancer Shaft seal is prone to ejection and as a result there is a Honda TSB about installing a retainer over the seal. It may have already been done, but checking is worth your time.

          Also, replace the Timing Belt and Balancer Belt. You can do these belts and replace oil seals all in one afternoon with the right tools. Adjusting the Valve spacing and checking the ignition timing also wouldn't hurt.


          Originally posted by Ridemywideglide View Post
          ...Also, does the sunroof only operate 1 way? Is this the difference between a sun and a moon roof?
          The Moonroof you have only operates one-way. Honda defines a Moonroof as being glass or glass-like; i.e. you can see through it. Honda defines a Sunroof as being made of metal, fiberglass, carbon fiber, etc.; you cannot see through it.
          Last edited by James Matteu; 08-23-2009, 12:56 PM.
          1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
          C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
          MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
          ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

          Originally posted by James Matteu
          You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for all the replies.

            I've read up on the timing belt change, looks to be a weekend project for sure. It also does have oil in the plug wells, lots of it, so I'll tackle that at the same time.
            I agree on the battery, I'll be replacing it. For now the car is sitting as I'm prep'ing the max for paint.
            When I had to pay $250 for my first car, I was happy to just have one. Now I give her my car and it's "Yuk, that thing is ugly. My friends think I should paint it <insert 1 of 50 colors here>"
            Unbelievable....

            Also, is there a min-post limit on getting into the classifieds? I've seen a couple links to what appears to be CB7 classifieds, but get the not allowed error.
            I'm needing both power lock door handles ($75 on ebay, ouch) and also there are 2 empty holes in the rear side rests that look to need lids or something. Hoping there's a chance of part-outs on here as there are no JY's less that 100miles away around my area..

            Comment


              #7
              For the Inner Door Handles, I would either go to TAS or Majestic Honda. Ebay and other places sell third-party knock-offs that produce handles in off-color shades of Honda Interior Codes. Anyways, for some reason, the TAS or Honda parts are cheaper on top of being the right color.

              Are the lids covering a srew? I have trouble making out what you're referring to.
              1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
              C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
              MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
              ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

              Originally posted by James Matteu
              You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

              Comment


                #8
                You need 30 posts to access the Classifieds.

                As for the the battery... yes, a weak battery or dirty connections will allow the car to crank (sometimes it seem strong) and still not start. I learned this lesson the hard way, by replacing my starter and battery... only to have no start. A quick cleaning of the cables fixed it.






                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by James Matteu View Post
                  For the Inner Door Handles, I would either go to TAS or Majestic Honda. Ebay and other places sell third-party knock-offs that produce handles in off-color shades of Honda Interior Codes. Anyways, for some reason, the TAS or Honda parts are cheaper on top of being the right color.

                  Are the lids covering a srew? I have trouble making out what you're referring to.
                  Well I was looking at used pulls on ebay, but yea, cheaper is always better..
                  No it looks like a ashtray hole or something. I just snapped a pic I'll get it up on photobucket here in a min.

                  Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                  You need 30 posts to access the Classifieds.

                  As for the the battery... yes, a weak battery or dirty connections will allow the car to crank (sometimes it seem strong) and still not start. I learned this lesson the hard way, by replacing my starter and battery... only to have no start. A quick cleaning of the cables fixed it.
                  Thanks for the info..
                  I think I'll spend a few hours going through the connections and ground points.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Here a shot of the missing parts area...



                    And 1 of the car.



                    Someone gave it a backyard paint job and painted over the plastic trim guards all the way around... I'll give it another one and do it right.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Number 7&8 below: Right and Left Side Pocket Assembly, Silky Ivory.

                      $49.84 at Majestic Honda

                      1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
                      C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
                      MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
                      ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

                      Originally posted by James Matteu
                      You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ouch... Those will wait...

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I bet they'd be $5 at a junkyard.






                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                            I bet they'd be $5 at a junkyard.
                            That is a shame for 'Ridemywideglide' since...

                            Originally posted by Ridemywideglide View Post
                            ...there are no JY's less that 100miles away around my area..
                            1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
                            C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
                            MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
                            ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

                            Originally posted by James Matteu
                            You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I missed that!

                              www.car-part.com might come in handy, in that case.






                              Comment

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