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changing my oil pan gasket

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    changing my oil pan gasket

    so i did notice there is a diy oil pan removal on here but i wasnt sure it that also applies to a cb with an auto trans. my oil pan gasket is leaking really bad and i need to change it out but i was told i would need to remove torque converter bolts to get the pan out to change the gasket on the oil pan. sorry if this question is stupid but i am still new to working on cb's. any help is greatly appreciated. and also i am pretty sure you have to take off the exhaust at the manifold is it best to replace the gasket while i have it off as well?

    #2
    yea same as the manual, remove that torque converter plate.

    as for the gasket you can change it, its only a few bucks. I didnt do it on mine and its ok.

    tip: use bolt breaker solution or wd40 on the bolts.

    make sure your surface is clean before you put sealant or the gasket on, take your time to clean off the old surface on the block. you dont want it leaking later due to a dirty surface.
    What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

    You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

    Retro!

    Hater

    I love nooBs...They make me look good

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by accordztech View Post
      yea same as the manual, remove that torque converter plate.

      as for the gasket you can change it, its only a few bucks. I didnt do it on mine and its ok.

      tip: use bolt breaker solution or wd40 on the bolts.

      make sure your surface is clean before you put sealant or the gasket on, take your time to clean off the old surface on the block. you dont want it leaking later due to a dirty surface.
      is this pretty easy to do? also what is best to use to clean the surface? also i was looking in the haynes manual and it says to remove the oil pick up tube. is this necessary?

      Comment


        #4
        Its easy. I have to do it this weekend because mine leaks a wee bit. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THOSE RINGS THAT YOU SEE ON THE STUDS WHEN YOU REMOVE THE PAN! If you dont it will leak even worse and you dont want that. And no you dont have to remove the pick up tube.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by cb7lover1982 View Post
          is this pretty easy to do? also what is best to use to clean the surface? also i was looking in the haynes manual and it says to remove the oil pick up tube. is this necessary?
          Just take a clean rag and make sure everything is wiped down to clean it. You just don't want dirt or gunked up oil or something on the mating surface when you go to put it back together. The same thing as when you change your oil and you wipe off (at least I do lol) where the oil filter goes before you put the new one off.

          Comment


            #6
            its easy and messey lol.

            I used sealant on my gasket dispite what everyone else thinks, i didnt want to do that again and the sealant helped me have an idea how tight it was when i torqued it down. I torqued it down little by little untill the sealant slightly ooozed out evenly all the way around.

            the fastest part is taking it down, the longest part is cleaning and putting it back together.
            What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

            You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

            Retro!

            Hater

            I love nooBs...They make me look good

            Comment


              #7
              Yeah I normally use permatex or something similar on gaskets. Especially in the corners. As far as tightening it.......torque wrench lol?
              Last edited by Brandoncb7; 09-23-2009, 02:11 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                +1

                There have been numerous discussion on many forums over the use of torque wrenches with regards to oil seals. I really do not understand why people insist on continuing to install seals improperly (without a torque wrench).

                Okay, for old times' sake: you cannot gauge torque by hand, uneven torque distorts seals, distorted seals have shortened operational lifespans (leaks sooner), all surfaces holding seals must be torqued to spec.

                'Kay? Great, now buy another gasket (the one you have could be distorted already) and reinstall it properly now or when the one you installed leaks (could be sooner than later).
                1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
                C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
                MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
                ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

                Originally posted by James Matteu
                You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

                Comment


                  #9
                  When you are tightening it down make sure to do it evenly. Don't torque it down all the way at once, do all the bolts evenly.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gcvphoto View Post
                    When you are tightening it down make sure to do it evenly. Don't torque it down all the way at once, do all the bolts evenly.
                    You're close. Helms says to tighten the bolts to 10 ft-lbs. in three steps. What does that mean? Finger tight all the bolts, then torque them to 5 ft-lbs. (60 in-lbs.), finally torque the bolts to 10 ft-lbs. (120 in-lbs.).

                    I had persistent seal failure until I adopted the meathod described above.
                    1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
                    C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
                    MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
                    ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

                    Originally posted by James Matteu
                    You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thats what i meant to say, but i didn't know the correct specs off the top of my head and didn't feel like looking it up right now. Good information though. Thanks.

                      Originally posted by James Matteu View Post
                      You're close. Helms says to tighten the bolts to 10 ft-lbs. in three steps. What does that mean? Finger tight all the bolts, then torque them to 5 ft-lbs. (60 in-lbs.), finally torque the bolts to 10 ft-lbs. (120 in-lbs.).

                      I had persistent seal failure until I adopted the meathod described above.

                      Comment

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