Could this be true: A temporary cure for bad ring lands or burning oil

[L_U_D_I_AAccord]

OK
Getting really furstrated with my car.
A couple of days ago i relaced my valve seals, yes they were bad compared to the new seals, no I don't have the reduculous clouds of blue smoke at start but the car still burns oil thru the rings . At this point i am using 15-40 oil and still.
Here is what i found on the net:

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=347130

do you think it will work???
heading to the store tommorow to give it try

[accordztech]

this stuff helped my oil consumption.

www.auto-rx.com

it was proved by www.bobistheoilguy.com

but its a big can of worms with hella peoples opinions.

[SacTownCb7]

why not give it a try, i don't really know anything about the matter but i say go with it

[L_U_D_I_AAccord]

this stuff helped my oil consumption.

www.auto-rx.com

it was proved by www.bobistheoilguy.com

but its a big can of worms with hella peoples opinions.

i have read about this product, but not sure about that
the CD-2 makes more sence, because it is not cleaning it is adding to the oil

[johnl]

Is the compression also low? It might be that the rings are stuck in the lands (with gummy / carbonised / varnish like deposits). If so then this can mean that the rings can't push strongly enough against the bores to seal and / or scrape excess oil from the bore. I've read that this is a more common reason for low compression and poor oil control than actual ring and bore wear.

My understanding is that Auto-RX is a cleaning agent that (among other things) cleans the offending crap from the rings and ring lands. I can't vouch for it's effectiveness. You could get the same effect by physically cleaning the rings and lands, but this does require disassembling the motor, in which case you might as well hone the bores and fit new rings.

Note that stuck rings can overheat (not able to lose enough heat into the cooler bore wall due to not being in proper contact) and lose their 'springiness'. If this happens it results in the rings losing their ability to seal even after they have been 'unstuck' and cleaned up.

[L_U_D_I_AAccord]

Is the compression also low? It might be that the rings are stuck in the lands (with gummy / carbonised / varnish like deposits). If so then this can mean that the rings can't push strongly enough against the bores to seal and / or scrape excess oil from the bore. I've read that this is a more common reason for low compression and poor oil control than actual ring and bore wear.

My understanding is that Auto-RX is a cleaning agent that (among other things) cleans the offending crap from the rings and ring lands. I can't vouch for it's effectiveness. You could get the same effect by physically cleaning the rings and lands, but this does require disassembling the motor, in which case you might as well hone the bores and fit new rings.

Note that stuck rings can overheat (not able to lose enough heat into the cooler bore wall due to not being in proper contact) and lose their 'springiness'. If this happens it results in the rings losing their ability to seal even after they have been 'unstuck' and cleaned up.

so do you think i should do the Auto-RX first???
and then do the CD-2 oil treatment?
at this point the car really uses oil, i would drive about 300 miles and there you go a 1qt of oil is gone, NO THERE ARE NO LEAKS, I can see black smoke during heavy acceleration, and YES i have cleaned the EGR valve and ports. I know that my rings are bad!

[phayze]

so do you think i should do the Auto-RX first???
and then do the CD-2 oil treatment?
at this point the car really uses oil, i would drive about 300 miles and there you go a 1qt of oil is gone, NO THERE ARE NO LEAKS, I can see black smoke during heavy acceleration, and YES i have cleaned the EGR valve and ports. I know that my rings are bad!

i thought black smoke was to much gas

[johnl]

so do you think i should do the Auto-RX first???
and then do the CD-2 oil treatment?

As I said, I can't vouch for the effectiveness of Auto-RX, nor that of CD-2 for that matter (never even heard of CD-2).

'BOBISTHEOILGUY' is probably the best place online to research these things. The site is populated by people who just live for oils and additives, including a number of professional 'tribologists' (look up 'tribology').

at this point the car really uses oil, i would drive about 300 miles and there you go a 1qt of oil is gone, NO THERE ARE NO LEAKS, I can see black smoke during heavy acceleration, and YES i have cleaned the EGR valve and ports. I know that my rings are bad!

At this point you probably have nothing much to lose by trying these products (other than the cost of the product...). If you're engine is using that much oil then you're looking at an imminent rebuiild, or a second hand engine, or trying something like Auto-RX etc.

I would do my research on chemical approaches though to make sure I use the most suitable / effective for the particular problem, and keep in mind that the engine may be too far gone for anything like this to work...

And, black smoke is associated with an overly rich fuel / air mixture. Oil smoke is more greyish or blueish. Enough black smoke may obscure lighter coloured oil smoke...

[bcjammerx]

The site won't load...but I'm 99% sure I don't even need to read what that stuff is to tell you

no it will not work

This is NO temporary fix...there is only the ONE solution. If your rings aren't holding compression nothing you put in will regain compression...NOTHING...read that again please...NOTHING

There is a procedure done during a compression check...I assume where this crap got its start...again the site won't load so I'm guessing here...

This procedure is where you do a dry check..then a "wet" check...yes the compression MAY boost up a little with the "wet" check. But once you run the engine the wetness goes away. It is just a test to see if the rings are the leak...if the wet compression bumps up...they are suspect. But that bump doesn't last. Hell after one or two revs it's burned out (usually add some odd ounces of tranny fluid in the comb chamber was what our inst. did)

think about it...if there was gunk on them causing the rings to not seal...you've either got
1. new rings and thus a shitty builder...or
2. you've got some serious issues that only a rebuild with new rings will fix.

also consider this....your engine spins on average during your drive 2500-3000 revolutions per minute! Do you think any "temporary" coating will last very long at 3000 revolutions per minute? That's 75,000 revolutions in 25 minutes.

and let's not forget the heat...that would diminish the life of any temporary fix even more.

So no...no it will not.

Please do not waste your money on snake oil...remember the rules of life

1. if it sounds too good to be true...it is
2. there is no such thing as a free lunch (tin stafl)
3. the fine print you don't see IS there...and it will bite you in the ass
4. there is SOOO much more than you realize you don't know

just threw in the last two for shit...there's more of course...but that's for later.

This reminds me of that oil crude you're supposed to put in your engine...it's as thick as molasses...no joke...yet people keep buying it...hell it's made by stp it has to be good..."I swear by this stuff"

The sells tactic MOST used is testimonials...and it's also the least accurate in the way of proof...most full of bullshit.

Just think...and realize...nothing temporary will work.

As to auto-rx...from what I can tell it's just a cleaner...it cleans the engine, oil flows better, doesn't stay in hot spots and burn out as much. But not...it won't help ringlands seal better. It may help in a small way by cleaning the crude and allowing newer/cleaner oil to lube parts but it won't restore compression as you are thinking.

[deevergote]

Temporary, perhaps. Nothing in a bottle is ever going to fix your engine.

[F22HB]

This just reminds me of the Zmax commercials... :/

[H22Artman]

Temporary, perhaps. Nothing in a bottle is ever going to fix your engine.

true.
but this shit comes close...
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p...t0000541e.html

these are the NAPA P/N's for the

MOS2: LM2009
Motor oil saver: LM2020

i see salesmen all day long and most of the time i just fall asleep halfway thru their pitch...
the luro/liqui moly guy had my attention from word one. very impressive.

i guess german ww2 pilots used to put gobs of moly-disulphide (the stuff in the mos2) all over their plane engines. if the motor were to get shot and lose all its oil, the moly-disulphide was such a good anti-friction agent it would keep the plane running long enough to make a safe landing.

the europeans have been swearing by this stuff for 50+ years. its been available here for some time but more geared to jobbers than public retail.

get your asses to NAPA and order some of this stuff!!

i use the Mos2 and both fuel additives. so far i have noticed a definite increase in MPG (1-2mpg city) and a bit of freed up power according to my butt dyno.

not proof by any means that this stuff is as good as they say it is, but for the price its worth everyone giving it a shot before they condemn or praise it....

[bcjammerx]

nope...more snake oil...haven't seen ONE of these type products proven to actually work and not cause some sort of damage elsewhere...NON.

Only thing that works in oil to protect your engine...is oil. Even too many additives isn't a good thing...stick with the formulations made by the big boys...if there was some extra ingredient giving them the edge...they put it in and market the hell outta that. A little is good...more isn't always better

[L_U_D_I_AAccord]

here is the link again

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=347130

[johnl]

nope...more snake oil...haven't seen ONE of these type products proven to actually work and not cause some sort of damage elsewhere...NON.

Only thing that works in oil to protect your engine...is oil. Even too many additives isn't a good thing...stick with the formulations made by the big boys...if there was some extra ingredient giving them the edge...they put it in and market the hell outta that. A little is good...more isn't always better

My understanding is that there are a number of oils that use moly additives in their formulation, Redline being one. Whether it's a good idea to add it to an oil that doesn't already have it I can't say, but I do know that if it's incorrectly added there can be issues with the moly settling out of suspension.

Try this link:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php