Preparing H22 for Turbo Before Swapping into CB7

[opiateofsorrow]

Hello all,

I have my H22 in the garage, and I don't really have the funds yet to completely turbo the engine before swapping.

However, I wanted to know if someone could help me, with the key things to get done, before putting the engine in, because I'm quite sure there are some things that would be cheaper to have done while the engine is out. For example resleeve, port and polish, pistons and rods, etc. That way, I can swap the engine and then put the turbo on at a later time.

Thanks!

[deevergote]

How come you've decided to turbo the H22? The F22 offers just as much potential, without the expense of buying a new engine...

But, since you have the H22, at least you understand that replacing the sleeves and internals is necessary. Most people expect to slap a turbo on a stock block and boost the hell out of it!

Basically, you've already nailed it. Besides replacing all seals and belts (which should ALWAYS be done before a swap anyway), all the things you listed should be done.
I've been told by an experienced builder that the H22 does better for turbo with just a polish, no porting. I have no personal knowledge to back this up, however. It's something you may want to check into, at least.

You will also need a strong clutch. Turbo will very quickly eat a stock clutch.

Other than that... get the necessary things for tuning the ECU, and find yourself a good tuner (actually, find the tuner first, and ask them what they are most comfortable working with... then get that!) Tuning is extremely important with a turbo build. You can easily blow your motor without a good tune, even if it's built.

[opiateofsorrow]

Yeah thanks a bunch. The reason I chose the H22, is because I bought it for 500 $, so I'm definitely not complaining. I'm going to look for a tuner around my area and start there.

As for clutches.... Well, I actually prefer automatic. I've heard a rumor that using an automatic eats some horsepower as opposed to standard? How hard is it to do a standard swap in my accord?

[deevergote]

The 5 speed swap isn't difficult. There are DIY threads about it that show it in decent detail. The only difficult part is welding the transmission mount bracket on from a 5 speed model... unless you invest in the Explicit Speed Performance mount, which makes it a bolt-on deal.

Tuning for an auto is more difficult, so be sure your tuner knows what they're getting into. Most of the guys that tune ECUs on here won't touch an auto. I don't know the exact reasons, as I have yet to learn that stuff in detail... but I know it's more involved.
Auto does sap some horsepower, but it also helps keep the engine under load, which is rumored to be better for turbo performance.

The only real problem is that the H and F series automatic transmissions generally don't like the torque of turbo. That, and they've almost ALL been mistreated... fluid changes should be done with Honda fluid ONLY, every 30,000 miles at the very least. Most people don't do this... and the few that have usually seem to do it with non-Honda fluid. For this reason, our automatics have a reputation for being weak.

If you want to boost the auto, I strongly suggest getting the transmission built as well. There are a few very reputable auto transmission builders around. Level10 in NJ is who I would go with (of course, I live 2 hours away from them... not that I have an automatic, but if I did...)


And yeah, for $500, that's a good deal.

[opiateofsorrow]

I've been pretty lucky lately, I am buying A CB7 off a dude here for 700$, its already lowered, tinted, with a body kit, blacked out (thats the way I like it). Cold air intakes make me wince a bit though, I feel like you're sucking all the water in from the fender when you hit a splash. I prefer short ram. I'm going to put a few pics up in a bit of what I've got. He has a few SE leather panels already swapped in. I also have a 500$ 92 Accord with a standard I've been using as a parts car. I read somewhere that the F22 manual tranny doesn't really do so well on the H22 engine, because the teeth on the gears are longer, so the VTEC kicks in at a later time? Is this true?

Hmm, I think I might swap to standard. If I am going to do that, I definitely will get the bolt on, as I have no welding experience, though I'm not sure if it would really cost too much to get done. Not to mention I shift my auto like a standard (please don't choke me out for doing this lol.)

Can you recommend some options for standard transmissions with regard to turboing?? I have very little knowledge of these sorts of things, what would I need to replace on a standard so it would handle the turbo?

I just wanted to say thanks, i really really really appreciate this site, so much knowledge. I just wish I had some dudes in Edmonton that are CB7 enthusiasts. Had a guy honk at me like I was in a CB7 club the other day though. lol.

[deevergote]

Shifting auto like a standard is actually slower, believe it or not! People have argued this... but I've known reputable members to show otherwise on the track (an auto H22 running mid-16s shifted manually... sad...)

The F22A transmission's gearing is longer, but it doesn't make VTEC engage any later. It just takes longer to get to the crossover point. Additionally, shifting at the top of one gear will often result in starting the next gear before the VTEC crossover point, meaning you fall out of the powerband. It's not a terrible thing, but it can be irritating. Adusting the VTEC crossover to be a bit lower is one way to fix that (4800 is a good point... it's usually set at 5000-5200 from the factory, because that "kick" sold cars... the kick is actually a lump in the powerband, and it's better if the VTEC transition is unfelt.)

For turbo, the F22A manual transmission is actually probably the best choice. You WANT longer gears for turbo, as it keeps the turbo spooled longer. You don't want to keep shifting and having to respool the turbo every time. In a quarter mile run, the F22 trans will usually result in one less shift than the H22 trans.


As for replacing parts... as long as the standard transmission is in good shape, all you'd need to worry about is the clutch. You definitely want a good clutch to handle the power, especially if you'll be building the H22 to handle high boost. The transmisson, if in good condition, should hold the power just fine. The only things that tend to go on the Honda standards are the synchronizers... which can result in grinding gears.

Synchrotech (formerly Gear Speed, I believe) has a good reputation for rebuilding standard transmissions to handle lots of power.

Adding LSD would also be a good choice.

[opiateofsorrow]

Okay, so setting the VTEC to a different RPM range would be done by ECU Tuning correct? And how hard is it to get LSD? Don't some of the Accords come with LSD already installed?

Its relieving that I can use the F22 manual transmission, it saves me having to buy another part. So then, you recommend I send my manual trans in to be modded for power? The stock one cannot quite handle the power? I'm assuming it depends on how much power I want, correct? However, I will definitely get an aftermarket clutch. I'm going to go take some pics of my accord as it stands and post em up here.

[deevergote]

The stock one, if in good condition, should be fine. A rebuild will only make it better, though. It's nothing imperitive.

No Accords in the US came with LSD, and no 4th generation Accords came with it at all. You can get an H22 transmission with LSD (M2B4), or you can get an aftermarket unit insalled. I would go with the aftermarket, personally. Syncrotech can do it for you with their unit, Quaife makes a fantastic unit, and M-tec is supposedly very good (one trusted member here claims that they're better than Quaife, and a good deal cheaper, too)

And yes, adjusting the VTEC crossover can be done with ECU tuning. You can also get a VTEC controller, but I'm not a fan of those types of tools. A P28 ECU from a 92-95 Civic EX or Si would be your best bet for an ECU to modify and tune.