Eliminating vac lines on intake manifold??

[420CB7]

What kind of vacuums and other odds and ends can i eliminate on my intake manifold?

[DJ metadelic]

Bunch of the guys were talking about this before: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=intake+delete

As for others, not sure. I've just always left them alone.

[cb7_reverand]

What kind of vacuums and other odds and ends can i eliminate on my intake manifold?

depends on what you want to work. and also on what you are using the car for, ie. drag only, daily driving, emission state? Tell us more on why you are wanting to delete "extra" vacuum ports, and we then can help you out.

[420CB7]

I live in florida so no emissions its gonna be daily driver but highly modified f22a4

[cb7_reverand]

I live in florida so no emissions its gonna be daily driver but highly modified f22a4

No emissions. then you can remove all vacuum lines that deal with your evap system. Evaporative Emissions system. That should free up your ports quite a bit.

Though, if your ecu will try to throw evap codes if it can do an evap test. What year is your car?

[420CB7]

its a 1990 EX

[cb7_reverand]

its a 1990 EX

a quick check of the possible factory ecu codes in the manual, and i would say that you can delete the evap system. and the CEL will stay off since there are no evap codes that should turn the light on.

[420CB7]

Sweet thanks for the info

[RagingAsian]

My question is, if you take off all of the vaccum lines, wont you set off the CEL? and the CB will run like shit?

[EJX_Michael]

Lets see...

Do you want cruise control?

Do you have an after market intake?

Do you mind having a CEL on all the time?

Do you care about emissions?

If you say no, yes, no, no, then you can remove all the lines EXCEPT for the lines that run to the valve cover, the line to the brake booster, the line that goes to the MAP sensor, and the line to the fuel pressure regulator.

You will be eliminating the EGR, Cruise, Evap controls/ charcoal canister, the thing in the stock intake tube near the front of the car, auto mount adjuster (automatic only), the air boost valve, and I think thats it for the A4.

Really, it isn't worth disconnecting everything as your CEL will stay on all the time. The only ones I have capped are the intake thingy and the cruise.

Remember though that any line you remove needs to have the vacuum nipple capped. You can find black caps for cheap in the vacuum "T" section at autozone.

Other odds and ends would be the air boost valve, fast idle thermo valve (only if you live in a place thats +50*F year around), and the EGR solenoid. You will have to find or make your own block off plates though.

[420CB7]

Well i i already eliminated cruise control, power steering and A/C. This is going to be a highly modified accord. Im rebuilding the motor and doing a couple other things you'll see as it progresses check it out >>>>>>> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=150166

[cb7_reverand]

Lets see...


Do you mind having a CEL on all the time?

Do you care about emissions?

Not true for a 1990 ex. The ecu first off only stores codes per drive cycle. so they will reset every time you start the car. Next, his car should not even be able to set a light due to the amount of codes the ecu can set, only about 12 codes possible. It has very limited diagnostic capabilities. Next, even if it could diagnosis or detect the absense/malfunction of the emissions system, which it wont be able to.... It would only set a light when it tests the system. Most daily driven cars, driven 10 miles one way to work and back, dont even meet all the specified testing parameters to even begin to test the system. So IF it could test the system, which his car wont be able to, the light would stay off most of the times except for long trips.

But he doesnt have to worry about it since his ecu doesnt have the ability to test the evap emissions system.

[EJX_Michael]

Not true for a 1990 ex. The ecu first off only stores codes per drive cycle. so they will reset every time you start the car. Next, his car should not even be able to set a light due to the amount of codes the ecu can set, only about 12 codes possible. It has very limited diagnostic capabilities. Next, even if it could diagnosis or detect the absense/malfunction of the emissions system, which it wont be able to.... It would only set a light when it tests the system. Most daily driven cars, driven 10 miles one way to work and back, dont even meet all the specified testing parameters to even begin to test the system. So IF it could test the system, which his car wont be able to, the light would stay off most of the times except for long trips.

But he doesnt have to worry about it since his ecu doesnt have the ability to test the evap emissions system.

Really? I didn't know that... I just figured the pt3 and pt6 were the only differences in the ECUs.

Cool!

[420CB7]

And you see this is why i love this website. Got questions?? you get answers.

[Brandoncb7]

As soon as Frootloops gets everything going he's going to be making blockoff plates for the F and H motors. He can make them however you want as far as having recessed screws and I believe he's going to be doing some anodizing in the near future also if you'd like them a different color. They're a steal at the price he's selling them for.