Ignition issues

[crazymikey]

Hi guys. My apologies if this has been covered over and over again. I have been scouring the forums for insight into my problem with some luck, but still not 100% sure.

Anyways, I bought my 1991 SE a couple weeks ago. I knew from the beginning that it had an ignition problem, as the previous owner said that while driving it, it had just randomly stalled while driving along, or sometimes would hesitate while cruising at constant speed, or also hesitate under acceleration. Occasionally the CEL would be triggered, but not all the time.

I began driving the car and didn't have any stalling issues, but I would occasionally get the hesitation, atleast once every time I drove the car.

I have had 2 instances where the car did not want to start (one was a cold day, about -20c, the other was today, about +4c). After a few tries, it would fire up like nothing was wrong.

Today, I replaced my thermostat (unrelated to my ignition problem obviously), but to help get access to the tstat, I removed the distributor cap. I got my work done and put everything back together, started the car and went to go for a drive to see if the new tstat was working. I got as far as the end of my street when it just stalled in the middle of the road doing about 30kmh. I have had it stall on me around 40 and 60kmh as well.

SInce that happened, I have only been able to start the car 3 times, and even then it does not stay running for longer than about 1 minute before it will stall. It cranks over just fine, but obviously has no spark. When I crank it over, the tach needle doesn't even move. I should also mention that while driving, my tach needle would sometimes be all over the place,fluctuating within 2000rpm of the actual engine speed, so I am assuming this is distributor/ignition system related.

So I've broken it down to either I need a new distributor assembly, Ignitor or coil and/or cap & rotor. My dizzy has absolutely no free play in it whatsoever.

I also lost the spring that sticks into the coil inside the distributor cap.

I'm at the point where my car cranks fine, my fuel pump works, the car runs fine when it does start, I'm just not getting any spark. Before I go and spend tons of money on new parts, has anyone had the same or similar symptoms?

From what I've read on here,ignition problems are pretty common on the F22A's.

Thanks for your help. This forum has been a great wealth of knowledge so far!

Mike

[wed3k]

find out what the CEL is for. it might be an icm or coil cel.

check spark plugs.

[crazymikey]

Plugs are good. How can I check the CEL in my garage?

[dano28]

You lost the spring that sticks into the coil inside the distributor cap ???

Is this the spring that presses on the top of the rotor ?? If so, that's your problem.

[cb7greenie]

your gonna have to do it the old fashion way with a paper clip..ufold clip and bend it so that both prongs will fit and stick into the blue connector on the passenger side underneth the dash..once u have that done u stick your key to the on position and see how many times it flashes...there is a code sheet on here somewhere that will tell u how to use the flashes and wat numbers they are

[cb7greenie]

also it could be a fuel problem if your tachometer is doing that you never know...our cars our mysterious..but yeah check the coil and ignitor for sure...when it stalled at ayntime did the tacometer drop to zero and all the dash lights come on ?

heres the code sheet and instructions

Put a paper clip, wire, connector in it to connect the two prongs.

2. Put the key in the ignition, and turn the key 2 clicks to the acc on, where all the lights light up on the dash.

3. You will now watch how many times the CEL light blinks.

a long blink = 10
a short blink = 1
It will repeat after all the codes are done.

4. Compare to this list to see what the problem is:

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

[crazymikey]

Thank you for the info guys.

Yes,I lost the little spring lastnight while working on it It's fallen down into the engine bay somewhere that is not accessible. I figured that would have something to do with it now. I replaced the cap and rotor tonight, and the car did start and ran fine, until I backed onto the street and got 2 houses down and it stalled and will not start, so it's sitting there right now.

After I got the car started when doing the cap and rotor, I floored it and it hesitated at about 3000rpm and stalled. So I am now assuming there is a fuel issue as well. Going to start with the obvious and say fuel filter.

I'm annoyed because I can't afford any of the parts til Friday when I get paid, cuz I am flat broke right now. Getting to and from work this week is going to be fun.

I spent $36 on the cap and rotor. A whole new distributor is $199 and a coil is $117.

Oh and yes, the tach went to zero and all the dash lights came on when it stalled. That's what it does every time.

[crazymikey]

I got my CEL to throw some codes. Both the CEL and Sport mode lights would flash and make a clicking noise.

I was having trouble deciphering the CEL flashes because they seemed to be very dim and inconsistent in their blinks. I couldn't tell what a long or short blink was.

Is the CEL supposed to slowly blink as if it's glowing from dim to brighter and dim again, or does it do an actual on/off blink?

I've got my car to start a couple times and it will idle no problem and you can rev it under 3000, but 3000 and above it just cuts out and stalls. Basically I can't drive the car.

I get paid on Friday and can afford to throw up to $400 in repairs at it if need be.

[philthycb7]

that spring that you lost is a must, that part, if not all your problem. make sure the plastic that holds that spring together is cracked about to fall off. i had the same issue

[crazymikey]

Guess I'll have to see if I can get a spring somewhere then, cuz mine is long gone without some major disassembly of my engine compartment.

So annoyed,cuz I knocked it with my hand while the cap was off. I saw where it fell off and tried to get it but ended up pushing it further in and now it's unreachable.

Fail.

[crazymikey]

I tried a couple different springs today. No luck. Just cranks.

I think I'm just going to go buy a whole distributor assembly and a fuel filter this weekend. This is rediculous trying to figure this shit out right now. I don't have time for it.

[accordkid16]

take off your cap and see if your distributor is a little wiggely..thata might be why you rpms fluctuate like mine

[accordkid16]

mine did the same until i changed fuel filters, and if ur distributor is wiggely youll need a new one(i suggest)..what store can u get one for 199?

[wed3k]

so whats the code?

[crazymikey]

I replaced the cap and rotor. My distributor has no free play, it's tight. Can't wiggle it one bit.

I think I'm just going to buy a coil, new plug wires since mine look original and a fuel filter and see if those net me any results.

It's only Tuesday and it's been a real PITA getting to work and back relying on rides from friends and coworkers.

Honda sells a new coil for $124 CDN, and I can get one at Auto Value for $117. Canadian Tire sells a distributor for $384 CDN and I can get one at Auto Value for $199.