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1992 Accord fuel issue tech help

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    #1

    1992 Accord fuel issue tech help

    I was riding my 1992 accord earlier today. It had been driven at least 300 miles since Saturday morning and had been running great.

    I was coming up to a stop and the car cut off when I pressed in the clutch and allowed the RPM's to fall down. I tried to restart while I was rolling but it wouldn't start. I pulled over and checked the engine compartment to see if it was something obvious. Didn't see anything. I tried to crank it again and it started right up but immediately died. Tried again. Immediately went to 1000rpm and died. It finally cranked and I noticed in my side mirror that a lot of gas vapor was coming out my gas cap.

    I cut the engine off and checked the gas cap. I took it off and put it back on and ensured it was tight. I recranked the car and tried to turn the car around in a 3 point turn. As soon as I tried to put the car in reverse, the car died again. Then wouldn't recrank. I finally got it cranked and held the RPMs over 2K the whole way home. A family member also noticed the fumes coming out the gas cap area while the car was running (but sitting stationary).

    Any ideas on where to start? Thanks in advance.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Most the symptoms sound like they're main relay related. But the gas fumes I've never seen. Warm temperature outside?

    '92 Accord DX

    Comment

      #3
      I actually had a few issues a while back with the car randomly not wanting to crank. It only happened a couple times. It always ended up cranking but didn't fire right up like it usually does.

      And yes, it was 90 degrees F yesterday.

      Comment

        #4
        So regarding the main relay - Could someone explain why the relay could allow the car to crank but not to run? And explain how I can keep the car running at high RPM's?

        If I had to guess, if it were the relay, the issue is because the voltage is not high enough to hold the relay in the ON position at low RPM's. Once the alternator starts kicking out more voltage at higher RPM's, the relay overcomes its brokenness? An explanation would be great if someone could chime in.

        Comment

          #5
          I had nearly the same problem, this is usually fixed by just taking the relay out and resoldering all the joints in it. It takes like 10 minutes of work, and costs maybe 10 cents worth of solder. my car used to crank and crank and crank occasionally before i did this, and it's perfect now. Never had the problem repeat itself.
          Cars:
          91 Accord LX Sedan (sold)
          98 Accord LX Sedan
          95 Eagle Talon TSI AWD (E3 16G, PTE 780cc, Godspeed FMIC)

          Comment

            #6
            Maybe a clogged fuel pump outlet or fuel filter, causing lack of fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Combined with a faulty gas cap on the tank?? causing gas pressure to release through the gas cap. You may have a bad one way check valve in the fuel pump. The check valve normally stops pressure after the fuel pump from backing up to the gas tank. This normally keeps fuel pressure in the fuel line and makes for easier starts.

            just theories.

            I'm just learning about the fuel system today (reading the Helm manual) since I have discovered a gas leak in the tank area.

            You could also have 2 separate problems, one with the relay and the other with a faulty gas cap that doesn't hold pressure.

            Comment

              #7
              i'm pretty sure the fumes you're seeing are not related to you're actual problem. I would say main relay too, except for the fact that u can keep it running with the gas pedal. The first two things i would check would be vacuum leaks, and base idle. There's a diy here about setting base idle. My bet is that you either have a vacuum leak or a faulty idle control valve. Or maybe even both.
              91 EX Coupe 5 Speed
              My Ride Thread

              ASE Certified Master Tech Since 2005

              Originally posted by deevergote
              That's like watching a guy stick his head up his own ass. Impressive... but why?
              Bought From: Quakerjoe , MikeW

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by excoupemt5 View Post
                My bet is that you either have a vacuum leak or a faulty idle control valve. Or maybe even both.
                I'm pretty sure the relay needs to be fixed. That problem has presented itself in the past. I'm with you on the idle control valve. That's the only thing I could think of that would cause the symptoms I described..

                Comment

                  #9
                  The main relay controls the fuel pump. Cranking the car may give it enough power to send a little startup fuel to the engine, but not enough to keep it running.

                  From the sounds of it, it's very likely a fuel issue. Replace or repair that main relay. Even if it's not the problem, it's a common thing to fail... so it's time to replace it anyway. It would also be smart to replace your distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, fuel filter, and even your oxygen sensor.






                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                    The main relay controls the fuel pump.
                    What is everyone's take on repairing the relay by re soldering the connections? I am quite competent in my soldering skills. I am mainly asking what is the likeliness that the problem with the relay is more than just the electrical connection to the PCB.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by ernestmyname View Post
                      What is everyone's take on repairing the relay by re soldering the connections? I am quite competent in my soldering skills. I am mainly asking what is the likeliness that the problem with the relay is more than just the electrical connection to the PCB.

                      Yes, just resolder it, lots of people here have done that and not had any problems afterward. The problem is supposedly mainly due to the connections not to anything else.

                      There's even a DIY about it here someplace I think.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by ernestmyname View Post
                        So regarding the main relay - Could someone explain why the relay could allow the car to crank but not to run? And explain how I can keep the car running at high RPM's?

                        If I had to guess, if it were the relay, the issue is because the voltage is not high enough to hold the relay in the ON position at low RPM's. Once the alternator starts kicking out more voltage at higher RPM's, the relay overcomes its brokenness? An explanation would be great if someone could chime in.
                        Maybe a connection or connections in the main relay that are broken but are so close that the voltage in the system can spark over the air gap, at great cost to efficiency? Good question.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          The majority of main relays fail because the original solder joints crack. The cracks may be invisible without magnification, but they will be responsible for improper function.

                          If you are skilled with soldering such things, and have the proper equipment to do it, then give it a shot. At worst, it won't work, and you will have wasted your time (but hey, you will have practiced your soldering skills... so it's not a total loss!)






                          Comment

                            #14
                            Thanks for the replies, everyone. So I guess I'll get the main relay straight and then go from there if the fuel issue revisits. I'll know something by the end of the weekend.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              So the car is actually 3.5 hours away from me - I went home for Easter and the car broke down as I was leaving town to come back to school. My dad let me borrow a vehicle and I've got to go back and get my honda this weekend.

                              I told him everything that was suggested and told him that I felt the main relay definitely had an issue.

                              He bought a new main relay and replaced it today. He said it runs perfect.

                              Another friend suggested that the leak at the muffler could be heating the fuel tank. So he is putting on a new muffler since the one that is currently on it is broken at the joint that connects it to the pipe.

                              So it looks like it was the main relay. The fuel issue seems to be eliminated with the new relay. But the real test is when I drive is 3.5 hours on the interstate late this weekend..

                              Comment

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