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Alarm Wiring Questions

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    Alarm Wiring Questions

    Im hooking up a python 991..
    I've got a few questions..

    I know you can get to the tach wire from the engine bay.. Or you can also hook up to the wire going in gauge..(remove the bezel and etc etc) There's a brown plug in the drivers foot well on the right side of the steering column.. It contains a blue wire.. By any chance is that usable for tach?

    The alarm has a positive brake shutdown input.. is the wire for the parking brake positive and would it be able to function for the brake shutdown(put the parking brake down.. car turns off..while in remote start mode)

    The alarm produces 200ma for the horn output wire.. This means that there must be a relay before connecting the alarm wire to the horn.. Since the horn is already on a relay could I just connect the 200ma wire to the (insert wire color) wire on the horn relay?
    This is the same question i have for the rear defogger output..


    The alarm also provides a 200ma wire for (-) status output .. This goes to the clutch kill wire.. Is that enough current to trigger the desired effect(clutch kill switch bypass) or does a relay need to be added to this?

    *** UPDATE **
    To properly bypass your clutch you MUST wire a relay..
    87a N/C
    87 1 of your clutch wires(Dont Connect Together With Other Wire Or You Will Waste Your Time And Blow Your Starter Fuse)
    30 The other clutch wire(Dont Connect Together With Other Wire Or You Will Waste Your Time And Blow Your Starter Fuse)
    86 12V Power
    85 (-) Status Output from Alarm(It's dark blue on python 991...viper 5901..clifford 50.7x)

    If did/do this incorrectly like I did.. You will fry the circuit on your alarm brain that controls the status output and the 2nd status output.. Sucks..I know..But you can still get your remote start working by connecting 85 to a ground(wire to a piece of metal..lol) .. This disadvantage of this is that your clutch kill switch is now bypassed at all times.. So you can start the car like you would an auto vehicle.. Maybe you want that.. I dont.. And I dont think our cars are like the other hondas that can just be grounded by hooking up the status output to one of the clutch switch wires.. And your alarm is probably only give you one chance to make a mistake.... If you decide to take the shortcut then you will probably fry your alarm circuit on the first try like me

    Now fuckups can be forgiven.. Due to my error.. I will not be having rear defroster in the winter time.. But I can have my clutch switch work like OEM and have my remote start.. My alarm brain had a (-) 200ma Starter Output.. Which functions like the (-) status output...(for what im trying to use it for) So if you do what I did and substitute the starter output for the status.. Your car will not start unless the clutch is pushed in ,but \ it will also remote start without the clutch pushed in

    If you do not know where the clutch switch is.. IT's located on the clutch pedal.. There are two different plugs on the the clutch pedal.. The one higher up of the two is the one that you want.. You can test this theory by unplugging one of them and then trying to start the car.. WHen the correct one is unplugged.. You will not be able to start the car.. If you have a 10mm Socket available I'd recommend you use it to remove the bolts on the silver box so that you will have more room to work on your switch.
    __________________________________________________ ____________
    If your alarm is like mine..(python 991) If you ground the neutral safety wire to the parking brake wire.. and hook up the alarms pos brake wire to your car brake wire.. Then it'll turn your car off while in remote start mode if the brake is pressed and/or if the parking brake is pushed ddown.

    __________________________________________________ ______________
    THe horn portion of this post.. I haven't done yet.. So I cant answer it.. And if you dont like fucking up your shit.. I'd say use a relay.. I learned from fucking up the first time with the status output.. That shortcuts suck if you fuck up.. Just add the relay.
    Last edited by Samonoske; 05-30-2010, 07:03 PM.

    #2
    Anyone?

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Samonoske View Post
      Im hooking up a python 991..
      I've got a few questions..

      I know you can get to the tach wire from the engine bay.. Or you can also hook up to the wire going in gauge..(remove the bezel and etc etc) There's a brown plug in the drivers foot well on the right side of the steering column.. It contains a blue wire.. By any chance is that usable for tach?

      The alarm has a positive brake shutdown input.. is the wire for the parking brake positive and would it be able to function for the brake shutdown(put the parking brake down.. car turns off..while in remote start mode)

      The alarm produces 200ma for the horn output wire.. This means that there must be a relay before connecting the alarm wire to the horn.. Since the horn is already on a relay could I just connect the 200ma wire to the (insert wire color) wire on the horn relay?
      This is the same question i have for the rear defogger output..

      The alarm also provides a 200ma wire for (-) status output .. This goes to the clutch kill wire.. Is that enough current to trigger the desired effect(clutch kill switch bypass) or does a relay need to be added to this?
      attach the positive brake shutdown to the brake wire. If u hook it up to the parking light it will turn off as soon as its remote started. This wire can also be found in the harness going to the rear in the kick pannel, if you dont want to go up to the switch.

      sometimes you can get away with just tagging the horn wire to the horn system but its not recommended. put a relay, its easy to hook up.

      same thing goes for defogger..which I never hook up and never needed it.

      status out can be directly tagged to the clutch wire. It will enable it, I done it before.

      Just remember, if its in gear it will still start. I recommend you hook up the black white off of the brain to the ebrake if possible.

      you want to do something cool???? Get the alarm red/white wire thats going to be your wire for a momentary output like a trunk. Put it on a relay that shoots a NEGATIVE and then pop out your sunroof switch. Test the wire that shows GROUND when you press open. Tag it to that wire. Now you have a option to open your sunroof on hot days =)

      but you better know darn well to test what I just told you cause its been a bit since I done that, and if you fuk up your car thats your badd
      What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

      You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

      Retro!

      Hater

      I love nooBs...They make me look good

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks accordztech. This helps a lot.. Im going for the wire in the quarter panel.(brake wire) The less wires to the dash the better! And yea for the neutral safety I was gonna work on a type of system that only closes the connection when the shifter is in neutral.. Thinking maybe a magnetic switch.. But haven't quite figured out how i'd make that sit on the shifter.. So it'd basically go black/white wire from the brain to a magnetic switch on the shifter..(that only closes when in neutral).. then a wire from the magnetic switch to the parking brake wire which will only complete the connection when it's up .
        Sadly my car doesn't come with a sunroof haha.. And I hooked up that red/white wire to my trunk actuator already .. But I do have 4 more to use.. I got the dei 530t which I'll wire up after I finish the alarm.. So at least i'll get automagic windows..

        I was thinking of popping out the sunroof switch and use it for footwell lights..lol.. and the console will contain switches for heated seats..and interior door poppers...

        I've removed everything from my car but the dash.. seats.. carpet and rear deck.. Easy access .. Now i've got this dream of Fiber Glassing everything.. Prolly just be smarter to dye the panel.. new carpet on them and call it a day.. But hey. A guy can dream..

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Samonoske View Post
          Thanks accordztech. This helps a lot.. Im going for the wire in the quarter panel.(brake wire) The less wires to the dash the better! And yea for the neutral safety I was gonna work on a type of system that only closes the connection when the shifter is in neutral.. Thinking maybe a magnetic switch.. But haven't quite figured out how i'd make that sit on the shifter.. So it'd basically go black/white wire from the brain to a magnetic switch on the shifter..(that only closes when in neutral).. then a wire from the magnetic switch to the parking brake wire which will only complete the connection when it's up .
          Sadly my car doesn't come with a sunroof haha.. And I hooked up that red/white wire to my trunk actuator already .. But I do have 4 more to use.. I got the dei 530t which I'll wire up after I finish the alarm.. So at least i'll get automagic windows..

          I was thinking of popping out the sunroof switch and use it for footwell lights..lol.. and the console will contain switches for heated seats..and interior door poppers...

          I've removed everything from my car but the dash.. seats.. carpet and rear deck.. Easy access .. Now i've got this dream of Fiber Glassing everything.. Prolly just be smarter to dye the panel.. new carpet on them and call it a day.. But hey. A guy can dream..
          I made a neutral safety with the stick for the manual transmission. It took a bit of thinking.

          what you have to do is make a series circuit. You buy some rare earth magnets and put them around your shifter stick and jb weld them in place.

          Then you create a mount for the reed switches (its easier to buy just the reed itself and not the one that is for windows) to sit on out of ABS plastic. The trickey part of this is, is that you have to cut a hole out for your shifter to move freely but close enough so that the reed switches on the mount will come in range of the magnets.

          It takes a little but once you put the reed switches (i think I used normally closed reed switches) then you hot glue them to the plate. Now with your test light monitor the wire comming off of the switch (of course ground one side of the reed switch) and make sure in every position the car is in gear you get a ground.

          It worked for me but I have to modify the plate that I used. The reason I used earth magnets was so that it doesnt have to be super close to the reed switches.

          This normally closed setup will open the ground to the black/white wire when its in gear preventing it from starting up. when its not in gear the circuit will be closed. and I used this circuit in series to the parking brake.
          What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

          You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

          Retro!

          Hater

          I love nooBs...They make me look good

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by accordztech View Post
            I made a neutral safety with the stick for the manual transmission. It took a bit of thinking.

            what you have to do is make a series circuit. You buy some rare earth magnets and put them around your shifter stick and jb weld them in place.

            Then you create a mount for the reed switches (its easier to buy just the reed itself and not the one that is for windows) to sit on out of ABS plastic. The trickey part of this is, is that you have to cut a hole out for your shifter to move freely but close enough so that the reed switches on the mount will come in range of the magnets.

            It takes a little but once you put the reed switches (i think I used normally closed reed switches) then you hot glue them to the plate. Now with your test light monitor the wire comming off of the switch (of course ground one side of the reed switch) and make sure in every position the car is in gear you get a ground.

            It worked for me but I have to modify the plate that I used. The reason I used earth magnets was so that it doesnt have to be super close to the reed switches.

            This normally closed setup will open the ground to the black/white wire when its in gear preventing it from starting up. when its not in gear the circuit will be closed. and I used this circuit in series to the parking brake.
            Thanks Im def gonna use a system like this!!! It's a lil complicated but It's way better to be safe than sorry..!!1

            Comment


              #7
              U should Of just got a remote start safe alarm lol...dei makes them now.

              But its not hard once you get started. The point is being creative
              What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

              You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

              Retro!

              Hater

              I love nooBs...They make me look good

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by accordztech View Post
                U should Of just got a remote start safe alarm lol...dei makes them now.

                But its not hard once you get started. The point is being creative
                Yea it is remote start safe..lol.. It makes you go through all those CRAZY steps.(they look crazy when you reading them.. prolly a lot more natural when u're doing it..).. I just was wondering about making it work only in neutral... just for the hell of it.. but it really isn't a point.. If I dont half ass the setup.. It'll make me follow all that shit before working lol.. On top of the neutral safety wire it also comes with a switch.. But im just going to leave that next to the brain cause I dont like it...haha... ANd I'll put a switch inbetween the blk/wht neutral safety wire.. So I can just hide it in the console.. And that way I still have the option to lock out remote start completely..

                Comment


                  #9
                  oh the reason it makes you go through those steps is to ensure its in neutral when it shuts down. Its pretty full proof unless someone just goes throught he window without opening the doors and shoves it in gear.

                  Its a really good precaution. And you probably wouldnt need to worry about it in gear. What it does is make you start the remote start sequence before you get out of the car while its running, if the car is running you know its not in gear.

                  Then when you get out of the car and shut the door it arms and enguages remote start ready mode. but if someone where to open the door then it will reset and not work at all.

                  I like it, I installed a few of these as well. Its quite a few steps but then after a few times its like super easy.
                  What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

                  You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

                  Retro!

                  Hater

                  I love nooBs...They make me look good

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Man you're cool haha.. Just thought I should let u kno that... Yep.. So sometime this weeked.. I shall have my alarm 85&#37; hooked up.. It has 3 harnesses.. I hooked up 2(minus a few straggly wires haha..). .The last is the remote start.. I'll do that this weekend.. Then when I feel good enough to shove out the extra pocket cash.. I'll get au9tm (motion sensor) and the 507m tilt sensor.. Then my system is complete..
                    Hmm.. that clutch wire.. Is it only visible after unbolting the cruise control box? And the relays for stuff like the horn are behind it correct? My horn is silent ..lol..No click..and no road runner..

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Id look into your horn circuit. And you should be able to get the horn at the column.

                      The clutch wire you can get it right above the clutch pedal. I think its the harder one to get to.

                      Ditch the motion sensor and just go with the tilt sensor.
                      I know Im cool
                      What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

                      You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

                      Retro!

                      Hater

                      I love nooBs...They make me look good

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Cool.. Im gonna go try and look for that clutch wire when I get home.. I couldn't really identify it when I looked the other day.. and i'll check that horn as well.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I tried hooking up the (-) status output to both of those wire at the clutch switch and still no luck.. When the (-) status output is is connected to the blue wire at the switch it sets the alarm off when the car tries to start.. and the other does nothing

                          Comment


                            #14
                            sets the alarm off????

                            haha you got the blue wires mixed up.

                            There is a blue thicker wire off the main harness (white connector) on the brain, that is the trunk trigger input wire (instant alarm). Then there is another thinner blue wire off of a smaller harness with ( i think) the tach and brake shutdown.

                            you got it backwards.

                            You can also use the blue/white wire, it does the same unless you program defrost then you have to use the blue/white for status and the blue for defrost.

                            off topic: DAMN im Good!

                            also MAKE SURE ITS NOT IN GEAR but to teset if you got the right clutch switch u can easilly ground 1 wire on it and see if it starts, just be sure its not in gear.
                            What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

                            You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

                            Retro!

                            Hater

                            I love nooBs...They make me look good

                            Comment


                              #15
                              That's funny cause the alarm at one point did tell me that it was the trunk trigger.. But I knew that was wrong because the two are not even on the same wiring harness.. And I hooked up the trunk wire ages ago and it's functioning properly.. I did some hard searching..lol. and saw that sonikaccord had the same problem.. So I asked him and he says he had to do this

                              "ahhh that's tricky. None of the wires are ground, and I had to draw out the individual circuit from the haynes to figure it out.

                              Anyway to fix it, you need a SPDT relay to short the CIS wires when the remote start sends the status output signal and leaves the wires disconnected when the status signal is removed.
                              85- batt pos
                              86- status output
                              30- one wire of CIS
                              87- other wire of CIS
                              87a- empty"

                              Lol. But maybe I didn't do something right.. im gonna give the direct connection to the wires one more shot.. if nothing.. then to the relay I go . Ever hooked up the DEI 530T? I got mine.. Just trynna think of the best way to hook it up..lol..

                              Comment

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