car sputtering

[burgandycb7]

mines happens at random really, i can start it up, drive 2 blocks, and it will bogg when im on the gas, then it will go away when its warm, then come back.

its scary, i dont want it to shut off or something.

Does it only bogg or backfires as well? Big constant pops from your muffler at low speed or acceleration from a stop. Sometimes its just little pops but feels like your car is just sitting there rumbling.

[F20A CB7]

bog no back fire

[brian erstad]

mine bogs and backfires it scares the crap out of me when theres heavy traffic.... and my check light comes up once in a while but after it does the car runs fine until i turn it off.... i drove it all the way to north dakota and back to kc with no problems

[Onebaddcb7]

I have been having the same problems with mine will sputter and all of a sudden power just kicks in....sometimes it does it as soon as i start the car on mornings other times i will be after im driving the car for awhile. Im thinking o2 sensor also beacuse i ran the car for like 2 days with out an o2 and it ran fine no sputtering but i will have to do some more research and let you guys know.

[deevergote]

It's the o2 sensor. When the CEL comes on, the ECU is then running in open loop mode... not using o2 sensor feedback. Simply fueling the engine based on a predetermined fuel table. When the CEL is off, the ECU is in closed loop mode, using o2 sensor feedback to optimize the air:fuel ratio.

When the car bogs before the CEL comes on, and then runs fine afterward... that is a CLEAR indication that it is not running properly in closed loop mode. That means your oxygen sensor is bad.


If you want to continue doing research and asking "what's wrong?" that's fine with me. I'm giving you your answer, and it's actually a pretty easy and cheap one.

[Onebaddcb7]

It's the o2 sensor. When the CEL comes on, the ECU is then running in open loop mode... not using o2 sensor feedback. Simply fueling the engine based on a predetermined fuel table. When the CEL is off, the ECU is in closed loop mode, using o2 sensor feedback to optimize the air:fuel ratio.

When the car bogs before the CEL comes on, and then runs fine afterward... that is a CLEAR indication that it is not running properly in closed loop mode. That means your oxygen sensor is bad.


If you want to continue doing research and asking "what's wrong?" that's fine with me. I'm giving you your answer, and it's actually a pretty easy and cheap one.

Alright thanks alot for the help i have an o2 on the way to my house as we speak so problem should be fixed this weekened. Im just changing it because its my last option im not throwing any codes for o2 but my car has like 220k on it an the past owner did do any work to the car so i figured it needs to be changed anyways.

[F20A CB7]

i love cb7tuner, so much help here.

[H.M.]

What about these symptoms:

Runs fine for a while at steady speed then it sputters and sounds like it's gonna die WITH a few backfires but with no CELs?

Then it kicks in and runs fine for a while.

I'm gonna change the fuel filter just to be sure but what about the back fires? Do they signify anything?

[deevergote]

Alright thanks alot for the help i have an o2 on the way to my house as we speak so problem should be fixed this weekened. Im just changing it because its my last option im not throwing any codes for o2 but my car has like 220k on it an the past owner did do any work to the car so i figured it needs to be changed anyways.

If it's throwing code 43, you can call that an o2 code. It's part of the "fuel supply system", since it is used to determine how much fuel should be supplied.

If you want it to be your last option, fine... but it's the primary candidate for your problem.


I like o2 sensor problems. They cause people to replace all sorts of worn-out shit on their car because they refuse to believe it's the o2 sensor!

What about these symptoms:

Runs fine for a while at steady speed then it sputters and sounds like it's gonna die WITH a few backfires but with no CELs?

Then it kicks in and runs fine for a while.

I'm gonna change the fuel filter just to be sure but what about the back fires? Do they signify anything?

Check the condition of your spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires... the backfires are caused by unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust system.

The CEL won't always come on. The o2 sensor is still a good thing to replace if you don't know the age of it. MANY of these bogging issues are o2 related. Also, make sure your CEL actually WORKS. Many people have had their bulb burn out and don't even realize it. If you don't see it come on briefly when you start the car, the bulb is bad. Change it.

[H.M.]

CEL light works.

Sparks, wires, cap and rotor all in good condition. That leaves the Ox sensor, whose age and condition are unknown, as the likely culprit.

Thanks!

[Onebaddcb7]

i figured it was my o2 since i changed my exhaust and looked at it. I was just waiting on my buddy to order it i would rather wait a week and pay $35 than order one for $100+

[H.M.]

I just ordered a Denso from Rockauto for $42 total.

[deevergote]

i figured it was my o2 since i changed my exhaust and looked at it. I was just waiting on my buddy to order it i would rather wait a week and pay $35 than order one for $100+

Just don't get a Bosch sensor. Denso or NTK only. Anything else, and you might as well just send the money to me... it'll be less of a waste!

[Onebaddcb7]

Just don't get a Bosch sensor. Denso or NTK only. Anything else, and you might as well just send the money to me... it'll be less of a waste!

lol oh yea that i know im getting denso thats one thing i know with honda's

[deevergote]

It seems like every time I don't say it... someone gets a Bosch sensor.

Then they refuse to admit that their new sensor doesn't work properly, and they start asking over and over what else they should replace to fix their problem.