I have "obx" header on mine. it leaks at the downpipe like all of them. its pretty well built tough..
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Are EBAY headers that bad?
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if i ever get a cheapo header, ill mod the collector pipe.
ill cut the 1 pipe, which is 2in, and make that to wat ever my dia of my exhaust is, with is 2.25, but honestly, ill just put it at 2.5, into 2.5 muffler pipin.
youll def gain something there with that mod not no bisi gain, but something youll def feel and notice, plus not to mention, nice smoother flow of exhuast gases.**Blk Housed Slut Crew Member #1**
**Don't b scared be prepared for the worst**
Da Drizzle's Sedan - Dr. Diy's Blk Housed Thread
'90 2Tone Coupe-Car Heaven_'89 Lude-Junk Yard
Mostly Usdm, some Jdm,Edm,&Puerto Rican RICE
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Originally posted by Cautrell05 View PostThe flex pipe is the same reason I was considering one. Deev, What are your thoughts on tube size? The general theory for years is that smaller tubes create back pressure and more low end torque at the expense of top end while more freely flowing exhaust gives more top end at the expense of bottom end. Most of the headers listed are 1.75 primary tubes but I have seen a few that were 1.5" diameter.
Myself I would think that 1.75 is a bit large for a motor that falls flat after 5000 stock. For an H22 no prob, but for the F it seems a bit much. Heres why. First off I know chevy small blocks are obsolete dinosaurs compared to hondas but a 300 horse small block for street use is generally reccomended to go with 1 5/8 headers. any larger than that and you tend to loose low end torqu unless its a 400 cid engine or turns lots of rpm. The engine in my streetstock is 360 cid, makes about 450 hp and turns 7100 nightly it has 1 5/8-1 3/4 stepped headers.
Most of you are going "yea so what", im getting to that.
If you run the numbers hears what I came up with.
450 hp/360 45 cid/cylinder 56 HP/cylinder 1 5/8-1 3/4 tube.
300 HP/350 44 cid/cylinder 37 hp/cylinder 1 5/8 generally recomended
140hp 2.2 33 cid/cylinder 35 hp/cylinder 1 3/4?
Could it be that the oversized primary tubes are why most people dont notice much if any HP difference?
The one thing I love about my F22 is that it has way more low end torque than most cars. The last thing I would want to do is loose some by picking the wrong header size.
Nick
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It's quite possible that the larger tube size may result in less usable power... though it's not an angle I've ever considered.
The main reason that the cheap headers don't produce power is that the collector is far too small.
The F22A's exhaust ports are fairly restrictive in stock form, but if modified, the F22A head can outflow an H22. It is one of Honda's most free-flowing designs. A ported head, a good camshaft, and proper breathing will make nice power, even with the relatively low stock compression ratio. Bump that up, and you can top 250whp with an F22A.
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I thought I would chime in on this one again,
Some of you know me a bit more personally, some of you do not, but just as a preface let it be known that I am an avid shooter! With this comes my comparison!
Buying cheap, inexpensive potentially knock off parts is just like buying cheap surplus foreign ammo; its cool to say you have it and use it but would you trust your life with it?
I don't think so, there is no way I am going to trust my life in a potential zombie invasion to some cheaply made steel cased russian manufactured ammunition, why? Because I know quality control is not as high and it is not dependable. If I was just shooting at the range I would not want to run that ammo still because I can't trust it, it may fail, thus taking away from my fun time!
The same goes for your vehicle, its cool to say you have a header but if that header fails you or does jack diddly squat, what is the point? Although the header may work and although it may "function" any failure to perform in my opinion is an overall waste of money!
If you want performance and reliability as well as DURABILITY, go with our header, heck at least you know you have a warranty and customer service behind it!
Questions, comments, concerns, orders?
Randy@Bisimoto.com
PS
Thought I would throw in that zombie reference since Halloween is coming up quick!
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Originally posted by randull View PostI thought I would chime in on this one again,
Some of you know me a bit more personally, some of you do not, but just as a preface let it be known that I am an avid shooter! With this comes my comparison!
Buying cheap, inexpensive potentially knock off parts is just like buying cheap surplus foreign ammo; its cool to say you have it and use it but would you trust your life with it?
I don't think so, there is no way I am going to trust my life in a potential zombie invasion to some cheaply made steel cased russian manufactured ammunition, why? Because I know quality control is not as high and it is not dependable. If I was just shooting at the range I would not want to run that ammo still because I can't trust it, it may fail, thus taking away from my fun time!
The same goes for your vehicle, its cool to say you have a header but if that header fails you or does jack diddly squat, what is the point? Although the header may work and although it may "function" any failure to perform in my opinion is an overall waste of money!
If you want performance and reliability as well as DURABILITY, go with our header, heck at least you know you have a warranty and customer service behind it!
Questions, comments, concerns, orders?
Randy@Bisimoto.com
PS
Thought I would throw in that zombie reference since Halloween is coming up quick!
You could spend $400 on a DC Sports header, $125 on a Burns Stainless merge collector, and whatever it would cost to have that collector added to the header (I've seen welders saying $100-$200 for the labor), and you MIGHT get half of what the Bisimoto header gives you... but you've spent $725 to do it!
BUT, the Bisimoto header isn't inexpensive. The build quality and materials are top notch, as is the EXTENSIVE research and testing done in the development of the design. This is not a piece that you get just because your flex pipe cracked, or just because you want something that looks good (well... it looks absolutely badass, so maybe that WOULD be a good reason... people spend just as much on less functional items, like bumpers and grilles...)
Originally posted by felixr View Posti bought some last year and they only last me a month and they broke by the down pipe so i wouldnt recomend those headers
The problem with this entire thread is that we're assuming all "ebay" headers, as they're being referred to, are the same. Yes, they all use cheap material and manufacturing processes... but I'm fairly certain that they're not all exactly the same quality. Some may last, some may not. That may just depend on who your welder is... I mean, the 12 year old might have a steadier hand than the 8 year old!
We're not discussing a single brand. We are not discussing a single level of quality. The ONLY thing that most of these headers have in common is that they are a basic design that offers relatively no horsepower gain.
The ONLY thing they are good for, other than having something shiny in the engine bay, is for a replacement exhaust manifold... because you can buy 2-3 of these hunks of junk for the cost of one brand new OEM manifold and flex pipe... and most of us either don't plan on having our cars long enough to go through 2-3 of these parts, or (like me) plan on doing serious modifications that include a proper performance header, turbo manifold, etc... instead.
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I got a cheapo knock-off on my car due to the headpipe/flexpipe being full of holes and a good OE style replacement (ie Bosal) at the local parts stores costs over 4x what I ended up paying.The welds are pretty damn good, and the manufacture took the time to clean up the welds and fittings. Flanges seem like they should hold up as well. Could care less about the shiny finish, as the salt this thing will see on the local roads will soon make it look like crap. This is my winter beater, $500 car, so dumping a bunch of cash on the exhaust is pointless to me. Rather spend the cash on trackdays with the bike. If this set-up holds up for a winter or two I'll be plenty happy with it. So I guess you could call this a "good" review about "ebay headers", YMMV.
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Weren't these knock offs made by SSAutochrome if I am not mistaken?
As many ppl have stated. Buy one if you have a flex pipe that is shot cheap fix for a momentary amount of time. If you want performance and looks save up and get it from bisi. These ppl know what they are doing and spend the rime in R&D.
Deuce!
P.S. Nice Zombie reference.
CB7Tuner Resident Gamer!
PSN: JDMcb7TX
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I had the cheapest one known to man.. yes the $29 special.
Like it LOOKED OK, and it worked most of the time, the welds didnt even crack (and beleive me, they had every right to), but it sure didnt make any performance difference and leaked at the 4 to 2 part.. like you couldnt keep a gasket in it for more then a couple weeks.
I wouldnt buy it again.
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Originally posted by slammed4thgendustin, you are a dick!
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