Tachometer goes wacky

[MrSpeedy]

So my problem is this, on idle the rpm meter shows ok about 750rpm, but when i raise my rpm it goes allright about 2000rpm and then it just doesn't follow the real rpm. It bounces up and down but always returns to normal idle when releasing throttle. It started to go off from 5000rpm and otherwise it worked but now it's almost any rpm. I tried to search some answers and found couple, for ex. under the thermostathousing there should be a ground wire but couldn't find one. I do have a pipe thats coming from clutch slave cylinder and that is not attached to the usual place under thermostathousing. So is this somekind of grounding point or not? I just can't recall if the problem was before this. I would like to check all other options before buying new parts.

[deevergote]

Usually, when the tachometer goes crazy, it's a sign of a failing igniter (also frequentlyu called ignition module, or ICM). It is located in your distributor, and is quite easy to change.

The only other thing I could think of would be as you said, a possible grounding issue.

[93GrnMnstr]

Mine was doing that- but would also occasionally shut off- and ended up being the ground wire for the thermostat. We couldn't find the ground wire either so I took it to a Honda only shop and the guy fixed it in less than 10 minutes. Charged me $80 for an hour diagnostic- but it was better than worry about the car shutting off every 15 minutes. I'm pretty sure you have to get under the car to access the ground. The mechanic said mine had gotten stuffed into the transmission somehow.

Good luck

[charles.scarlet]

Believe it or not. When was the last time you got your alernator checked out? and don't kill me for words that are spelled wrong. Take that thing out and got to autozone and have them test it.

[islandhopper]

Alternator Test

Or you can do the quicky test and pull the negative battery cable off while the engine is running....if the engine dies, bad alternator.

If not, then you might want to have someone test it to check the amperage, if your still worried.

[MrSpeedy]

Ok. Problem solved. At least I think. But I took the dist. cap off and cleaned all the metal pins, also I tightened all 4 wires that goes to ignitor. I think its ignitor, but there aren't anywhere else wires so you should know what I mean. I also cleaned all the sparkplug wires. Everything seems normal now. I'm not sure but I think that this is also related to a problem that i've been having, car seems to stall while pressing gas pedal, the motor doesn't go off but it kind of kicks empty. I have to check tomorrow, i'll let you know then. Btw, today was the first time for a long time that I got the tachometer to work like it should. Before I posted this, i was already checking new cap and all the other stuff cause winter is coming and those little things keeps the car going. If it keeps doing this tomorrow then I gotta go under the car and check the ground wire. Well I've tested the alternator less than year ago. I don't think it's that cause i've got some good volts when testing that. So it should be ok. And it should throw some other signs than just the tachometer, IF it would be the alternator. Every electrical thing works just fine so basicly I wouldn't bet on that.

[James Matteu]

Wacky tachy
Car idles fine, then stalls when pressing gas

These are two of the classic signs of a failing Ignition Coil. Measure the resistance across the primary and secondary windings. If either are even slightly out of spec, replace it.

[MrSpeedy]

So, I took the car for a quick spin and everything is now normal. Tacho works and no bogging. It seems that it was just bad connection in the distributor. I still might do the ignition coil test, though it wasn't this. But it's good to know if it's breaking down. Could be at the very moment. But atleast this helped alot,till i get the new dist. cap and other parts. We don't have any of them in Finland. Gotta order from US. Thanks guys for all the help!

[F20A CB7]

happy for you my friend, you fixed the prob.

[accordztech]

Or you can do the quicky test and pull the negative battery cable off while the engine is running....if the engine dies, bad alternator.

If not, then you might want to have someone test it to check the amperage, if your still worried.

^dont do this.

[aleks1215]

I think the almost the same problem all my gauges were going crazy, but i changed the speed sensor and it works now

[deevergote]

Believe it or not. When was the last time you got your alernator checked out? and don't kill me for words that are spelled wrong. Take that thing out and got to autozone and have them test it.

Use a spell check if you can't spell. Don't apologize, or you'll simply get your posts deleted.

Since you're so desperate to be helpful.... why don't you help him find the nearest Autozone in FINLAND. Might be a little difficult. In the future, read a bit before replying.



The part in the distributor that is most likely to cause an erratic tachometer is the igniter, as I said in my first post.

[MrSpeedy]

I think the almost the same problem all my gauges were going crazy, but i changed the speed sensor and it works now

I also thought of that but cause it was only my tachometer then didn't think that would be it. In this case it basicly seems to be couple of choices and those are mentioned at the beginning by Deev. I got lucky cause the wires were just loose/dirty. And to Deev, I also noticed the autozone reference but didn't wan't to mess this thread by starting a fight. I've seen it too many times and the whole thread is then useless.

[deevergote]

Very true.

I just see far too many instances of people not bothering to read the entire thread before trying to "help", and it's frustrating. We just had the same thing happen with a member from Chile (though he didn't say it... I was the one that searched his IP address and mentioned it in a post of my own...)

It seems that cleaning the igniter points fixed your problem, correct? I would still be prepared to buy a new unit, just in case. The old one may be on the way out, and the cleaned connections may just be extending the life a bit. Glad you got it working again!

[MrSpeedy]

Very true.

I just see far too many instances of people not bothering to read the entire thread before trying to "help", and it's frustrating. We just had the same thing happen with a member from Chile (though he didn't say it... I was the one that searched his IP address and mentioned it in a post of my own...)

It seems that cleaning the igniter points fixed your problem, correct? I would still be prepared to buy a new unit, just in case. The old one may be on the way out, and the cleaned connections may just be extending the life a bit. Glad you got it working again!

Yeah, it fixed my problem. Not sure which one of those was it but the new cap and the other stuff is on it's way. I tried to replace it year ago but didn't find one in Finland. And the car ran good then so I left it. Don't have those caps here in Finland so I must order it from abroad. And also i'm very aware of that it may be a first aid but we'll see how long it lasts. But if it starts acting again then it's fast procedure to change the igniter. Thanks!