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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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91 LX Cut-Out when Accelerating
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Could it be the ECU itself ? I had a Chevy Beretta that had very similar problems. Sometimes it would run with no issues nice and strong, other times it would bog when I gave it gas and stall if I didn't give it gas. I replaced every sensor under the hood only to still have the same problems. I finally broke down and went to jy and pulled 3 ECU's, 1 from a vette, 1 from a beretta, and 1 from a corsica. The one from the vette ended up working and the car never gave me another problem. It was nice since I had done everything else trying to get there the car ran like a dream. Maybe just go pull a couple ECU's and try swapping them out to see if it helps....
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I, too and having the same problem. I figured that it was the clutch just how it's been jerking so badly. When you crank your card does it sometimes sound like metal is scraping on something? I'm not sure what that noise is but it when it makes that sound it makes me think i'm out of gas but I'm not.
After reading this thread from front to back, I wouldn't be surprised if it was a fuel related issue but the only thing I could think of are clogged injectors. It sounds like you have done everything but it doesn't seem like anyone thought about the injectors.I know the sea foam coming through the pump might have cleaned it out. I'm about to go out and pull my vaccum hoses and check the tps too so I let you know what I find.
I haven't doen the O2 test yet because I need to go buy a socket. Good luck to you!
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I attempted to calibrate the TPS unsuccessfully. I spent about 2 hours wiggling the TPS back and forth, even removing and reinstalling it, trying to get somewhere close to .45v. The lowest I could get was around 1.3v, which is leading me to believe it may very well be the ECU sending bad information to the rest of the car. Will head to a junkyard as soon as possible. What ECU's should I be looking for? Are any other vehicle ECU's compatible with my A/T 91' LX?Originally posted by A Zombies Minge View PostCould it be the ECU itself ? ..............Maybe just go pull a couple ECU's and try swapping them out to see if it helps....
edit: Forgot to mention that my new distributor arrived in the mail, will get that put on soon.
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PT3 or PT6 from a 90-93 Accord Dx/Lx/Ex/Se or a P12 From a 92-95 Prelude SOriginally posted by sick6sect View PostI attempted to calibrate the TPS unsuccessfully. I spent about 2 hours wiggling the TPS back and forth, even removing and reinstalling it, trying to get somewhere close to .45v. The lowest I could get was around 1.3v, which is leading me to believe it may very well be the ECU sending bad information to the rest of the car. Will head to a junkyard as soon as possible. What ECU's should I be looking for? Are any other vehicle ECU's compatible with my A/T 91' LX?
edit: Forgot to mention that my new distributor arrived in the mail, will get that put on soon.
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Thanks I found this thread at about the same time you responded recommending the P12. But it did not mention the year or model of prelude to pull it from. So I will keep my sites on a A/T 92-95 Prelude S P12 ECU. Wish me luck.
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Yup. Good luck bro! If you didn't know, the lude S has the same motor as the CB. So at the JY if you see a lude, look for the F in the engine bay, then attack that ECU!Originally posted by sick6sect View PostThanks I found this thread at about the same time you responded recommending the P12. But it did not mention the year or model of prelude to pull it from. So I will keep my sites on a A/T 92-95 Prelude S P12 ECU. Wish me luck.
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Got the P12 ecu installed, problem persists. Car idles at 1500 even when idle screw is all the way down. Also while idling, it appears that the engine is occasionally misfiring, so i will pull the plugs and sand off any carbon build up, and recheck the gapping. I need to recheck the TPS to see if the new ECU will allow me to properly adjust it. Also need to put the new distributor on. Have I overlooked something? Should I try to blank off the EGR? Recheck every repair I performed?
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sorry to here no luck,
but as i mentioned this does not sound like an ecu problem.
what brand is your multimeter, some cheaper models can have up to 1 ohm or voltage off what it should be. so it's tricky, you need to figure out what your 0 voltage is and this is a long detailed way to use a multimeter i don't really feel like diving into.
if your ecu light comes on it's simple, something with your emmission controls is wrong,
meaning your injectors are im-properly functioning, your plugs,wires, coil or distributer isn't allowing good spark.
your mixture of both is either to great or to lean.
my tps did what yours is doing. My h22 ran for 6 months with a non funtioning tps, it fell on it's face at 3,000-4,500 rpms, but ran and ideled fine for some reason. I replaced and reset it and the problem went away.
is your cat still on your car?
i forgot.
whats the voltage being sent to your fuel pump?
whats the ohms going to your tps,
have you replaced your plug wires?
it's been so long but does this engine have a cam sensor? i remember the h22 did. if so I'd lookinto checking it to see if it's good. but i'm thinking it's made into the distibuter.... which tells me that could fix your problem, if you reilign it properly.
I use to move my distributer slowly one way or another and mark it untill i got the best performance and gas miliage out of it, too far either direction caused similar issues I'm thinking you have.Last edited by KeeleDesign; 03-10-2011, 09:42 PM."Self Renewed"
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I'm about at the point where the next thing I buy to put on this car is a For Sale sign. I again attempted to calibrate the TPS. I replaced the distributor making special note of the firing order. Pulled all of my plugs to recheck them again (were replaced in December). And then resisted the urge to beat dents into the body of the car, when the above mentioned repairs and checks, only increased the driveability problems of the car.
While calibrating the TPS, I did everything that I could think of to decrease the voltage. I adjusted the idle screw, the throttle pulley, and the throttle cable and still was only able to drop voltage to .574.
While replacing the distributor one of the two teeth broke off during install, so I ended up putting the old one back on.
When I checked the plugs they all had severe carbon deposits on them, so I sanded off the contacts and put them back in. I am unable to get new plugs at this time due to the fact that my car, after the repairs, can only get up to 45mph now.
The problems I have now are very low acceleration and shift points (shifts to 4th gear around 30mph.) Tachometer jumps continuously throughout the range. Thermometer does not work. High idle (1600rpm and I cannot lower screw any more). I loose most of if not all of my power when the transmission shifts gears. I am getting around 17mpg. etc. etc. etc.........
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