check your fan timer under the dash, on the driver side
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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Cooling fans not working at all.
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Originally posted by James Matteu View PostUnplug the one I have highlighted RED in the photos I posted above, stick the paperclip in side with wires coming out.
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'Drifting in 808', my bad, I don't mean to confuse you. The one I want you to jump is behind the distributor and looks like the one I circled in YELLOW. I don't have a pic of the one behind your distributor, and it is not pictured in the photos I posted.
You're right, the one you replaced for your gauge cluster is the BLUE one. The RED one tells your ECU what the coolant temp is.1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp
Originally posted by James MatteuYou have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."
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Engine Coolant Temperature Switch A1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp
Originally posted by James MatteuYou have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."
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I'm confused here. I think you answered your own question though. If it needs to be grounded to work, then it's not grounded Electrical components need a complete circuit to work, sir. Think of it as a circle or continuous loop of flow from power to ground. No ground = no loop = no fan. And know that most insurance companies don't cover fire damage from improper wiring.
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