Has anyone switched from a 4-2-1 to a 4-1 and noticed a sound difference? I have a DC header and I hate it.
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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4-2-1 sound vs 4-1
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RMF header would be nice if you could find one.Originally posted by BRcb7tuner View PostRight now I just have a cat then straight pipe but before I had a magnaflow and it would still get this loud nasty sound from 2.5k to 3.5k rpm it sounds horrible. Does anyone besides bisimoto and kamakaze make a 4-1 header?
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I am currently working on fabricating a four to one header but havent decided on what collector to use i have been looking on jegs and will prabably just buy a cheapo off of there to disect and get the concept of how they are made and just make one myself.

92 LX N/A rust bucket restoration RIP
91 DX Coupe to 9293 EX Coupe restoration
funds for swap:$000.00
Bought from:HondaFan81=My current CB7 DD ,CB7_Sleeper1
Koochologist
Tommi
mtnbikkerkid33
Traded with: Wed3k
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You are correct i'll take back my statementOriginally posted by deevergote View PostRMF only makes H22 headers, and they're knockoff copies of an incomplete Bisimoto design (the guy that owns RMF used to be Bisimoto's fabricator... he stole the design and uses it as his own... I think dishonest people like that should be shot, personally.)
Burns is the best in the market imo. IM currently running a burns setup as well. If cheap is something you want vibrant also makes collector setups.Originally posted by deevergote View PostBurns Stainless makes some of the best. They're not cheap, though. If you're paying to have the welding done, go with quality. If you're doing it yourself, then a cheapie collector would be good... since it won't be as expensive if you mess it up!
http://www.vibrantperformance.com/pressrelease21.php
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It depends on the welder. Could be cheap, could be expensive... I paid $100 to have my traction bar tig welded in 6 places on my car. It was done by a professional welder, in his spare time at home in his driveway. I posted an ad on Craigslist describing what I wanted done, and he contacted me with the price.
A brand new $300 DC header, a $275 Vibrant collector (Burns are half that price, and better, IMO), and a $100+ welding job would put your pieced-together header damn near the price of a Bisimoto header that is pretty much guaranteed to seriously outperform that DC concoction.
I wouldn't bother trying it unless I had a cheap DC header and the ability to do the welding myself.
Honestly though... look at the DC header design:

How are you going to get those 4 pipes to merge into a collector that looks like this:
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Well Mike, It would be near the price of a Bisi if you happenned to get in on the group buy.
I say if you are cutting up a header that much you might as well start from scratch. Get yourself some piping, a 5/16" steel plate to make flanges, pipe bender, welder, drill press, hole saws and drill bits. Maybe a vice if you are not so daring. You should be able to build your own header then. Well worth the experience, valuable tools, and bragging rights. Hell, if you play with it enough and develop a knack for fabricating, it can turn into a very lucrative career.
If youre not up for all that, get a resonator and muffler installed. Thats where all your noise is coming from. I have a Cherry bomb Turbo and resonator connected with 2.5" pipe, sounds pretty good, got some buzz getting on it, since I have no cat. Straight pipe sounds like shit on anything, even your lawn mower.
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