TDC question with timing

[Tdub90]

Ok I'm trying to find the tdc on the fly wheel and there is more than one mark is the a specific one or does it matter? Please help

[theSOB]

Ok I'm trying to find the tdc on the fly wheel and there is more than one mark is the a specific one or does it matter? Please help

its easier to find the mark on the crank pulley. there's a mark that point up. also, if u haven't already, get yourself a chilton's manual for out car

[Tdub90]

Yea that's the only thing I didn't buy. So I don't need to worry about the mark on the fly wheel I have the cam at tdc but it doesn't match with fly wheel. And I haven't seen the crank tdc mark yet. Will both the cam and crank mark be up at the same time?

[kronikally420]

Yea that's the only thing I didn't buy. So I don't need to worry about the mark on the fly wheel I have the cam at tdc but it doesn't match with fly wheel. And I haven't seen the crank tdc mark yet. Will both the cam and crank mark be up at the same time?

When I find TDC, I use my oil dipstick and put it in cylinder 1 (with the spark plug removed) and slowly turn the engine with a ratchet on the crankshaft til the dipstick reaches the top. go backwards, and forwards a bit til you are sure that is TDC.. I prefer something a bit stiffer but DO NOT go apeshit cranking around on your motor with a metal piece scratching the top of your piston (possibly)

take off your distributor cap and make sure the rotor bug is pointing at cyl#1 (follow the plug wire from the driiver side of the car back to the distributor)

if the golden/yellow metal piece that is connected to a black plastic piece that spins is pointing toward #1 cyl (which is close to the radiator)

THEN you have TDC compression stroke

check to make sure the - - marks on the camshaft line up with the SURFACE of the head (not the valve cover. where the valve cover meets)
(REMOVE THE DIPSTICK FROM THE CYLINDER BEFORE PROCEEDING)

tension your belt, turn the engine with a ratchet on the crankshaft one full revolution til you are back to TDC compression stroke again.

Replace the dipstick and make sure its true TDC

if all marks line up accordingly tension your timing belt down and remove your dipstick from the cylinder and turn it one full revolution again (you will be turning it counter clockwise....)

and one last time put your dipstick up there, find TDC, and then you want to make sure every groove is in place
(forget the crank pulley grooves, the dipstick serves that purpose)

reassemble. get you a timing light and adjust the distributor

search for how to do that...you should also set your base idle

EDIT: DO NOT TURN YOUR ENGINE MORE THAN 1/2in EITHER WAY WITH THE DIPSTICK IN THE CYLINDER!!!!!!!

i dont want you to damage your engine...im sure someone else will come on here and tell me why what i said is wrong or dangerous, but it worked for me

alot of times when you set the mechanical timing, it will jump a tooth because of the slack in the belt that has to tension as it rolls around...
so check it after you set it, and then double check it again...

also there should be no hard to turn spots, if so stop turning the engine chances are you have it out of time and something is trying to collide
(take the spark plugs out so you dont confuse compression with collission)


edit2: find TDC compression stroke like i said, and set your cam gear accordingly...with the UP arrow pointing UP and the - - lining up with the surfaces of the head (between valve cover and the head...) sometimes you have to set it a tooth out of time on purpose so when the slack is out of the belt it will be right...but only try this after you try to set it right on as i attempted to post above)

[YK86]

First, download the factory service manual here:
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

It's free and very detailed.

Next, the white mark on the flywheel is TDC. The red mark is for when you set the ignition timing so ignore it. I assume the timing belt and all the stuff is disassembled. Hopefully, you set it to tdc before you disassembled it.

If everything is taken apart, there is usually a dot or an arrow on the lower crank cog and another one on the oil pump/motor at 12 o'clock. Line those up for tdc. The pointer on the engine should be very close to the TDC white mark on the flywheel. The cam gear should have UP at 12 o'clock and also the 2 lines at 9 and 3 o'clock in line with the surface of the cylinder head.

[Tdub90]

Man I feel this is outa my limit of knowledge. But I have no choice but to do it my self. Ok I have the cam where it should be. Ihave not takin the belts off. The marks on the fly wheel have no color. I have no timing gun. If I line every mark where it should be will that be fine. And I'm only using hand tools while in a garage with a dirt/ gravel floor. So if u can get the picture I have no money. So no fancy tools. But like I said if I line all the marks. To tdc should I be ok. And when I go to chaange all the seals. Will every thing stay at tdc.

[YK86]

You won't need any fancy tools like a timing light BUT you will need something to hold the crank pulley (either the crank tool or at the bare minimum, a chain style strap wrench) and a good breaker bar to get the crank bolt out. You'll also need a long punch or something to put through the hole for the front balanceshaft to hold it when you go to loosen the 12mm bolt holding the gear.

Please be careful doing this on a gravel/dirt ground as I have had a car fall off the stands overnight because the ground was not hard/level (I had no choice either at the time).

Did you download the service manual? There's pictures and everything to assist you.

As for the tdc mark, if you use a flashlight, it will say T right by one of the lines. That is TDC. The other marking will have 15 so that's the one you need to ignore.

If you set it to tdc and remove the timing cover, mark the rear balanceshaft cog. That one tends to move after you pull the belt off and the marking they have on the cog is not at 12 o'clock so it's easy to get confused where to set it. All the other ones have clear markings at 12 o'clock to help you set it back to tdc.

[Tdub90]

Ok tahnks for pointing out the t over the mark on the fly wheel mines gone but the other one shows the 15 thanks and yea I'm stuck at the crank pully its hard to get it not to spin and that sucker sure is on there. And no I haven't down loaded the menu yet. I don't have a computer just my girlfriends cell phone. But I did print off a diy from honda forum. Now wehn taking the gears and pulleys off to change seals can I just put the at tdc or the correct spot they are supposed to be

[YK86]

I always take the spark plugs out (to make it easier to spin) and set it to TDC and work on the motor from there. When you take out the seals, you just use a small flathead screwdriver to pry them out so nothing should really move. When I remove the gears, I use a pry bar through the gear or long punch through the hole for the balanceshaft to hold it. The gear may move a bit from tdc but after loosening the bolt, I put it back to tdc.

The crank bolt is on VERY tight and you will need to put it back on just as tight so I would get a long breaker bar for that. Also, you must use a special tool to hold the crank to keep it from spinning.



Or use a chain style strap wrench to wrap around the pulley but be careful you wrap it properly or you'll damage the grooves on the pulley.



Some people suggest using a pry bar to jam the flywheel or putting the car in gear on the ground to keep it from spinning but I've never tried it nor do I really like methods like that.