Whats good everyone! I'm new to the CB7 scene, I picked up a 1993 Honda Accord coupe. I'm starting the build as of August 1, 2011, so far we repaineted the car to the factory color and fixed the ac system. My goals for the car is to daily drive it and occasionally do some track events. I'm thinking of putting a F20b into the vehicle by November. I've read some of the threads on the forum, but just wanted to ask if anyone recommends any other motor for the type of driving I plan to do?
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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Suggestions on motor swap
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Id recommmend and H22. Its about the same power as the F20B, but much, much more common.Originally posted by F20Bman View PostWhats good everyone! I'm new to the CB7 scene, I picked up a 1993 Honda Accord coupe. I'm starting the build as of August 1, 2011, so far we repaineted the car to the factory color and fixed the ac system. My goals for the car is to daily drive it and occasionally do some track events. I'm thinking of putting a F20b into the vehicle by November. I've read some of the threads on the forum, but just wanted to ask if anyone recommends any other motor for the type of driving I plan to do?
Parts are easy to get and theres a huge aftermarket for it.
Theres even detailed guides and lists in the Swaps forum to help you with it.
Also, H22s can be found in OBD1. Im pretty sure all F20Bs are OBD2
Sold to: dbsharp, daheavyking X3
Bought from:'93CB7Ex, xkjnboix, duffmanivxx, remix405, CB7tuner official shop
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Only available in Japan. And if Im not mistaken, the car it could be found in was pretty rare to begin with.
For the H22, on the other hand, can be found in US 4th gen Prelude VTEC and all 5th gen Ludes.
Sold to: dbsharp, daheavyking X3
Bought from:'93CB7Ex, xkjnboix, duffmanivxx, remix405, CB7tuner official shop
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F20B DOHC VTEC---6th gen accord
1997cc
DOHC VTEC (blue valve cover)
200hp/7200rpm for manual tranny (SiR-T)
180hp/7200rpm for auto tranny (SiR)
145tq/6600rpm
8200rpm redline manual (SiR-T) /7800rpm for auto (SiR)
11.0:1 compression ratio
85.0mm bore x 88.0mm stroke
LSD w/ 5 speed tranny
open deck
Similar to the h22a, but destroked to be legal for the 2.0 liter and under classes in the BTCC racing series. It can be tuned to 300hp N/A with enough money, but just seeing one of these swaps is rare. Possibly used a smaller TB on the auto versions with different cams to produce the low end power in lieu of top end power. The manual engines also had F20B specific cams, different than the auto versions, but not used in any other applications. Produced in smaller numbers than the other engines, but still not impossible to find, just a bit pricier. Usually look to spend between $3000 and $3800 for this engine w/ tranny, ecu, etc.
There is also an F20B SOHC that most non-JDM accords got and it only makes 150hp but is still the performance engine for a lot of markets.
The DOHC VTEC F20B is a fun engine nevertheless and since some people are in love with revs, this would be a nice swap.......if you aren't as worried about spending more and getting less as far as hp/tq go when compared with the h22a swap. These engines are better for N/A buildups than FI in stock form, but like any engine, they can be made to fit whatever your budget will allow.
PROS: different, more along the lines of the high revving b series motors than the traditional h and f series of the USDM, designed for racing applications initially from h and f series parts, so most parts are easily located.
CONS: more expensive way to 200 crank hp than a traditional h22a swap, harder to find a package that includes an LSD tranny and even harder to find an auto swap, but other trannies will bolt on from f and h series motors, OBD II (can be converted), peakier powerband but loves to be revved, boosting one of these high compression, open decked babies should be done with EXTREME care and some good tuning.
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JDM H22A and H22A(type s)---4th and 5th gen preludes and some accords
2156cc
JDM H22A (black valve cover) and H22A type-s (red valve cover)
200hp/6800rpm and 220hp/7200rpm
161tq/5500rpm and 163tq/6500rpm
7500rpm and 7500rpm redlines
10.6:1 and 11.0:1 compression ratios
87.0mm bore x 90.7mm stroke
closed deck until the 97+ model years, then they were open
all type s h22a's were 97+
LSD optional and the type s had LSD w/ATTS
The jdm h22a is the most common 4th generation accord motor swap because of it's relatively low price and availability. There are many different versions of these motors but only the USDM has numerical suffixes, i.e., h22a1 or h22a4. Most, if not all the JDM and other markets got the engines that only had the block code of H22A, but they aren't all the same motor and have little things to tell them apart.
The most common variation comes from the 92-96 JDM preludes, but some of the newer non-type s vtec ludes are donors as well, but are also OBD II and are a bit more difficult to swap into our accords since they are OBD I. They were all DOHC VTEC setups with the same design. The prelude type-s, on the other hand, was a step up from the basic h22a design. They offered this trim level starting in 1996 as a 1997 year model. It was similar to our type SH, but more powerful and like most JDM counterparts, a little more refined. It was also available in the accord type r/euro r the same year.
It boasted a ported and polished head for starters, along with higher compression 11.0:1 pistons, increased valve lift on the intake and exhaust side (12.2mm and 11.2mm for the type s vs. 11.5mm and 10.5mm for the regular h22a), and an intake setup remarkably similar to the new AEM CAI v2 design. It also has a 62mm throttle body instead of the 60mm one and an intake manifold that is capable of higher flow, both of which were made of a higher quality aluminum that was finer, more granular and in turn, much smoother.
The cams were designed specifically for this setup too, and are more aggressive than the h22a cams are. All this, in conjunction with valve seat angles changed from 60 to 45 degrees, meant that there was a better burn off response, cooler internals, and much better efficiency. Finally, the header was given larger, truly cylindrical runners whereas the h22a has smaller, oval shaped piping. The catalytic converter was enlarged along with the rest of the pipe in the system and in turn flowed much more freely, almost like an aftermarket system for our cars, but much quieter.....very high quality too.
PROS: half the price of most top shelf honda motors and more powerful than most also, nice torque, plenty of potential in N/A form or FI/n2o setups.
CONS: twice as much as some of the above swaps, but you ARE getting a more powerful motor with more potential and aftermarket support, the type s motor is usually about twice as expensive as the h22a, but you get only 20hp...for the difference, you could easily make 20hp more on an h22a, but it is a more efficient motor from the factory....if you were going down the same road the h22a type s went down, then it would be easier and possibly cheaper to get it and use it as a starting point, but either way is justifiable
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92 F20 Swap
Noob here. I recently bought a 92 EX with a blown headgasket. I planned on putting a K24 in it, but with all the necessary components to convert, it just wasn't worth it. Just this week I ran into a buddy of mine, and decided to buy the F20b he swapped into his 93..less than $200! Sucks he wrapped the car around the rear axles of a Semi, but hey works for me
The motor is in great condition, and since this car will be a daily driver I would like to do this as simply as possible without throwing a money tree at it.
I have done a ton of looking around the different Honda/Accord forums and most of what I can find indicated that the F20b/H22a swap is nearly identical. It is hard to find swap information regarding the F20 without the guide referring you back to a H22 swap guide. Can anyone tell me the small differences in the process between the two swaps?
If possible I would also like information about what ECU's to use, what wiring will need to be altered, etc..
If this information is posted somewhere and the noob just overlooked it, let me know where to find it.
Any help and direction is greatly appreciated as I am a Chevy man at heart, and really only bought this Honda because I cannot deny that they will run FOREVER, and often times you'll lose the body before the drivetrain.
F20Bman, I look forward to your updates!!
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