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ABS Light On but No Code

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    ABS Light On but No Code

    Before anyone flames me, I have read this thread: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...bs+light+codes

    So this is the deal. My wife recently picked up a 93 EX CB9 with an H22 swap in it. The car is throwing a CEL light and ABS light. The CEL light is on at all times while car is running. The ABS light does not come on until the car has been driven a few feet. It appears as though both front axles have been replaced and I was thinking that it may be the reason for the ABS light. Im thinking that they may be missing the ABS sensor rings. I also noticed that the brake pads on the drivers front are extremely low.T

    I jumped the blue diagnosis plug and pulled the CEL codes (code 22) but I get nothing on the ABS light. Does this mean I have a 0-0 code? Is there even a 0-0 code for the cb7? I noticed most codes are listed 94+.

    Thanks
    KDI CUSTOMS-AUTOMOTIVE UPHOLSTERY www.kdicustoms.com


    #2
    Well first off very low brake pads wont throw and ABS (at least nothing I have ever experienced happening) As for the axles you can look at where the axles connect to your brake hub and if the car is equipped with ABS there should be a silver ring around the outside of the shaft (not the main axle shaft but around the metal piece that has the rubber boot connecting to it. (its the best way I know how to describe it) check for that it looks almost like a 1/5 inch thin gear around the edge. It sounds like a pressure problem as you said it takes a little bit to come on after driving.

    Comment


      #3
      i am having this exact problem to the T.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by KDI_CUSTOMS View Post
        Before anyone flames me, I have read this thread: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...bs+light+codes

        So this is the deal. My wife recently picked up a 93 EX CB9 with an H22 swap in it. The car is throwing a CEL light and ABS light. The CEL light is on at all times while car is running. The ABS light does not come on until the car has been driven a few feet. It appears as though both front axles have been replaced and I was thinking that it may be the reason for the ABS light. Im thinking that they may be missing the ABS sensor rings. I also noticed that the brake pads on the drivers front are extremely low.T

        I jumped the blue diagnosis plug and pulled the CEL codes (code 22) but I get nothing on the ABS light. Does this mean I have a 0-0 code? Is there even a 0-0 code for the cb7? I noticed most codes are listed 94+.

        Thanks
        My girls CD5 had this issue, is was because the master cylinder was going bad. The ABS system works off pressure, no pressure, a ABS light comes on. Are you experiencing a squishy brake pedal, or one that goes down father than it should?
        Originally posted by Mishakol129
        Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
          My girls CD5 had this issue, is was because the master cylinder was going bad. The ABS system works off pressure, no pressure, a ABS light comes on. Are you experiencing a squishy brake pedal, or one that goes down father than it should?
          No the abs system is not connected to the master cylinder

          The ABS system would work fine even without any pressure in the normal brake system

          Well sort of. The abs system will actually shut off if the BRAKE lamp is on for more than 30 seconds.

          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkfGG9dfGVQ


          Normally when the ABS light comes on after driving a few feet it means the function test has failed that is preformed when the car reaches a speed above 6mph

          Check the fuses is listed. Maybe when its time for the motor to get power to do its function test it realized there isn't any power to it

          That or the relay is bad.

          Comment


            #6
            I had this problem but no CEL. The abs light wouldnt blink. i just pull my ebrake and drive for 30 seconds and it goes to DX LX brake mode and you can tell cause the pedal is NOTICEABLY more firm.
            frostwhite225@gmail.com =VENMO


            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOB38zJu66o

            [COLOR="Magenta"]

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by xkjnboix View Post
              I had this problem but no CEL. The abs light wouldnt blink. i just pull my ebrake and drive for 30 seconds and it goes to DX LX brake mode and you can tell cause the pedal is NOTICEABLY more firm.
              Knowing how the system works there is no way the pedal will become firmer. The system doesn't do anything when its not being used. The brake fluid travels through the same place regardless of if the system is operable or not.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Tippey764 View Post
                No the abs system is not connected to the master cylinder

                The ABS system would work fine even without any pressure in the normal brake system

                Well sort of. The abs system will actually shut off if the BRAKE lamp is on for more than 30 seconds.

                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkfGG9dfGVQ


                Normally when the ABS light comes on after driving a few feet it means the function test has failed that is preformed when the car reaches a speed above 6mph

                Check the fuses is listed. Maybe when its time for the motor to get power to do its function test it realized there isn't any power to it

                That or the relay is bad.
                I beg to differ...but umm http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/a/def_ABS.htm

                Anti-lock Brake Systems (ABS) operate as follows:
                When the brakes are applied, fluid is forced from the brake master cylinder outlet ports to the HCU inlet ports. This pressure is transmitted through four normally open solenoid valves contained inside the HCU, then through the outlet ports of the HCU to each wheel.
                The primary (rear) circuit of the brake master cylinder feeds the front brakes.
                The secondary (front) circuit of the brake master cylinder feeds the rear brakes.

                If the anti-lock brake control module senses a wheel is about to lock, based on anti-lock brake sensor data, it closes the normally open solenoid valve for that circuit. This prevents any more fluid from entering that circuit.
                The anti-lock brake control module then looks at the anti-lock brake sensor signal from the affected wheel again.
                If that wheel is still decelerating, it opens the solenoid valve for that circuit.
                Once the affected wheel comes back up to speed, the anti-lock brake control module returns the solenoid valves to their normal condition allowing fluid flow to the affected brake.
                The anti-lock brake control module monitors the electromechanical components of the system.
                Malfunction of the anti-lock brake system will cause the anti-lock brake control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power-assisted braking remains.
                Loss of hydraulic fluid in the brake master cylinder will disable the anti-lock system. [li[The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the anti-lock brake control module will perform a preliminary self-check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a three second illumination of the yellow ABS wanting indicator.
                During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.
                Each time the vehicle is driven, as soon as vehicle speed reaches approximately 20 km/h (12 mph), the anti-lock brake control module turns on the pump motor for approximately one-half second. At this time, a mechanical noise may be heard. This is a normal function of the self-check by the anti-lock brake control module.
                When the vehicle speed goes below 20 km/h (12 mph), the ABS turns off.
                Most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system and traction control system, if equipped, will cause the yellow ABS warning indicator to be illuminated.
                Originally posted by Mishakol129
                Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
                  Wow a generic description of how ABS works

                  Did you even watch that video i posted?

                  I clearly state exactly how the system works and why there are 2 separate fluid reservoirs.

                  My description is much more accurate than the link you posted since its specifically for our cars. Honda's system is not like that of which you posted. We have more components

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Tippey764 View Post
                    Wow a generic description of how ABS works

                    Did you even watch that video i posted?

                    I clearly state exactly how the system works and why there are 2 separate fluid reservoirs.

                    My description is much more accurate than the link you posted since its specifically for our cars. Honda's system is not like that of which you posted. We have more components
                    Yes but what Im getting at is that if the master cylinder is bad, ie the orings are going out, there is a pressure loss and that will shut off the abs system.
                    Originally posted by Mishakol129
                    Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
                      Yes but what Im getting at is that if the master cylinder is bad, ie the orings are going out, there is a pressure loss and that will shut off the abs system.
                      There is no pressure switch in the normal brake system

                      The only thing that will shut the ABS down is if the system is low on brake fluid and the brake light is on. Generally the brake fluid is low if there is a loss in pressure because there is a leak in the system.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Tippey764 View Post
                        There is no pressure switch in the normal brake system

                        The only thing that will shut the ABS down is if the system is low on brake fluid and the brake light is on. Generally the brake fluid is low if there is a loss in pressure because there is a leak in the system.
                        But a MC that wont seal properly wont supply the right amount of fluid to the HCU, which IMO would trigger a low fluid signal
                        Originally posted by Mishakol129
                        Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
                          But a MC that wont seal properly wont supply the right amount of fluid to the HCU, which IMO would trigger a low fluid signal
                          Yes...

                          But thats not because of low pressure its because of low fluid. If i wanted to open up the cap and tape the sensor in the upper position so it would think its full it would have no idea it didn't have pressure.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Tippey764 View Post
                            Yes...

                            But thats not because of low pressure its because of low fluid. If i wanted to open up the cap and tape the sensor in the upper position so it would think its full it would have no idea it didn't have pressure.
                            But pressure pushes the fluid thru the reservoir and then to the HCU, less pressure in the MC equates to less fluid being pushed, and a low fluid signal...

                            I guess were playing semantics here
                            Originally posted by Mishakol129
                            Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
                              But pressure pushes the fluid thru the reservoir and then to the HCU, less pressure in the MC equates to less fluid being pushed, and a low fluid signal...

                              I guess were playing semantics here
                              YES!!!!! A LOW FLUID SIGNAL

                              not a low pressure signal

                              Because we don't have pressure switches in the normal braking system

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