F22ax N/a newb questions

[Leung]

less mileage doesn't always mean better. im sure youve seen a lot of the h22as from japan that has all that oil build up and sludge. that is horrible for rings.

Actually i've only seen CPMike's engine when he posted pictures of the sludge in his a year or so ago.

[SOHC-FTW]

But this thread is about the OP's build, not yours... and he included P&P in that build. Once that much is put into the head, risking it would be unwise... both in terms of shaving the head, and in terms of running a stock bottom end that could plant a piston right into it.

It does say P&P but it doesn't specially say hand or CNC. Reguardless if milled or not if the bottom end lets lose in a certain matter to send the piston into the head 9 times outta 10 its completely destroyed anyway. No one needs a forged bottom end to achieve 150whp safely on these engines and IF you manage to sling a piston into the deck of the head at 150 whp with forged or stock you did something wrong in the build/rebuild to start with.

And i know this isn't about my build hence "I know the reasons behind what i'm doing, but this isn't about my build". That is why i suggested a milder mill nor did i suggest anything else because honest you and i both know 95% of these build threads go no where.

[EGstranger]

WOW...

if only my eg forum gave this much debate on every member of its forum that posted. I can not show how much appreciation for the info guys...
Anyway I would be going with a 272 delta, my budget is somewhat unlimited for the first 3 months. It won't be in the car until April ish so I can build at will not worrying about downtime with my dd. I guess 160-170 would be acceptable as long as that came with good torque. My biggest concern with shaving the head I not slapping my valves 5k into the build. As for the pnp I'm experienced in hand pnping as I used to pnp SBC and BBC heads for a living, no worries their.

I know this a bit off topic and wrong forum but can I use the stock f22 mounts for the swap, I saw a couple forums mention something like that.

Btw what are the gain s over delta with bisi scams

Adam

[wed3k]

with .035 milled, delta 272 and no headgasket. i still had sufficient p2v clearance.

[EGstranger]

Did you see a bump in power with the millling?

Do you think the set up above is worth 165 whp? trq?

[deevergote]

If I get a car with a motor in it. Maybe add a camshaft. Then tune it. What kind of power do you think I'll make?

[Joey GT-R]

I'm not very knowledgeable on milling the head. But I'll side with Deev on this one because I would prefer to err on the side of caution. Too much of an investment to risk. I know he doesn't want to dive into the bottom end. But IMHO it's the lesser of the two evils.

JDM F22B pistons will net you a half a point at 9.3:1. Bisimoto Ferrea both carry flat top high comp valves which should bump you around 9.8:1. I can't guarantee what kind of gains you'll get but the torque is what's most valuable.

JDM F20B pistons are also at stock bore for 11.0:1, but I'm not sure as to what rod combo you might need for them as it obviously has a shorter stroke than the F22A.


You can also:

Bore the block to 86mm and use F23A pistons and rods or.....

K20A pistons with the F23A rods I believe is correct. That will put you right at 11.0:1. No milling of the head is going to get gains like a bump in compression like that!


Also, while we're sourcing OEM parts that can pack a punch, you can stroke the motor with a longer crankshaft with the F23A1 or K24A, you just have to machine it to fit the block and match the appropriate rod to the piston. Since you're a domestic guy I figure that would appeal to you. I would definitely recommend the Level 1 Bisi Cam for your build though. There's no comparison.


Just my perspective...I've always wanted to do a DC2 with an F22A in it. Make sure you link us when it's done. Good luck.

[Jarrett]

Dangit Joey, now every newb on this forum is going to want to do a K24 crank without knowing the machine work involved. It's a bit more involved than simply machining it to fit. But yes, it can be done. I would say it's outside of the scope of this build though. The gains he want can be had with factory bottom end dimensions. It just needs some help with compression and new rings.

[TimmyPone]

did he say eg if so id just stick to a gsr swap will give you what you want stock and alot less hassle putting it in

[Joey GT-R]

Dangit Joey, now every newb on this forum is going to want to do a K24 crank without knowing the machine work involved. It's a bit more involved than simply machining it to fit. But yes, it can be done. I would say it's outside of the scope of this build though. The gains he want can be had with factory bottom end dimensions. It just needs some help with compression and new rings.

I know that; I know it's a bit more than machining it to fit, but there's no need in writing a whole page's worth unless he's seriously interested in doing it. Hell I don't even know myself if I have every i dotted and every t crossed. But on my next go around the block it's something I do plan to do along with a write-up. wed3k probably would correct me though on the process if I was wrong; it's more his neck of the woods.

[EGstranger]

So I would put a gsr... but every one swaps in a gsr! and considering I can get an f22ax for under 200 dollars and the swap costs me another 200 .. plus maybe another 300 for parts giving me a 150 ish whp for probably around 1000 dollars. SO Im an anti-B series Fanboy. That is why I came to a cb7 forum and not a disgusting hond-tech ish forum.

Going back to the original point. 272 delta vs bisi level 1 =?

[EGstranger]

Also , I have seen all the work people have done with boring the block out to fit k20/f23 pistons but how reliable is that on a low mileage block ?

[SOHC-FTW]

The 272 is a good cam period, check out my cam thread in performance tech section for info on F22 cams. The difference is the 272 is generic and is great for topend as where the bisi lvl 2 has more R&D behind it and better throughout the power band. I've ran two 272's and love them they pull great up above 4k and the price is great.

I wouldn't waste my time with a lvl 1 the 272 requires no valve train the lvl 2 recommends it, but plenty have ran without it.

You're going to need a tune either way.

[EGstranger]

Est. on the cost of the k24+k20 pistons build? Doesnt sound terribly difficult and or expensive?

[SOHC-FTW]

Either k20a3 pistons or k20a2 are the easiest to find.K20a3 will give you compression in the 10s, as the A2's IIRC will be close to 11.5.1.

Brand new and while you're at it install some ARP rod bolts i'd say around $500-600 give or take.But if you are plaining on doing this then i'd go ahead and up grade the valve train aswell so you can get the full benift out of the setup. Even cheap alternatives will get costly if done right.