Is it worth it for me to relocate the battery to the trunk so I could use a longer cold air intake closer to where the stock air box is located? I just got everything up and running after swapping in an h22 and haven't taken it out but I feel like its just cramped in there by the battery.
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Last edited by Loghead; 03-13-2012, 02:25 AM.1991 Accord LX Coupe H22 Swap (Sold)
1993 Accord EX Sedan (Curent Project)
2003 Civic SI Hatch (Sold)
2003 Pontiac Grand Am ("In a Better Place")
2004 GMC Envoy (The Daily that won't die) Currently at 380k shooting for 400k -
relocating the battery helps balance the car out with weight transfer (as minimal as it may be) its also visually pleasing and wiring kits can be had from junkyards from various european cars hell even newer tbirds have battery in the trunk so as long as your connections are good you cant lose
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=187851
sold to: cb7rush\h22-accord\Luis\BurtonRiderT6
bought from:jokerxfn-tommi-'93cb7ex -
You won't see any performance benefit. You can also run a proper cold air intake with the battery in place.
Relocate the battery if you wish, just be careful with wiring. If you don't wire it correctly, you could experience some electrical nightmares.
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and for the love of god DO NOT RUN THE POWER CABLE THRU THE DAMN DOOR, GO THRU THE FIREWALL.Originally posted by deevergote View PostYou won't see any performance benefit. You can also run a proper cold air intake with the battery in place.
Relocate the battery if you wish, just be careful with wiring. If you don't wire it correctly, you could experience some electrical nightmares.
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It's truly sad that something like that would even need to be said... but some people really ARE that dumb/lazy!
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haha no worries with running it through the door lol I've had to fix far too many friends stereos that they "thought it would be just fine" another question pertaining to the relocation: will i need a high output alternator or will i be fine with the stock one? and it wasn't so much about performance per say, more that with the intake i have now it just seems squished by the battery which would lead me to believe that it could get better air flow without the battery there taking up space
1991 Accord LX Coupe H22 Swap (Sold)
1993 Accord EX Sedan (Curent Project)
2003 Civic SI Hatch (Sold)
2003 Pontiac Grand Am ("In a Better Place")
2004 GMC Envoy (The Daily that won't die) Currently at 380k shooting for 400kComment
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"per se". It's Latin.
Anyway, the intake (which is assume is a short ram, not a cold air, if the battery is near the filter...) is getting plenty of airflow. The battery isn't restricting any airflow whatsoever.
And no, you shouldn't need an upgraded alternator if you move the battery. It wouldn't hurt, but I don't believe it's necessary.
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ok thank you that's good to know. now i can get back to more important things like putting in a whole new exhaust lol
1991 Accord LX Coupe H22 Swap (Sold)
1993 Accord EX Sedan (Curent Project)
2003 Civic SI Hatch (Sold)
2003 Pontiac Grand Am ("In a Better Place")
2004 GMC Envoy (The Daily that won't die) Currently at 380k shooting for 400kComment
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Deev:Originally posted by deevergote View Post
Teaching Latin via a pet peeve since 2003.
I have one suggestion on the battery relocation. In my younger days with one of my previous Accords I relocated the battery to the trunk and just bolted it to a plywood board I cut out using the factory cardboard as a template. With the trunk leaking issues our cars are so accustomed to, this didn't end well for the plywood. If you want to go incredibly over the top I would suggest a wagon compartment because it would be a solid plastic surface to mount the battery on. If not then at the very least research some of the fixes to prevent leaks in the trunk. This will ensure a long life for your battery and whatever surface you choose to mount it on.
Also, I'm trying to wrap my mind around how one would route a cable from under the engine compartment into the door jamb. I'm sure it's possible, but nowhere in my frame of understanding do I feel like it would be less effort than going through the firewall.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!Comment
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i relocated mine to the trunk in my cd5, havent gotten to the cb7 yet, but what i did was welded a bracket with studs the the floor that bolted to an alluminum batter box i fabbed up. Now stuck with a plastic batt box due to leaky battery corroding the shit outta the box. o and alt was just fine no issues. And dont use some small vagina wire, use big all the way back. GLComment
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Using a sealed-cell battery, like an Optima, would be the best choice when relocating the battery anywhere but the engine bay.
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Don't batteries release some kind of obnoxious gas with the exception of the sealed ones of course...Originally posted by deevergote View Post
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I don't really think it's necessary at all. No performance advantages and potential problems with all that's been listed above. I guess the only real reason to do it would be for looks. It's up to you, but I think the con's outweigh the pro's on this one.Comment
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Originally posted by deevergote View Post It's truly sad that something like that would even need to be said... but some people really ARE that dumb/lazy!
No shit right? People often turbo their cars and go through all this workl to NOT route the air filter where it should be. Instead they bolt on a undersized air filter to the turbos compressor wheel, or worse yet, hose clamp a piece of chicken wire over its opening.
When all they need to do is some piping work and drop that filter where a "SRI" would sit by the batt. Where its Not picking up hot air from the intercooler/radiator/power steering fluid cooler.
Relocating the battery is easy though. However you should know about electricity, voltage drop and how to FUSE your car correctly.Comment
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