which vaccum hose do i put seafoam in
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i want to use seafoam
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http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...hlight=seafoam
Here you go man . This is a great read about the usage of the product . Wish I could help more but here is a starting point .

A man that keeps looking back can't see whats in front of him.
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booster hose,
3ed of the can through the hose, turn car off add to gas tank and crank case.
when adding to the booster hose rev car a little while doing it. i love seafoam! let it sit for like 30 min, i think it says 15 but 30 is fine and allows for more time to sit and soak.Accord SE

93se
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He does it in every Seafoam thread, I'll keep an eye on this one, it's getting old.Originally posted by GeTsOmE 5588 View Postcmhondaboy this is very true but i figured he would say something since the thread that i was already givin he blew it up how he felt about itOriginally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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take apart an intake manifold and let seafoam sit in there for a few mins then drain it away. You'll see that it doesnt do a real good job. Also that it cannot clean off carbon deposits.Originally posted by Stormtrooper View PostReason?
The only successful additive at cleaning such deposits that many people believe seafoam does clean is Polyether Amine or PEA for short.
This is found in top fuel cleaning additives such as redline's amsoils, techron concentrate, and various gumout products. with high mileage "regane" being the best of their line (if i recall correctly) BG44k used to be one of the best and has since changed their formulation,and is not worth what they charge.
B12 chemtool is better than seafoam at cleaning things, better than that is carb and choke cleaner, If you really want something clean use that shit, it eats away almost everything.
Id recomend that if you use B12 in the gas tank follow it up each time with some marvel mystery oil. If you don't believe in that stuff, just spill some on some plastic, like your car keys or automatic door lock remote, It'll permeate in there and shine/slick that SOB up for a long time.
IMO B12 for cleaning injectors, and a additive with PEA for injectors and combustion chambers, and using MMO is cheaper than lucas. Personally I hate lucas oil, and believe it to pretty much AL be trash. They remind me of "redbull energy drink" theres a lot of better more potent energy drinks out there but redbull is one everyone knows- Excellent marketing, thats why, not because its a superior product.
Research everything you put in your car, don't just take anyones word for it. even mine. Go find out WHY im giving you this advice. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ "BITOG" is a good start with well informed people. Don't just ask though. READ.
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The shop across the street from me recommends MOA, ever heard of it?Originally posted by MortsAccord View Posttake apart an intake manifold and let seafoam sit in there for a few mins then drain it away. You'll see that it doesnt do a real good job. Also that it cannot clean off carbon deposits.
The only successful additive at cleaning such deposits that many people believe seafoam does clean is Polyether Amine or PEA for short.
This is found in top fuel cleaning additives such as redline's amsoils, techron concentrate, and various gumout products. with high mileage "regane" being the best of their line (if i recall correctly) BG44k used to be one of the best and has since changed their formulation,and is not worth what they charge.
B12 chemtool is better than seafoam at cleaning things, better than that is carb and choke cleaner, If you really want something clean use that shit, it eats away almost everything.
Id recomend that if you use B12 in the gas tank follow it up each time with some marvel mystery oil. If you don't believe in that stuff, just spill some on some plastic, like your car keys or automatic door lock remote, It'll permeate in there and shine/slick that SOB up for a long time.
IMO B12 for cleaning injectors, and a additive with PEA for injectors and combustion chambers, and using MMO is cheaper than lucas. Personally I hate lucas oil, and believe it to pretty much AL be trash. They remind me of "redbull energy drink" theres a lot of better more potent energy drinks out there but redbull is one everyone knows- Excellent marketing, thats why, not because its a superior product.
Research everything you put in your car, don't just take anyones word for it. even mine. Go find out WHY im giving you this advice. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ "BITOG" is a good start with well informed people. Don't just ask though. READ.Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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A quick search points me to BG (like bg44k) its another one of their additives, its got ALOT of calcium, so much in fact that its TBN number is 32.xx where a 15k engine oils TBN is 9-12 or so. It also has a lot of zinc and phosphorus in it. which is a great anti wear additive for oil, however they aren't so good for catalytic converters, which is why when they started removing ZINC (zddp) back in the late 60's to mid 70's engine lonjevity took a huge nose dive. flat tappets NEED zinc. without it thye just wear out fast. granted there are some engine oils that can do it without zinc but even a shitty oil with descent zinc will stomp a good synthetic that has no zinc for flat tappets.Originally posted by dj_ender View PostThe shop across the street from me recommends MOA, ever heard of it?
That stuff is also very thick and probably increases the viscosity of the engine oil you have. I would believe it to be designed for 4-5 quart systems.
VOA's(virgin oil analysis) of particular lubricants are a very good thing to start researching when choosing lubricatns for your specific needs.
Check the stats on that stuff here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=903883
I think its probably just better to step up 1 grade of oil. to a 10/15 W40. it also depends on your environment. you can use 50W oil in hondas and many other engines if its going to be constantly 100+. but you definately wouldnt want to run 50 weight in a new engine in the winter. the tolerances haven't widened up enough for that thick of an oil, and it could result in 1 of 2 things, starvation, or excessive oil pressures which would/could cause oil leaks. Thats why DSM kiddos fubar their stock engines with 70-100k on them. they stick 20w50 in them year round, and often make their main seals leak. which probably also adds to the crankwalk issues they have.Last edited by MortsAccord; 06-20-2012, 11:56 PM.
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