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    #1

    Problems starting

    Not really sure how to explain this.. And it seems to be very random..

    When i go to start the car it seems as though the battery is about to die. But if i just hold the key in the crank position, it eventually comes back to life and cranks.. Slowly.. Usually takes about 45 seconds to a Minute to crank when this happens.

    My first thought was a bad battery, but if it was the battery i would loose power to all the things, not just the starter.. So, i am thinking its the starter.. I am gonna go to the 'yard in the morning and yank one off and see if it remedies the problem. Fingers crossed.


    Also, i noticed today that my power windows still had power to them with the key off and removed.. Is that normal? i know on my Neon, i would have to at least turn the key to the "acc" position to get power to the windows and things..
    Tags: None
    #2
    that sounds like a alternator problem what u could do is when u start the car disconnect the negative terminal of the battery if your car turn off the alternator is bad and for the windows thats normal

    Comment

      #3
      hey, thanks.. i'll do that test in the morning before i go to the 'yard.

      thanks.

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by 92accordkidd View Post
        that sounds like a alternator problem what u could do is when u start the car disconnect the negative terminal of the battery if your car turn off the alternator is bad and for the windows thats normal
        Don't do that. If your alternator is not bad it will be after that. The voltage regulator will fry. The best thing you can do is charge the battery start the car .use a volt ohm meator and see if you have 13 to 14 volts at the posatave poste on the battery. If you do the alt is good if not .... you get the idea.

        IT IS WHAT IT IS

        Comment

          #5
          ok, thanks.. i'll take the advice from teh guy with the nicer car in his sig pic.

          That is something i can have the guys a autostore like PepBoys do right? I dont have an Ohm meter..

          Comment

            #6
            Well, i took it to a local auto store, but the guy said the machine was busted, but performed the test anyways.. It said the battery was good, and it had good crank, but it told him that the Diode was open.. He didnt know what that meant.. and neither do I.

            I took it to a second auto store, and they pluged their tool up to the battery and said the battery was no good.. I didnt believe him so i went and bought a multimeter.

            The battery has good voltage (12.6), and there is plenty of voltage when cranked (13.7 iirc).. but as soon as i put a load (mainly the AC) the voltage drops back down to 12.6.. I was reading up on it and I read that if there is a load on the Alternator the voltage will drop, but should stay ~.5 volts above where it started (before starting the motor)

            It still has good volts, but is low under load.. So i am not 100% that its the alternator.. And i also read that if the motor still cranks its not the starter. So, i am completely stumped on this one.

            Comment

              #7
              Your cranking voltage is more than open circuit battery voltage?
              A&P-IA

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by oyajicool View Post
                Your cranking voltage is more than open circuit battery voltage?
                with the engine running it is about 13.7.. totally normal, but when i put a load on it with headlights, radio, AC, ect. it drops back to 12.6.. which is an excessive voltage drop. It should stay at about 12.9-13volts. If i did my studies correctly..

                Comment

                  #9
                  It's your alternator. Even with all of the accessories on, the voltage drops but should recover to over 14V. Do this, rev up the car to see if the voltage increase to above 14V. If it does, it might be a loose belt or a bad belt when you put a load on, not only on the battery but also on the belt. It seems like your alternator bud. As for the battery, it's the cranking amps that matters not the voltage when testing. Voltage might be good but battery could still be bad.
                  If your car has a computer, never ever ever pull the battery when the car is running. The battery is used as a buffer to the computer. Pulling the battery will spike the system and could fry the computer.
                  If the auto store test your alternator and says the diodes are bad, then you need to replace the whole alternator. If not, you could just replace the brushes and your alternator is good as almost new. It can be done without removing the alternator. Here's a link that will help you. The brush kit is no more than $13.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    What you are saying there is "charging voltage".
                    Charging voltage should stay between 13.75 to 14.25 with loads. 12.6 is NG.
                    Make sure all electrical connections are in good shape first.
                    If charging voltage is still low, faulty alternator is suspect.
                    A&P-IA

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Hey, thanks for chiming in. I suspected the alternator but was not 100%.. I'll go ahead and get an alternator when i get a chance, and i will report back with whether or not it resolved the issue.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Bad_dude View Post
                        It's your alternator. Even with all of the accessories on, the voltage drops but should recover to over 14V. Do this, rev up the car to see if the voltage increase to above 14V. If it does, it might be a loose belt or a bad belt when you put a load on, not only on the battery but also on the belt. It seems like your alternator bud. As for the battery, it's the cranking amps that matters not the voltage when testing. Voltage might be good but battery could still be bad.
                        If your car has a computer, never ever ever pull the battery when the car is running. The battery is used as a buffer to the computer. Pulling the battery will spike the system and could fry the computer.
                        If the auto store test your alternator and says the diodes are bad, then you need to replace the whole alternator. If not, you could just replace the brushes and your alternator is good as almost new. It can be done without removing the alternator. Here's a link that will help you. The brush kit is no more than $13.
                        I agree . 12.6 volts with a load is not good. something to think about to if your car battery dies for what ever reason and you need a jump, let the other car charge your battery for about 10 min or so before you start your car. a dead battery can over load the alternator and blow the regulator to.

                        IT IS WHAT IT IS

                        Comment

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