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Bad battery = instrument cluster problems?

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    #1

    Bad battery = instrument cluster problems?

    So, the battery in my 1990 LX is over 5 years old and pretty much done. Today I went out to start it and it cranked slowly for a split second, then it just clicked. Okay, no big deal, so I tried jumping it off and it started fine, but my tachmeter and speedometer were both "dead". When I accelerate, they seem to work fine but I take my foot off the gas and put it in neutral they fall down to zero. Is it just my crappy battery or did I fry something when I jumped it off? I'd like to think I'm capable of jumping off a car without causing catastrophic damage, but hey, accidents happen. I'm 99% sure it's just my battery (since I'm pretty sure my gauges are all electronically controlled, right?) but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask on here and get a second opinion, I don't entirely trust myself when it comes to electrical issues.
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    #2
    Originally posted by lx5speed View Post
    So, the battery in my 1990 LX is over 5 years old and pretty much done. Today I went out to start it and it cranked slowly for a split second, then it just clicked. Okay, no big deal, so I tried jumping it off and it started fine, but my tachmeter and speedometer were both "dead". When I accelerate, they seem to work fine but I take my foot off the gas and put it in neutral they fall down to zero. Is it just my crappy battery or did I fry something when I jumped it off? I'd like to think I'm capable of jumping off a car without causing catastrophic damage, but hey, accidents happen. I'm 99% sure it's just my battery (since I'm pretty sure my gauges are all electronically controlled, right?) but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask on here and get a second opinion, I don't entirely trust myself when it comes to electrical issues.
    most likely its your battery bro some how its not holding a charge while driving so everything dies out

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      #3
      Originally posted by pupildel View Post
      most likely its your battery bro some how its not holding a charge while driving so everything dies out
      i disagree. i drove my car to walmart without a battery once because my dad was being a dick. the car would not idle but it ran fine.

      i would bet the cluster died along with the battery which does happen or, you blew a fuse. i would check the latter.

      OP: is your battery light on? does the lights on your cluster even light up when you turn the key?
      visit vgruk

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        #4
        Originally posted by RyanD View Post
        i disagree. i drove my car to walmart without a battery once because my dad was being a dick. the car would not idle but it ran fine.

        i would bet the cluster died along with the battery which does happen or, you blew a fuse. i would check the latter.

        OP: is your battery light on? does the lights on your cluster even light up when you turn the key?
        yea thats what i meant the car will still drive but if the battery is dead the cluster wont work right but still drive that is until your battery dies and fuel pump stops working it happen to me a few days ago my alternator die on me

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          #5
          I think regardless of whether or not the battery is the cause of the failure, you should replace it anyways because you need it to start the car. It could very easily fix your gremlin, if not check your alternator. I almost always start with checking the battery and alternator before diving into fixing a strange electrical issue, weird voltage can cause all sorts of odd problems.

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            #6
            Check your battery grounds also...

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              #7
              And don't buy a cheap battery... Save you money in the long run..

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                #8
                I exclusively run WalMart batteries since the 90s. never had a issue, not 1.

                As far as the instrument cluster, check your ground wires on your T stat housing. Have you done any work in that area of the motor recently? A messed up charging system/bad battery could also cause weird elec issues as mentioned above, fix that issue first.

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                  #9
                  I would try to invest in an Optima Gel battery. Yes they are a little bit more pricey but comes with a warranty and also last for ever. Had a red top on my focus(YES DONT JUDGE ME) when my alternator failed while driving. Still made it home 50 miles later in rush hour traffic.


                  Live Life to the Fullest

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                    #10
                    Well, I replaced the battery and all is well, no instrument panel issues at all. Starts up great now, turns over surprisingly fast. And I agree, the Wal-Mart batteries are not bad at all. I work at Advance Auto Parts and I still got the Everstart Maxx from Wally World... $40 cheaper than the Autocraft Gold we sell, but has the same 3 year warranty. Even with a 10% employee discount it's a no-brainer.

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                      #11
                      Your battery isn't keeping a charge and most probably killing your alternator,.check for battery light. Once the cluster fails to emit signal it isn't getting enough power

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Ely585 View Post
                        Check your battery grounds also...
                        This. The biggest cause of electrical gremlins in these older chassis's are corroded grounds. Even though your battery may have kicked the bucket, even a new battery is useless without good grounds. Fortunately for you, most grounds of the electrical harness are bundled together which makes it less time-consuming to check. After any signs of intermittent electrical issues, I would give all the ground eyelets and bolts I could find a good scrubbing with a wire brush to knock off any oxidation.

                        10.2:1 F-series, 417whp, 398lb/ft Single-Cam on pump gas

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