Cheapest OBDI conversion

[Andrewasoar]

Hey everyone, I have a freshly rebuilt H22A4 that I picked up for $1200. Now I know I have to convert it to OBDI to run it in my car. Now I saw in a MR thread about a nearly free OBDI conversion. I was wondering if anyone had a write up for it because I've searched and searched and came up empty handed (not just on CB7tuner either). Now from what I've gathered I need an ECU (obviously) I need an OBDI H22 distributor and its parts I need a harness fuel injectors and I think that's it. I work along side my mechanic whom I've bought the motor from and will be helping me put it in. Now my problem is money. I only have so much and won't be able to afford all the parts I need and desperately need the vehicle on the road. I can afford headers the ECU and harness. I read that the internals of my distributor from my F can be used on an OBDI cap and will work just fine, however I have no conformation on that. For injectors I'll be using the ones from my F in which my mechanic said will work. But please if anyone has any type of write up on using the F distributor internals and just an all around cheap way to convert this engine please can you point me in the right direction? Because I can't seem to find anything that's been useful. Thank you.

[Scoot]

I found this and I just copied it. It was originally posted by Jarrett.



The methods that will apply to you are the same as the methods given to seemingly hundreds of other people that have posed similars questions previously that you were too lazy to search for.

In short, the OBD2 H22A/F20B/H23A VTEC will work just fine in an OBD1 vehicle. There are ghetto-rigged workarounds to make some of the OBD2 components work but it's much easier and of an OEM-like quality to obtain necessary OBD1 parts.

You'll need (OBD1 parts):
H22/H23 distributor (USDM if you have a '92-'93, JDM if you have a '90-'91)
H22A injectors
H22A upper plenum
P13 ECU

Use your Accord engine harness and adapt the wiring as necessary. Use the Accord fuel rail on the H22A injectors. You'll either want to use an H22A fuel pressure regulator or get an aftermarket adjustable one.

Again, this information litters the swap section of this site. You just have to actually search for it instead of being lazy.


Hope this helps you.

[Andrewasoar]

I found this and I just copied it. It was originally posted by Jarrett.



The methods that will apply to you are the same as the methods given to seemingly hundreds of other people that have posed similars questions previously that you were too lazy to search for.

In short, the OBD2 H22A/F20B/H23A VTEC will work just fine in an OBD1 vehicle. There are ghetto-rigged workarounds to make some of the OBD2 components work but it's much easier and of an OEM-like quality to obtain necessary OBD1 parts.

You'll need (OBD1 parts):
H22/H23 distributor (USDM if you have a '92-'93, JDM if you have a '90-'91)
H22A injectors
H22A upper plenum
P13 ECU

Use your Accord engine harness and adapt the wiring as necessary. Use the Accord fuel rail on the H22A injectors. You'll either want to use an H22A fuel pressure regulator or get an aftermarket adjustable one.

Again, this information litters the swap section of this site. You just have to actually search for it instead of being lazy.


Hope this helps you.

But none of this answers my question. I know what I need to get I am able to get most of the parts. And if you'd like you could look at Marcusv8thunder's MR thread and see that Jarett posted about a nearly free conversion. I was simply wondering about using the internals from my F22 distributor. I'm also using a chipped P28 ECU I'm using injectors from my F22 and an H22 Plenum.

I wasn't lazy with my searching, I simply came up empty handed with the information I'm seeking.

[Jarrett]

Follow the principles outlined in this thread to get your distributor working. It will allow you to use your OEM F22A harness without any adapters to the distributor harness.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=190946

As for the injectors, do not use your F22A injectors. They are not rated highly enough for duty in the H22A. You need H22A injectors. If the engine you bought came with them, then you'll need to delete your resistor box. There are DIY guides on here for that or you can buy a "delete plug" off of eBay.


A word of advice next time you begin an engine swap, though. If you're short on cash and you need the car for transportation, avoid engine swaps like the plague.

[bobbycos]

Remember when searching the threads use exact proper wording and you should be good.

[Jarrett]

For this exact reason I hate the word "dizzy" when used to describe a distributor. If I want to search threads in regards to distributors, I have to smack my head against a pole a few times to unlearn the correct way to talk so that I can find what I may need. Why do people feel the need to shorten words?

[Stoner51]

Is there not a post in the swap section about this?

I know there is because I put it there when I did my swap. Nothing new I just took all the information on the site and documented my swap.



steve

[steelbluesleepR]

For this exact reason I hate the word "dizzy" when used to describe a distributor. If I want to search threads in regards to distributors, I have to smack my head against a pole a few times to unlearn the correct way to talk so that I can find what I may need. Why do people feel the need to shorten words?

Colloquialisms make people with average knowledge in a particular area feel like they are part of a group of enthusiasts. It's kind of a "Hey guys, I know this stuff too!"

[deevergote]

At least "dizzy" is rather universally used as a term for distributor. It complicates things, but you can search for "dizzy" as easily as you can search for "distributor".

I couldn't agree more with the idea of not doing swaps on your sole method of transportation. Even when you have everything you need, you could still run into trouble! I'd suggest putting the F22A back in until you can afford to complete the swap properly. You don't need a harness. Just cut and splice wires (read up on how to do that properly.) Be sure to use an OBD1 ECU.

You can use your OBD1 distributor internals in the OBD2 distributor. You can use the OBD2 injectors with a resistor box delete. However, both of these things are basically "hackjob" methods, and either one could result in issues down the road.
It's possible to render the distributor completely useless if you don't swap the parts in correctly. I've known people with little experience do it correctly, but I've also known adventurous, experienced people that were very uneasy about attempting such a thing.
If you use the OBD2 injectors with spliced wires, you run the chance of one of your splices coming loose. If an injector malfunctions for that reason, you could end up doing damage to your engine.

Do it right, do it once, don't worry about it ever again. Halfass it, and it'll plague you with problems.

[Andrewasoar]

Thank you for your replies everyone. Especially Jarett because that thread is exactly what I'm looking for.



I coulnd't agree more with everyone with the waiting to swap, however I put my other vehicle up for sale on craigslist and it sold in under 12 hours. It was quite the surprise to me. I did get a decent price for it but I truly had to sell.
Driving an F-150 across Rhode Island every day 7 days a week just is not going to be good for me. I'd be even more finacially unstable. But theres nothing I can do now but get the CB7 on the road now.

If I have anymore questions for things I can't come up with without searching for a few hours again then I will post again. Thank you once again everyone.