Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

h22 swap not starting after running

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    h22 swap not starting after running

    Hi
    i recently swap in a h22a1 in my 94. The car starts right up and idles a bit high around 1k but wont rev past 2 1/2k. Its not overheating but will not start back up till a few hours have past. Any thoughts?

    More details
    The car previously had an f23 running fine.

    Im using the ignition coil and dizzy cap from the f23.

    I had to use the tb from the f23 because the h22 tb did not have tps and map sensor on it.

    Geting spark and gas even when it refuses to start.

    Tps is cracked.

    Cat seem like it is over heating (no o2 sensor yet)

    Chip po6(i think this might be the problem)
    Tags: None
    #2
    Part of diagnosing a problem is to fix the known issues first. This is common sense. If you suspect that your ECU is bad, but you KNOW your car needs an O2 and a new TPS, do those first. The O2 won't prevent the car from running if it's not there, but it's not helping the issue, either.

    A P13 could be an expensive (~$100) diagnosis purchase, but it's less expensive than taking it to a shop and can be sold when you're done.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

    Comment

      #3
      Doing a swap with a chipped ECU is never a good idea. If you can get your hands on ANY other ECU, even a stock ECU from a 1990-1995 Accord, you should be able to start and idle the H22A1 on it. Don't drive it on that ECU, as it may cause damage... but it will be a cheaper and more trustworthy way to get everything running.

      Chipped ECUs shouldn't be used without a proper tune for your specific setup.






      Comment

        #4
        I borrowed one from 98 it started to but sputtered alot is it okay to rev it?

        Comment

          #5
          A 1998 what? Accord? That would be an OBD2 ECU that will not plug in to your 1994.

          Also, if it's sputtering at idle, why would you want to rev it? You know you have a problem. Keeping it out of that rev range doesn't make the problem go away. You could lean something out and blow a hole in a piston.

          You're quickly proving yourself to be someone who should not be swapping engines into other vehicles.

          And on another note, do you realize that this forum is for 1990-1993 Accords? www.cd5tuner.com is for the CD-chassis that you have.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
            A 1998 what? Accord? That would be an OBD2 ECU that will not plug in to your 1994.

            Also, if it's sputtering at idle, why would you want to rev it? You know you have a problem. Keeping it out of that rev range doesn't make the problem go away. You could lean something out and blow a hole in a piston.

            You're quickly proving yourself to be someone who should not be swapping engines into other vehicles.

            And on another note, do you realize that this forum is for 1990-1993 Accords? www.cd5tuner.com is for the CD-chassis that you have.
            I grabbed it from a friend i guess i only know that its from an accord

            That why i ask if was okay. how will i know if i was get the same 2k rpm range

            Sorry...

            I didnt even notice that, im not to big on posting on car forums but most of what i learn about doing the swap was here so i thought this would be the best place to help.

            Comment

              #7
              I got a p13 today and it wont even start the car. I tried 3 other ecu's ( not p13s) that at least started the car. The odd things is that its throwing codes (vtec and fluid level). If it was a bad ecu won't cel stay soild during test?

              Comment

                #8
                ok, which engine harness are you using?
                do you have the resistor box plugged in?

                Comment

                Previous template Next
                Working...
                X