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Is my car going into limp mode and how the heck do I fix it?

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    #1

    Is my car going into limp mode and how the heck do I fix it?

    I have a 93 accord with a 95 ECU, 02 f23 and a h22 tranny from a prelude. This makes the second time this has happened to me.

    I fixed the problems it was showing before: the vtec solenoid was disconnected from the ECU and I re-wired it and the oil pressure light would turn on and flicker, but the guy who put it together used around three ft of wire when maybe 6 inches would have worked. I fixed the wiring there and the oil pressure light hasn't turned on since.

    After fixing the vtec problem the CEL didn't come on for about a week, but then it came on with two codes: 12 and 13 which means it's the EGR valve and the BARO sensor.

    My problem I encountered was when I was coming back from the lake today.
    The car made a sudden jerk and drove a little wonky at first. When I was driving downhill I slipped it from fifth into neutral and the rpms immediately dropped and the lights lit up on the dash showing the engine had died. Coming out of the hill I was able to put it back in fifth, pop the clutch and continue driving, but every time I had to change gears or started slowing down the car would act like it wanted to die, but I tried to keep the rpms up as best I could.
    I was able to get home safely and I haven't tried starting the vehicle since, but I noticed that it acted like it was misfiring a little, but when I had the rpms above 3k it acted awful.
    Has anyone encountered this before and know what the problem is?
    The first time I fixed it I thought it might have been the oil pressure sensor wire fraying and grounding out against the exhaust. My thought was that the ECU would shut the engine down because it thought it wasn't getting enough oil pressure. After fixing the v-Tec and oil pressure problems a couple of weeks ago the car stopped going I to what I'm assuming is "limp mode" and has ran perfectly up until today.
    I'm still on vacation at my girlfriend's house and she doesn't have hardly any tools available and my house is roughly an hour and a half away. :/

    Thank you in advance for your time and help.
    Last edited by PortzMonkey; 07-01-2014, 07:47 PM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    the car can act like that when the MAP sensor is disconnected or getting poor vacuum, check the vacuum lines around the throttle body.

    what codes are you still getting? still the BARO? thats a sensor inside of the ECU, so you may need to try a different ECU if you can...


    - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
    - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
    - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
    Current cars:
    - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
    - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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      #3
      Thanks for the fast response.
      I'll have to wait until the sun starts setting behind the hills some before I can check it. It's one of the hottest days of the year and taking a two year-old to the lake sure can wear a guy out.

      I was afraid the BARO was an ECU problem. :/
      Unfortunately the only way I'll be able to check it would be to hopefully find another one that can work with this Frankenstein build on ebay.

      Comment

        #4
        There was no F22 in 2002.
        Being more specific about the parts you have, and whether or not you did the swap (I'm assuming not) would make it much easier to help you.

        If you're running a VTEC engine from 2002, it's likely the F23A1. Your ECU is probably a P0A, which is for the F22B1... not correct for the F23A1, but it works well enough in most cases.
        Anyway, yes... get a different P0A and see if anything changes. In most cases, the ECU is probably in limp mode when throwing a CEL.






        Comment

          #5
          My apologies, f23.
          And I figured 'the guy who put it together' would be enough to let you know I didn't do the swap.
          I know it's the 2.3 but I don't know the specifics about the ECU or the engine other than what the guy had told me when I bought it from him.
          I know it's a 93 ex body, 02 2.3 engine, standard transmission from a prelude and a 95 ECU. If anything more specific is needed I could always go outside and check, but it would seem the general consensus is stating I'll need a new ECU.

          If I was to get the correct ECU for the body/engine hybrid which one would I need to get and how much of a conversion on the wiring would it take?

          I'm not sure if it matters or not but the CELs came on late last week and the car was still driving fine. It just went into limp mode earlier today. I was pulling out from a stop light and there was a sudden jerk from I'm assuming the engine.

          I'm sorry, but typing all of it out on an iPhone proves to be a challenge. :/

          Comment

            #6
            I went outside to check the vacuum lines. They looked intact and connected. I tried starting up the vehicle and it worked great. The CEL went off when it should and didn't come back on, but I know that it will usually come back on once the engine has warmed back up.

            I honestly don't know what's wrong with it, but I'm going to try to call around some junkyards tomorrow and see if I can find an ECU for it.

            Looking at the ECU it is indeed a P0A.

            Again, thank you for your time and help.

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