eBay coils and sleeves

[Offroadr]

Yes I know they are crap but this is a track only car. Any one installed them? Which sleeve is used in the rear? Looked at YouTube but cannot tell if it's the short or tall sleeve in the rear struts . Thanks

[deevergote]

They are extremely dangerous. You can die, or kill others, just as easily on a track as you can on public roads (I hope you're at least planning on towing the car to the track...) Stay away from that junk. You'd get better performance from stock components.

And CBs have shocks, not struts. They are not part of the suspension geometry, merely shock absorbers.

[Offroadr]

Thanks for the reply , what makes them dangerous? Ok my fault for confusing you. I am putting truharts on the rear.

[deevergote]

Truharts are also dangerous junk.

They are made with low grade materials, with absolutely no real engineering or quality control behind them. Inconsistent spring rates (that are way too high for damn near every shock on the market, in regards to the sleeves...) Neither of those things are made by an actual suspension company. They are generic junk made by Chinese/Taiwanese copycat companies.

Your life is riding on your suspension. It's one of the most important things in keeping you in control of your car. Without quality suspension components, handling and braking will be severely compromised. You may not realize it until it's too late, and you've already pushed the car beyond its limits. Why in the world would you want to cheap out on something so important?

[lbus9168]

Why would anyone use cheap suspension on a track only car

i understand it if youre trying to be low and cheap. i disagree with it but i still get it.

BUT YOURE LITERALLY TRYING TO GO FAST ON $20 SUSPENION

YES. EBAY COILS ARE TERRIBLE.

youtube any car thats used them. see how bouncy they are? slower than stock suspension around a track is not worth spending money on

[Offroadr]

Lol, it's lemons car not a race car. Stock is fine I guess then. Can't spend over $500, thanks

[lbus9168]

keep it stock, you will be faster.

[deevergote]

Stock will indeed be faster. Ebay coils are so absurdly stiff that you'd need $500 shocks just to make them work properly. Anything else will result in blow or unresponsive shocks, meaning your tires will bounce terribly.

Stick to healthy stock components, or invest in some mild springs (under 1.5" drop) and some inexpensive shocks, such as KYB GR2, Koni STR.T, or Tokico HP.

[F22Chris]

Check my sale thread.

Don't use eBay coils. It's even more dangerous for a track car because you're going to be trying to tear ass around a track. Cheap + suspension = not welcome here - as you have read already, lol.

Koni SRT + Neuspeeds are still like 600 bucks.

[deevergote]

He won't be able to see that for a while...

[F22Chris]

He won't be able to see that for a while...

Haha OH YEAH!

[Offroadr]

Thanks, I am learning. My first import tear down and since its lemons ($500 total investment) I was trying to go cheap. Thanks

I know the meaning of good parts.

Here is my main project. It has custom built shocks and 1100 RWHP

[Chrisnick]

I'd run them. In fact, I did with Bilstein HD's. Worked fairly well until I blew a rear shock due to insufficient travel and too high of a spring rate. They're usually in the 550lb range for Hondas, with a height of 7.25"- about 2" too short in the back, 1" too short in the front for Accords. See my build thread for more information, and the "chrisnick builds a better eBay bilstein" for more information. On a track car, they'll work Just fine. For the front, I'll still be running them with a hyperco tender, for the rear, I got new bilsteins and am running them with a 9" tall, 400lb summit racing spring on all-star performance sleeves/collars. I've had ZERO issues otherwise with the eBay springs and collars over the past 20000 miles or so. Aim for a ride height around 12.5-13" for hub center to fender for best travel and suspension stroke.

A better modification is the to run the 90-93 integra(DA chassis) front upper control arms-but run the accord anchor bolts. -3 degrees (fixed) camber, +4 caster, and MUCH better turn in feel and grip. also see my build thread and my "the quest for More front camber" threads.

Also, remove the front sway bar, add a fixed front shock bar(Neuspeeds are cheap and fairly avilable, big difference on my car), and either find a progress rear sway bar or "double up" with an extra rear sway bar.

Good luck! This is a great chassis, and doesn't need a ton to make it quick. I love autocrossing mine.

[F22Chris]

I'd run them. In fact, I did with Bilstein HD's. Worked fairly well until I blew a rear shock due to insufficient travel and too high of a spring rate.

Dude..

[deevergote]

I did some editing, so I don't have to ban a member that is usually extremely helpful for not following the rules.

Cheap suspension components are never a good idea. They are known to be inconsistent, so one person's experience may not be another person's experience. Granted, pairing shit springs with high-end shocks will produce a much better (and potentially safer) result. But if you can afford high-end shocks, why not shell out the extra $150 for a quality set of springs? Hell, pay $50-$100 for a used set of quality springs. Way better than generic junk! Height adjustability is overrated anyway. Most people have no need for it. A good 2" drop or so with a set of quality springs will suit most needs on the track. Most people will probably never actually develop their skills enough to truly exceed the limits of a CB7 on a set of quality springs and shocks, let alone needing the ability to adjust either the shocks or springs.