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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Car turns over but won't start sometimes, but will pop start.
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Originally posted by Granite CB7 View PostI would just want to add that with the spark plugs installed properly, leaking lower tube seals will NEVER let oil into the combustion chamber. Lets say you don't "siphon" the oil out before unscrewing the spark plug, when you unscrew it then the oil goes in the chamber. The spark plug is essentially a pipe plug really, it will stop all fluids from entering the chamber as long as they are tight/snug and not loose. I would for the moment clean most of the oil up so you have good connections @ the wires to spark plugs and continue with your diagnosis. With spark, fuel and compression she'll run.
The spark plug tube seals are exactly that. A seal for the spark plug tube. If the seals leak and let oil into the spark plug tube, then it can travel through the threads and leak into the cylinder. I've had my spark plug tubes overflow with oil once and have had to deal with this issue multiple times. There was obvious evidence of oil being burnt in the cylinder on the spark plug itself.
How would the oil get into the combustion chamber and foul the spark plug?
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I would just want to add that with the spark plugs installed properly, leaking lower tube seals will NEVER let oil into the combustion chamber. Lets say you don't "siphon" the oil out before unscrewing the spark plug, when you unscrew it then the oil goes in the chamber. The spark plug is essentially a pipe plug really, it will stop all fluids from entering the chamber as long as they are tight/snug and not loose. I would for the moment clean most of the oil up so you have good connections @ the wires to spark plugs and continue with your diagnosis. With spark, fuel and compression she'll run.
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Cap and rotor are fine, I'll order some grommets, plugs and wires when I get paid friday. The car does run great and no smoke out the tailpipe, so I'm assuming the oil hasn't leaked past the plugs yet.
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Repair the leaking spark plug tubes. Any oil getting into the cylinder will foul the spark plugs and cause starting/running issues.
Why haven't you taken off the cap for the distributor and actually look at the internals? It is really (REALLY) easy to just pull it off to see the health of the distributor. Super easy.
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If there's a substantial amount of oil that is actually entering your combustion chambers, it's very likely. Depending on the amount of liquid, it could also cause severe engine damage (essentially, hydrolock... bent valves, bent connecting rods, maybe even a brand new central air system for your block!)
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostCrank the engine. Pull a spark plug. Sniff. If it smells like fuel, the engine is getting fuel.
One more thing, could bad spark plug tube grommets cause this?, I noticed cylinders 1 and 3 have a good bit of oil in them
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Crank the engine. Pull a spark plug. Sniff. If it smells like fuel, the engine is getting fuel.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostYou could always determine what it's not getting (spark or fuel) before randomly replacing parts...
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You could always determine what it's not getting (spark or fuel) before randomly replacing parts...
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Originally posted by Dabsfordaze View PostWhen it doesnt start, does it just crank? Or does it fire up but once the key is let go it dies? Either way, id check for continuity from the ignition switch to where it plugs in by the fuse box. This would happen to me on cold mornings. It would just crank then eventually would turn over, after a few months it would turn over fine but die immediately. Or maybe the igniter is bad? Have you changed the distributor?
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When it doesnt start, does it just crank? Or does it fire up but once the key is let go it dies? Either way, id check for continuity from the ignition switch to where it plugs in by the fuse box. This would happen to me on cold mornings. It would just crank then eventually would turn over, after a few months it would turn over fine but die immediately. Or maybe the igniter is bad? Have you changed the distributor?
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Originally posted by F22Chris View PostHmm. Look new doesn't mean anything really, man. I've had remanded starters fail on startup. It sounds to me like the starter might be sticking if it did start though. You can always hit it with a wrench
The starter spins the motor no problem so no wrench snaking necessary
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Hmm. Look new doesn't mean anything really, man. I've had remanded starters fail on startup. It sounds to me like the starter might be sticking if it did start though. You can always hit it with a wrench
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