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Problem: H22a Cb7

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    Problem: H22a Cb7

    starts normal, sounds normal, runs normal, even feels normal.. BUT..when driving; once i hit around 2.5k-3k it feels like im pressing the clutch all the way in, feels like a stall but no sputtering, just simply drops to idle RPM range, i have to clutch-in rev to make the engine respond to the trottle, if i keep all gears under 3k range i can drive normal..my thoughts are TPS, havent got the chance to test it yet..what do you guys think? EGR ported has been cleaned spotless before putting engine back together, o2 sensors are new, the engine feel like a power loss just a rpm drop at 3k range

    #2
    Is your check engine light on? Are your ignition timing and valve timing set correctly?

    Also, o2 sensors? How many are you using?






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      #3
      the car has been running properly all summer with brand new timing belt, water pump..using 1 o2 sensor on downpipe, the ecu is a chipped p06, valve adjustment done before motor was put back together in June of this year, the TPS is BWR tps from eBay, back when i thought the tps was the reason is wouldnt start, (main relay was the culprit for that about a year ago) this problem with the rpm issue has only started a couple days ago, sometimes it drives normal, hits vtec and all that, but once i turn car off and start it again, it does the same thing

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        #4
        Do you have access to a P13 ECU? My first thought in any weird situation like this is to suspect the chipped ECU.






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          #5
          Yes im actually going to use a friends p13, to see if that's the culprit as well, ill update tomorrow

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            #6
            so i tested the tps... closed was at 0.02 and WOT was at 0.18
            so its was junk, got a new one put it one and calibrated to closed 0.53
            and WOT was 4.58 so yes the tps was the issue

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              #7
              traded my p06 eu for a p13 ecu, popped the p13 in and idled horribly, revved and sputtered on the way down, took the ecu out opened it and it was actually a p30 with a p13 sticker on the side..like wtf..told my buddy about it and he was just as shocked as i was, so im thinking the ecu i did have was perfectly fine, just the TPS was being a little bitch

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                #8
                Wow... the P30 is for the B16A! Someone definitely shafted you.
                If it's a USDM P30, it's probably worth a good deal of money. If it's JDM, it's not worth much. It's from the VTEC Del Sol.

                Some people are just shady as hell...

                Track the guy down and get your P06 back, or get an actual P13. Hopefully the TPS was the only problem!






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                  #9
                  i got it from a really good friend, he had it in his prelude that hes building and they couldnt fix the rough idle on it, i just let him use the p06 so hed be able to move his car if needed, we both thought it was a p13, he never opened it to check either, so we were both like wtf?? lol, getting my p06 back tomrw and see if the issue has been solved with the new TPS, i bet his rough idle issue was the "p13" he was using, damn scammers

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                    #10
                    Probably. Man, that sucks. Hopefully no damage has been done to his engine!






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                      #11
                      those BWR tps' are junk ass Chinese ones with BWR selling them as their own, same deal with omnipower. My bwr one (it was cheaper then the rest when i was looking) lasted oh maybe 6 months, then i had a stock Japanese one ISUMO p# 16400-P0A-A11, that lasted a year, and recently a Dorman, that seems to be having a fit, its only ~4 months old. I think vibration might be a problem as Ive read and going through so many, so when I get to messing with it Ill probably make a gasket out of like tool box drawer liner/yoga mat and see if it helps. the ISUMO is only like 15 bucks and an OEM supplier. even the dorman feels more substantial then the BWR one. If they continue to get wonky, there is a TPS for a Q45 that looks a little more resilient that fits sans plug.

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                        #12
                        Not sure what brand this TPS is, it looks exactly like the BWR, got it for free from my buddy that gave me the p30 thinking it was a p13, i mean i dont blame him at all, it has the p13 code sticker on the side, also got the OBX itb from him as well, theyre all synced, just need a nice tune to run them, picked them up for $300, with fuel rail and everythings

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                          #13
                          It's true about BWR... total garbage. Everything they make. ("make"... as they don't actually make anything... as Erik said, they're just put their name on generic Chinese-made junk.) OBX is another knockoff company, but their quality seems to be a little better than most. Not sure what their ITBs are like, but I know their headers and LSD units are usually worth the price (you get what you pay for, but it's not usually total junk.)
                          I always wondered what people do for ITBs on a street car. Do you run without an air filter? Do you run 4 individual filters? Do you build a plenum with a single filtered inlet?
                          Unfiltered seems to be the most performance-oriented approach, but I don't imagine a daily driven engine is going to last long that way. Just seeing how dirty an engine bay can get in a few months, imagine the engine actively sucking in all that filth as you drive! I'd be curious about the plenum idea. Give it enough volume that there is never too little air to suck in. Could even work with a functional hood scoop and a free-flowing box filter.

                          Now I want to try it.






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                            #14
                            issue resolved! The TPS was the culprit, put my p06 back in then spent the money on a real street tune and all i can say "OH MY GOD!" she runs and drives and sounds just perfect, can't believe how much a good tune makes a difference

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