f20 or h22?

[chi]

kinda stuck on a decision to make here..i know the f20 is cheaper,but are there any bigger advantages with the h22? Not going for crazy power numbers,but it will probably end up boosted at 9-12psi,just something to putt around in lol. also,what trans do I need? I have a stock auto in my 91 right now,I want a 5spd though,do I need a 5spd from a prelude or 94-up accord? Sorry if these questions have been asked already by the way

[Bunta]

kinda stuck on a decision to make here..i know the f20 is cheaper,but are there any bigger advantages with the h22? Not going for crazy power numbers,but it will probably end up boosted at 9-12psi,just something to putt around in lol. also,what trans do I need? I have a stock auto in my 91 right now,I want a 5spd though,do I need a 5spd from a prelude or 94-up accord? Sorry if these questions have been asked already by the way

There are some pros and cons of each but being that an F-series is cheaper you will have more money to spend on other things that you will need (or it will cost you less to get on the road). You can as far as I know boost on the auto, but you'll probably enjoy the 5 speed more. Do you already have an accord, if so then you don't have to buy another F22 and any fwd F-series or H-series transmission will work. I would look around at the Forced Induction forum and also check out other boosted members rides.

Particularly useful to you might be the highest horsepower thread in the F/I section. This will give you an idea of what works and what can be expected from certain setups.

[deevergote]

The F20B is nothing at all like the other F series engines found in North America. In fact, there are parts of it that are nothing at all like any engine found in North America. Therefore, when one of those parts breaks, you'll have to order parts from overseas to repair your engine.
The F20B does not have a compatible OBD1 ECU, so a custom "chipped" ECU will be necessary... this introduces a significant opportunity for something to go wrong. Best to stick with a proper OBD1 ECU for your car.
The F20B has a narrower powerband and lower overall torque compared to the H22A.
The F20B comes in two varieties... a 180ps variety, and a 200ps variety. They are completely indistinguishable from the outside. Many of the lower-priced engine resellers will happily charge you for the 200ps model, and ship you a 180ps model. Either knowingly, or unknowingly... because, like I said, they're virtually indistinguishable. You can go to hmotorsonline.com if you want to be sure you get what you pay for if you go that route. They are pretty much the ONLY engine resller I'd ever trust enough to recommend to anyone.

If you're going turbo, don't waste your money on a swap. Some of the most powerful cars on this forum are running turbo F22A engines. Instead of paying a few thousand dollars for an engine swap, put that money into proper forged internals, quality turbo components, and a competent tuner.

Before you do ANY of that, read up on this forum. The fact that you say "sorry if this question has been asked" says to me that you haven't bothered trying to do any research on your own. You will find very quickly that the knowledgeable people here won't waste their time helping someone who isn't actively trying to learn. Everyone here will happily guide you in your learning, but nobody is going to sit you down and pour knowledge in your head. This place has been around since you were 10 years old. The amount of knowledge accumulated here is staggering. Nobody expects you to go through it all... but you WILL find many answers with just a few minutes of searching.


Finally, "psi" is meaningless without knowing the turbo specs. A tiny turbo pushing "12psi" is going to be a blowtorch. A huge turbo pushing "12psi" is going to blow a hole in your block. Granted, these are extremes... but there is no "safe" psi across the board. Furthermore, there is no "safe" psi at all for the stock internals of any H or F series engine. Period. If you want turbo, you have to build the engine to handle it.

[Bunta]

I thought he was just being lazy by not saying F22AX...

That said some turbo's shine at specific amounts of boost. You were incorrect in saying that "A huge turbo pushing 12 psi will blow a hole in your block"

False, a large frame turbo will be well outside of it's efficiency range only pushing 12 psi, which is why you'll see some guys making Big numbers on relatively small amounts of boost, because they are using a turbo rated to make a lot more than they are making but they are barely making it work. It's a balancing act between the turbo efficiently compressing air and trying to compress it beyond what is efficient for the turbo (and simply adding heat to the air charge).

[chi]

The F20B is nothing at all like the other F series engines found in North America. In fact, there are parts of it that are nothing at all like any engine found in North America. Therefore, when one of those parts breaks, you'll have to order parts from overseas to repair your engine.
The F20B does not have a compatible OBD1 ECU, so a custom "chipped" ECU will be necessary... this introduces a significant opportunity for something to go wrong. Best to stick with a proper OBD1 ECU for your car.
The F20B has a narrower powerband and lower overall torque compared to the H22A.
The F20B comes in two varieties... a 180ps variety, and a 200ps variety. They are completely indistinguishable from the outside. Many of the lower-priced engine resellers will happily charge you for the 200ps model, and ship you a 180ps model. Either knowingly, or unknowingly... because, like I said, they're virtually indistinguishable. You can go to hmotorsonline.com if you want to be sure you get what you pay for if you go that route. They are pretty much the ONLY engine resller I'd ever trust enough to recommend to anyone.

If you're going turbo, don't waste your money on a swap. Some of the most powerful cars on this forum are running turbo F22A engines. Instead of paying a few thousand dollars for an engine swap, put that money into proper forged internals, quality turbo components, and a competent tuner.

Before you do ANY of that, read up on this forum. The fact that you say "sorry if this question has been asked" says to me that you haven't bothered trying to do any research on your own. You will find very quickly that the knowledgeable people here won't waste their time helping someone who isn't actively trying to learn. Everyone here will happily guide you in your learning, but nobody is going to sit you down and pour knowledge in your head. This place has been around since you were 10 years old. The amount of knowledge accumulated here is staggering. Nobody expects you to go through it all... but you WILL find many answers with just a few minutes of searching.


Finally, "psi" is meaningless without knowing the turbo specs. A tiny turbo pushing "12psi" is going to be a blowtorch. A huge turbo pushing "12psi" is going to blow a hole in your block. Granted, these are extremes... but there is no "safe" psi across the board. Furthermore, there is no "safe" psi at all for the stock internals of any H or F series engine. Period. If you want turbo, you have to build the engine to handle it.

I've been busy getting cars ready for the upcoming derbies,that's why I didn't look into it much,but I now see the vast amounts of knowledge that this site has to offer and kinda feel a little dumb for not searching first lol.

if my block is still good I'll definitely be reusing it in the car,I'm just kinda prepping for the worst is all. The last fella that owned it claimed the oil drain plug fell out and it died,but still turned over after he got it home. honestly,i have no idea what size turbo I'll run on it,I'm still brainstorming with it,I have no idea how this build is gonna end lol..guess I'll figure it out when I get there