My grandmothers 93 sedan hasn't had a working speedometer since she got it in January. We replaced the sensor on top the trans, but nothing. I knew my cluster in my car works fine so I went through the hassle of swapping over the cluster and STILL nothing! What else could be the issue?
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Speedo issues, still....
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The speed sensor has 3 wires, there should be battery voltage on the yellow wire with the key in the run or start position, the orange wire is the signal output, it should have a 12 volt square wave signal while the wheels are moving and the black wire is ground, it’s a simple system consisting of only a few components and wires, the other thing that is often overlooked is the little drive pin that’s inside the speed sensor, they are small and easily fall out,
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Originally posted by Ashtrain View PostThe speed sensor has 3 wires, there should be battery voltage on the yellow wire with the key in the run or start position, the orange wire is the signal output, it should have a 12 volt square wave signal while the wheels are moving and the black wire is ground, it’s a simple system consisting of only a few components and wires, the other thing that is often overlooked is the little drive pin that’s inside the speed sensor, they are small and easily fall out,
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Ok so the yellow wire is showing nothing. The orange wire shows between .5v and 1.5v while wheels are spinning. I take the vss off my other CB (black car) that I KNOW works and put it on the green car.... same... thing... To make matters more weird I put the sensor I took off the green car and put in my black one, nope no speedo. The pin is in place and I made sure the gear in the trans was actually turning when wheels are moving. I'm so lost...
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All fuses are good, when running there's actually a little voltage showing from the yellow wire, and between 2 and 7 volts on the orange wire, it fluctuates. The both sensors DO work on my black car, I just forgot to plug it in -_- So I know the sensor is good, cluster is good, and all fuses are good.
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That is the opposite of what you said earlier. In any case, the #1 fuse is where the power for that wire starts. If you have used a multi meter ( I'm assuming you have 1 given your previous posts) and have confirmed battery voltage at the fuse, then start tracing (following) the wire till you find where it is shorting to ground.
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Originally posted by Size9zombie View PostThat is the opposite of what you said earlier. In any case, the #1 fuse is where the power for that wire starts. If you have used a multi meter ( I'm assuming you have 1 given your previous posts) and have confirmed battery voltage at the fuse, then start tracing (following) the wire till you find where it is shorting to ground.
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Sorry for the delay, my next suggestion is a real pain to get to but it’s the fastest way we can figured out where it’s losing voltage, access the back of the dash fuse panel, it has to be unbolted and pulled down, if you undo some harness holders you can get decent access,check voltage at the 16 pin connector pin#16 it’s a yellow wire, I forget the excact color of connector, blue I think, there is only one 16 pin though, anyway that is output voltage to the VSS through fuse #1, it should have 12+ volts or battery voltage, if it only has 6.6 volts at that point then your problem is in the fuse panel itself, if you do have 12+ then there is a short in the wire between the fuse panel and VSS. All electrical diagnostics should be done with a good battery.
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Originally posted by Ashtrain View PostSorry for the delay, my next suggestion is a real pain to get to but it’s the fastest way we can figured out where it’s losing voltage, access the back of the dash fuse panel, it has to be unbolted and pulled down, if you undo some harness holders you can get decent access,check voltage at the 16 pin connector pin#16 it’s a yellow wire, I forget the excact color of connector, blue I think, there is only one 16 pin though, anyway that is output voltage to the VSS through fuse #1, it should have 12+ volts or battery voltage, if it only has 6.6 volts at that point then your problem is in the fuse panel itself, if you do have 12+ then there is a short in the wire between the fuse panel and VSS. All electrical diagnostics should be done with a good battery.
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Originally posted by Ashtrain View PostSorry I misread that, 6.6 volts at fuse 1 is definitely a problem inside the fuse panel if you have no other issues with indicators in the cluster,power for fuse #1 goes through fuses #4,5a and 6 before it reaches fuse #1, pull the fuse panel completely out pop it open and find the burnt copper plate that carries voltage, or just replace it with a junkyard one. And the darn stealership says you gotta replace all this stuff,
31961114_2081991728748468_6203458566850871296_n by Sam Daniel, on Flickr
31959653_2081991722081802_2586814117541052416_n by Sam Daniel, on Flickr
31948515_2081991695415138_7717735031782768640_n by Sam Daniel, on Flickr
Everything looks intact. If I can even get this clusterfuck back together
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You are over complicating a simple issue. Follow the KISS rule. Keep It Simple Stupid. Check continuity on all wires, connectoer to connector. Just for the record, not saying you don't know how, you did check your meter to see what zero is right? ( put the meter on ohms, touch the leads together to see what it reads just thru the meter, if it is a + # subtract from measure resistance if - add to resistance that amount). Taking the whole fuse box apart is a total waste of time. They are NOT prone to failure.
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