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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Shifting Question
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Agreed. Downshifting when coming to a stop is where the "problem" is. It's not even really a problem. It's just that downshifting wears your engine, tranny and clutch more while shifting to neutral will wear your brakes more. I choose to sacrifice my brakes rather than my engine.Originally posted by 92DX
Down shifting isn't always bad in all situations. For example, say if your going on an off ramp or making a turn, just rev match the downshift(heel and toe) this way you dont shock your clutch and be able to accelerate out of it faster.- Ghosty
WTB: MAP sensor (2+bar), IAT sensor, ECU & dizzy harness plugs... PM me!
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Originally Posted by 92DX
"Down shifting isn't always bad in all situations. For example, say if your going on an off ramp or making a turn, just rev match the downshift(heel and toe) this way you dont shock your clutch and be able to accelerate out of it faster."
Keep with your current method of goin to neutral when comin to a stop. NOTHING wrong with that except harder on the brakes like everyone else has said. The heel and toe method works wonders if you can do it...I see a lot of people try and end up concentrating too much on the method of it and end up runnin into something or just losing control. But if you know how and can do it without thinking about it then do it.
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My accord is an auto thats pretty much jacked so I wont even discuss it but in my Evo when I'm just tooling around town I normally go to neutral if I'm going to make a complete stop, If I'm not going to make a complete stop then I rev match and downshift to the next lower gear - I normally dont downshift to first but occaisionally that's applicable also. When I participate in a performance driving event I always downshift and rev match when slowing for a corner that requres a lower gear. Really if your good at heel and toe it doesnt put much additional wear on the transmission / clutch but if you miss the match then you will get some clutch wear of course. My philosophy is that brake pads are cheaper than clutch linings.~ Viva la Roofnips ~
2006 Evolution MR 13.008 @ 106.7
2006 WRX Sti (still breaking it in)
1990 Honda Accord LX-T 15.6 @ 93
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