I'm looking at a buddy's accord...

[Leung]

because i was going to buy it off of him since it has a rebuilt auto transmission and only 134K miles on it.

well it starts up nice but makes this "whirring" sound but it goes away after about 3 minutes of running.

after letting it warm up for a bit i decided to take it for a test drive, so i release the hand brake and set it into drive. I step on the gas but it doesn't go. if you look at the dash board where the emblem of the car is it says brake light on the rear side like where the trunk would be. so i pull the hand brake back up and a "brake" light lights up. i slam the brake back down to see if it'll disengage but no it doesn't.

i'm thinking since it's been sitting on the street for a month or two with out being moved, the brake cable might have broken or the rear drums are frozen into place. even though it was dark out i don't think he had any rocks blocking the wheels.

anyone got an opinions as what might be keeping the car into place?

[defjamon22z]

when u say doesnt go.. u mean it doesnt burn out or it doesnt move at all?

[Leung]

the front tires don't spin and the car doesn't move at all. the engine just revs.
it was kinda hard to get it into D4 also, so maybe shift solenoid?

[blackcb7]

tranny is slipping, or maybe its no going into gear

[AccordEX22]

Even with the e-brake locked up a car will still pull itself. Sounds like it has issues with the transmission

[Leung]

hmm that kinda sucks it was just rebuilt not too long ago also.

[fourdoor]

tranny is slipping, or maybe its no going into gear

x2

[accord917]

tranny is slipping, or maybe its no going into gear

x3..

[Leung]

i think i'm going to go back and see if i can pull any codes from the tcu ecm or what ever it is because i swore it was kinda hard to shift the tranny into drive. i might see if i can pull off the center console to check the shift/lock solenoid. majority of last night i was searching topics about the known problems with the transmission after you guys said it was either not shifting into gear or there was slipping.

if you guys/gals can't tell i really want this car only because this is the only body i've seen so far that has the least ammount of rust. if i do manage to get it up and running, the little rust on the wheel wells, it needs a muffler and a windshield since theres this huge crack all the way across.

[Leung]

ok that can be easily remedied.

[CB7EX-R]

id just buy another car., one thats not auto.I had a factory auto tranny in my old lx and it had 350xxxkms and I never have a problem other then eventually its shift points were a bit slugish, but i find that in any old auto.
Anyway at one point in time it wouldnt go into gear bc the tranny fluid was leaking out the tranny coolant lines where the 2 flex hoses are. Somone hadnt tightned the Oclamps properly. Anyway I ended up braking the shifter linkage lol, put a new one in and toped up my fluid and it worked great ever since. That mite not be your problem....mabey the tourque converters shot., or mabey whoever rebuilt the tranny didnt do a very good job. Also the back drums and shoes are prob just ceased. And whats the noise? is it the altonator belt squeeling? if so it prob just needs to be tightend.

[Leung]

i'm not sure what the whirring sound is as it goes away after a bit of time. could just be a belt but it sounded a lot like my '03 kia spectra with twin cams when i would go to step on the gas and it would spool up.

[Leung]

ok so i finally got the car back to my house and to my amazement, the front brakes have never been replaced. how do i know? well, on the driver side, the inside pad is missing and the outer pad is down to nothing. the rotor is all chewed up with deep ridges on the inside and the outside is like the face on a record from back in the day.

i'm gonna call a junk yard tomorrow to see if they have any akibono calipers, i might as well replace both sides just to be safe.

anyone have any tips on how to get the hub nut off? i'm using a torque wrench and a pipe with a length of about 2 feet but i can't budge the thing. i even stood on the pipe trying to use my weight to undo it but all that happen was the the rotor spun. i'm thinking i need someone to step on the brake pedal while i try to undo the hub nut, right?

[rlyons]

Make sure you have uncrimped the nut where it is crimped into the axle and then yes lock the brakes and get a good size pipe and climb on it and jump, I had to use a 3/4 drive socket and breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe on mine to break it loose.

[Leung]

ok i'll get a longer pipe and someone to step on the brakes then but i'll have to do that after i get the calipers.