Best Cams for a NA h22??

[FASTESTCB7inQNZ]

What is the best cams for NA in a h22?? Im tryin 2 get the most out of my motor.. I plan on rebuilding the whole thing.. I want the best cams without a rough idle.. Cuz it will still b street driven.. Any suggestions??

[minoreparations]

check out the crower site.

[NAiL05]

Depends on what setup you want to run. Stage 2 seem to be fine on crowers.

[FASTESTCB7inQNZ]

i was thinking sbout running on Rocket Motorsport Cams.. Does Anyone know about these cams??

[CB7814]

Check out toda cams

[NAiL05]

There are a bunch of cams more capable than crower. I dunno you can call them and ask or you can look up charts of peoples dynos on HT. TODA VTEC Killer cams or whateverthefuck they called arent really daily driveable. You get a mean ass idle lol. As for the other Todas not too sure.

[deevergote]

If Crower still has their Stage 1.5 or whatever... They're a great choice for a street car. Stock normal lobes and the VTEC lobes of a Stage 2, I believe. More power up top, normal power (and idle... and fuel economy) down low. They aren't the best in terms of overall performance, since there is a considerable dip in power at the crossover... but they make for a fun street car with little compromise. I believ a valvetrain upgrade is still recommended. That is probably what I'm going to go with myself, just so the car won't lose normal drivability.

[Rosko]

try the h22 type-s cams, great cam for d/d with good power gains, plus its oem honda which is always good. if you want to get a little crazier then look at skunk2 pro1's

[minoreparations]

try the h22 type-s cams, great cam for d/d with good power gains, plus its oem honda which is always good. if you want to get a little crazier then look at skunk2 pro1's

it's really not even worth it to put the type-s cams in. for the amount of money you're spending, the gains are to laugh at.

[FASTESTCB7inQNZ]

toda cams are nice but really expensive.. I want something more agressive than stage 2 but still has a normal idle.. I was thinking that Rocket Motorsports was the best bang 4 the buck.. I dont care about the gas $$, dats nothin.. Ima go check out the chart on HT.. I have the chart for the b-series cams, but i kno that the h22 chart is probably different..

[FASTESTCB7inQNZ]

i cant find the h-series cam chart on HT... Can some1 post the link 2 it, if u kno it.. thanx..

[deevergote]

I never saw any chart... of course, I hate H-T. It was once a great site, probably before my time as a tuner... but now I rarely find any useful information there. The majority of the members are idiots feeding each other misinformation, and the people who know their stuff just laugh at them for being ignorant. There are a good number of quality people there (Bisimoto and 2point6, members here, are two of them) but not enough to hold my attention. That's why the anti-flaming rules are so strict here!


Type S cams are great when you get the motor with them... To slap them on a regular H22 is a waste of money, unless you can snag a set for $200 or something. More than that, it's not worth it. I believe I once heard that they can cause improper wear with normal H22 components... I'm not sure how reliable that information is, however. Still, not worth it.

Anyway, take my suggestion seriously... it'd make for a great street motor.
Crower
63422A-2 Features 63422-2 Stage 2 VTEC lobes with stock idle lobes for improved street performance.
Spring/Retainer Kit 84167 required.
Int- 311 mid
Exh-308 mid Int- 255 mid
Exh-248 mid Int- 468 mid
Exh-467 mid


Rocket Motorsports is decent, but they ARE regrinds. You run the risk of improper rocker arm wear using reground cams. I don't recall reading about any problems with them, but in general, regrinds are bad. (I was planning on running a set myself at one point, so that's not a totally biased opinion against them either!) Even Rocket suggests that you upgrade your valvesprings. One friend of mine was told that upgrading the inner springs should be enough (I went and bought some inner springs then... I still have them)


Honestly, though... a FULL valvetrain upgrade from a single manufacturer would be the best idea. The components are designed to work together. Plus, upgrading the rest of your valvetrain will be further insurance of the safety and longevity of your motor. If you spend $400 on some cams and blow your motor, you have a useless piece of scrap. If you spend $1000 on a full valvetrain and a GOOD set of cams, you'll run less of a risk of doing damage due to valve float or spring binding.

Of course, beefier cams will usually see the most gains in the higher rpm range... often times beyond the stock limits. That's another reason to upgrade the springs and such. Be warned though, that even when your head can take an 8500+ rev limit, your bottom end may not be able to. I wouldn't go much above the stock rev limit without strengthening that bottom end as well!



Bolt-ons are easy. I/H/E/pullies are easy to do, and a quick and cheap ECU tune can bring out the best. Once you go under the valve cover, things get a little more involved. To do things right, a whole lot of related things need to be addressed...

[Rosko]

heres a comparison of some of the specs of the stock h22 cams...

http://www.briancrower.com/makes/honda/h22h22a.shtml

yes, type-s cams can cause you problems with retainer to valve guide/seal interferance, but so will most aftermarket cams. the tops of the valve guides can easily be machined down a bit for added clearance. other aftermarket cams have the same problems when you get into higher lifts, which is usually why they are required to run an offset retainer. this is another good reason to keep cams/springs/retainers of the same brand.

theres better cams out there than a type-s, but for a daily driver they would be great. they have made well over 200 hp with the right setup, and i'm also assuming that nobody would just drop these into a stock motor. all a type-s has is a bump in compression, and a bit of factory head work and tuning. nothing that can't be duplicated on a built motor.

I've personally had crowers, the stage 3's. so far an exhaust cam has destroyed itself and a rocker arm, and later on an intake cam broke. All the while I've seen minimal if any power gains. This year I will run skunk2 pro2's

[deevergote]

i'm also assuming that nobody would just drop these into a stock motor.

Don't do that! There are people here that would slap a Stage 3 into a stock motor, and then plan on adding a t25 turbo to the mix...

Unfortunately, CB7s are REALLY cheap. In terms of many of the swaps out there, H22s are REALLY cheap. A lot of people don't want to spend the money to do things right, and dropping $1000 on a proper setup seems excessive when you can just drop in $350 cams and hope for the best!


It's a hard concept to understand when you're working on a 17 year old $800 car, but take the time to do things right. Use quality parts, use the proper parts for the job, use the correct tools, and make sure everything is as it should be. It's quite possible to make 230whp with a motor that will last for years, getting you 28mpg. It's also possible to halfass and cheap out where you shouldn't, end up with a pile of crap, and be dumbfounded when you get no sympathy from those who know why it happened. (none of that is aimed at you, Rosko... just general statements. I agree fully with what you're saying!)

[Rosko]

yup, and i agree with you, do it once, and do it right! and in the end that will ALWAYS be the cheapest route haha