Turbo

[apuforyou]

Alright guys Im posting this in the Beginner section because Im a noob when it comes to turboing. Ive read pleanty of turbo threads the last few days. Still have some questions.

Alright I'll start with the most important question. I have an auto, I dont drive like a ricer or anything. Ive read 4-5 threads with people that had auto that messed up their trannys. If im only pushing 6-8 pounds and not running my car hard will the tranny be alright?

My friend said hes getting me a paxton FMU and possibly a turbo off a 99 eclipse. I beleive its a 16g?

IF not I think I'm going to get a 14b, but I'm still kind of confused on turboing.

I'm probablly going to use a dsm manifold, is the 99 eclipse a 2gen? and can I used that manifold or does it have to be a 1gen. Does it interfere with the motor mount?

I know I need an intercooler but im not sure what size is ideal to fit behind our bumpers, and also how is everyone running their charge pipes?

Im not sure how the oil lines work, and also will I need the 450cc injectors?

Is there a way to switch the turbos over to external wastegate? and also I know I'll need a BOV

Am I forgetting anyother parts? Any help would be appreciated, sorry for the newbish questions

[deevergote]

You've got most of the parts covered. You WILL need to get a chipped ECU and have it tuned, or go with a standalone ECU (which, with a DSM setup, seems unlikely... you'll spend more for that than everything else combined!)

You will need the 450cc injectors.

jonnyracecar intercoolers have always been a good option, but the guy that makes them is temporarilly stopping production... so find a used one if you want to go that route. Otherwise, people have luck with used Mitsubishi Starion or Fuso intercoolers. I had a Starion intercooler in the kit I built.
As for the charge piping, fit it any way you can! You'll probably have to cut your bumper cover a bit to accomodate the intercooler and piping. Before I got my piping, which came from a CB7 (so all I had to do was piece it together), I had the idea of using pool noodles... you know, those foam noodles... to mock up a charge piping route. That way, I could get an idea of how it would fit, and how to cut the piping.

For oil lines, you have to tap your oil pan to install them... a task I wasn't looking forward to. I never got that far before I wrecked the car, so I can't give info based on experience. Search homemadeturbo.com for info, if you can't find any here. Some of the other turbo guys may chime in with more details.

The 99 Eclipse was the last of the 2nd gen, so that should work.

If you can get a 16g, that is best. The 14b is still rather small. Also, the smaller turbo will spool sooner in most cases, meaning you'll be putting more of a strain on the auto tranny. A decently sized turbo will allow you to drive out of boost. When you're playing around and enjoying the car, boost is fun. When you're going to the store for some milk, you don't need to waste the gas OR put the strain on your car!

Ideally, a t3/t4 turbo would be the best choice... like the one MRX is currently running. He makes lots of power (well, did... I don't know if he's up and running again yet), and he can drive out of boost when he wants to. Out of boost, on the highway, I believe he has gotten 32mpg... He knows his way around the ECU though!

As for the external wastegate, I've wondered that myself. I don't believe you can on an internally wastegated turbo, but I could be dead wrong there... someone who knows more on the subject can correct or confirm. Regardless, getting a GOOD external wastegate (Tial is one of the best) would be a VERY wise decision! The easiest way to blow your motor is for an old internal wastegate, or a cheap external wastegate, to fail on you.





Remember, tuning, turbo size, and the wastegate are the most important parts!
Tuning will make power, save fuel, and most importantly, save your motor from blowing up.
Turbo size is important not only because of the need to stay out of boost when you don't need to be, but also because the smaller turbos create more heat. Heat kills engines.
Wastegate... well... If the wastegate fails, your chances of toasting your motor are very high. It'll most likely happen when you're really getting on it. You'll be so busy having fun that you won't be watching the boost gauge (you need one of those too!) By the time you realize what happened, the damage will be done. It may not be total failure, but there will be damage if you overboost...

[NAiL05]

If your gonna keep the auto be sure to tune with uber 1.66 or whatever system you decide to go with.

[Bboy_Trevstuh]

I believe when switching from internal to external wastegate you would have to weld the flapper shut on the exhaust housing side!

[NAiL05]

Couldnt you just pull the diaphragm apart and weld it up or fill it up with something.

[Bboy_Trevstuh]

Well once you take off the downpipe the flapper will just be flapping lol so it's all good!

[apuforyou]

How much redrilling is needed if I use the DSM manifold? Is there alot of problems with the internal wastegates on the mitsubishi turbos?

Id feel safer using an external wastegate, so what are some decent t3/t4 turbos that dont cost a fortune if I go that route?

Will any of this effect the front motor mount and how would I have to modify it?

[Bboy_Trevstuh]

I think you would have to drill out 3 holes at the bottom of the manifold.

Mitsubishi wastegates are know for boost creep!

An you will have to loose your front motor mount, you can fill the others, or make a custom front motor mount bracket.

[apuforyou]

What do you mean by fill the motor mounts?

and any suggestions on non expensive t3/t4 turbos?

[NAiL05]

I suggest spending the money now dont cheap out. He means poly fill them. Makes the mounts stiffer since you wont have a front dogbone mount because the turbo will be there.

[apuforyou]

Would I have to fill the rear motor mount, cause that one seems like a bitch to get to. Would I be fine with just doing the sides?

Its nots that I want to cheap out, I just dont want to spend alot of money to only be pushing 6-8 pounds, but I'm scared of the wastegates on the mitsubishi turbos

anyother suggestions would help

[deevergote]

If you go too cheap, expect something to break. The kit that I built was pretty much intended to blow the motor

The rear IS a bitch to get to, but without the front mount in place, that is the MOST important one to fill. Pull the intake manifold off and it's not THAT bad. Do an F22A6 manifold swap while you're at it


Spend your money on a good t3/t4. It's cheaper than buying a 14b, and potentially a new motor and transmission. Less work, too!

[apuforyou]

Ok sorry for all the confusion, I decided I want a 16g but if I cant get my hands on one Ill go with a 14b

Which ecu would I need? a p06? How much would one run me and does mrx use uber?

[Bboy_Trevstuh]

You can talk to tim(Backfire32) at the meet for a tune lol but yea you'll need a p06!

[Charlie240sxt]

From what i read you should go with the 16g the wastegate should be fine as long as you get everything setup the right way on stock boost that is. search search search i dont even have a accord anymore and i've been doing mad searching find others that already done what you want and look at there setups(IE charge pipes) probly be best to have the motor out to fill mounts and slap the oil drain in but you dont have to