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Brakes all around

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    #1

    Brakes all around

    so I finished my brakes. all my brakes. I did pads and rotors all the way around the car and replaced my two rear calipers. however, because of the extensive brake work I did, just about ALL of my brake fluid has flushed through the system and ended up in an oil pan on my garage floor.

    my question is about bleeding my brakes. I know I need to start from the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder first but I don't know if there is a specific way of bleeding when starting from a clean slate.

    should I jack up my rear passenger side tire and open the bleeder BEFORE I start to poor fluid in so is pushes any air out. Or should I keep the bleeder closed fill the system, then move from tire to tire and fill up system as I need to. Any feedback would be great guys, thanks a lot.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Close all the bleeders, fill the system, then bleed in the proper order. Check the fluid reservoir frequently and keep adding more fluid as you bleed them because if that reservoir goes dry and air gets sucked in then you have to start over.

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      #3
      I am not an expert so don't quote me on this. If I am wrong, someone please correct me. I have the Haynes manual in the car, and I think it says to do the wheel furthest away and work towards the master cylinder. I think last time I did mines (I did on a diagonal, which turned out fine), I started at the driver rear, then did the passenger front, then the passenger rear, then the driver front. If you give me a minute I can go look at the book.

      Close all the bleeders, fill the system, then bleed in the proper order. Check the fluid reservoir frequently and keep adding more fluid as you bleed them because if that reservoir goes dry and air gets sucked in then you have to start over.
      That's good advice.
      Last edited by Straight Success; 12-26-2007, 04:57 PM.
      The Lord watches over me!

      "Stop punching down on my people!!!"

      - D. Chappelle

      Comment

        #4
        that would be cool, thanks a lot man but starting furthest away from the bleeder sounds like the best route. And filling the system sounds right. Thanks a lot guys

        if I play my cards right, my cb7 may be driveable by the end of the night for the first time in months

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          #5
          if u did pads and rotors y is your fluid out of the system? did you drain it or did it overflow frum your resevor? if it overflowd then you need to wash everytihng before it eats away your paint bro!

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            #6
            Well he said he did rear calipers as well, but honestly if you didn't disconnect the front calipers not a lot of fluid should be missing. But either way bleed them as described above.
            -Josh

            91 Accord LX Sedan 5-speed (daily/project) - JDM H22A swap
            91 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab 5-speed 2.3L (broke)

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              #7
              ^^^ I pressed the rotors on and off which required taking the knuckle off the car. I don't have that tool that is mentioned in another thread that pulls hubs right off (saving up for that ) but on the drivers side I needed to replace the wheel bearing and on the passenger side I needed to replace the lower ball joint. Rather than having the calipers hanging, I just took them off and let them drain in a bucket in my garage which kept the soft brake line open and allowing the fluid to drain freely.

              Bottom line it's all bled for the most part, I just have a little bit of air left in the system so I need to bleed again to get the brake pedal hard.

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