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Experience w Shaving Door Moldings?

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    Experience w Shaving Door Moldings?

    I am shaving the door moldings on my car. We will take the drivers door for example....Where it meets the front (drivers side) fender the molding "tappers off", so that the door can open and close correctly. Well If I shave everything to "square" how will this let the door open?

    Here is the passenger side example. See where the Bondo ends? If you look on all accords the molding usually tappers off. What can I do here?



    Here is what it looked like



    --------------------------------------^
    Here's what I'm talking about where it recesses.
    Last edited by AccordAnimal; 02-08-2006, 09:22 AM.

    #2
    Is that all bondo? That might have been your first mistke so. Should tackedo n some sheet metal on thier first that bondo may crack very easily with the use of the opening and closing the doors so much..But to asnwer your question no you should be fine. Pme rebels (Adam) he'' answer your question .

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      #3
      Bump

      When you say "no your should be fine". Just looking at it I can see that if I square each end off they are going to hit each other.

      Look at this members ride

      http://www.cb7tuner.com//vbb/showthr...t=shaved+doors

      I can't figure it out. My are certain to hit, I'll go back out there and try it again.
      Last edited by AccordAnimal; 02-08-2006, 10:59 AM.

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        #4
        only reason why the molding tapers off is so that it won't hit the fender molding.


        but also have to ask if you only used bondo?? coz if so, that will crack immediately from the vibration the door gets from opening/closing the door. as mentioned, metal should have been placed ove the gaps to prevent pre-mature cracking that happens to bondo.
        5.6L V8 32V DOHC
        JDM HERITAGE - US BUILT

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          #5
          its got to be done right. there is more than just filling in the gaps. i know on some peoples cars it has to be grooved in so the door doesnt hit.

          for example.



          mmmmmmmmmmmmmm....... DOHC

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            #6
            I agree with the other guys, this definitely needs to be done the right way if you didn't tack weld in sheet metal first. Bondo should only be used as a substriat to correct any imperfections that cannot be fixed with steel. You need to get your hands on a mig welder.....
            1992 Accord LX - SOLD

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              #7
              props on doing it urself!

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                #8
                The molding is tapered because it sticks out past the plane of the sheet metal. Go ahead open that door you already mudded up. It will open fine. Otherwise the rest of the door would have to be tapered too.
                It really is a labor of love making a neglected CB7 with "normal wear and tear" into something worth being proud of.

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                  #9
                  I just tried (mudded both sides) and the door catches on the mudd on the fender. Ugh. I think I'm gonna have to tapper it.

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                    #10
                    i did my door mouldings with kitty hair fibreglass instead of bondo and they havent cracked or shifted at all since it was done almost a year ago. the kitty hair is a pain in the ass to sand tho.

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                      #11
                      Kitty hair is a combination of fiberglass and bondo, thats why it has held up. Fiberglass is an alternative to welding in metal that will work as well. If your bondo is hitting your fender there are a few things to look for.

                      It doesn't appear that you have sanded the bondo you have on the car yet so....
                      Make sure on the outer edge of the bondo along the outer edge of the door it is even.
                      Make sure your bondo is in fact level with the rest of the door.

                      If both of these things have been done right then your door will shut without rubbing. Like it has allready been said the moulding is recessed so as not to hit the fender moulding. If you had to taper in the bondo'd part you would also have to taper in the rest of the door which leads to something else not being in place.

                      Make sure your fender line is straight and level with your door when your door is closed. Either your fender or door need to be adjusted...

                      Hopefully this helps. And please if you do not have a welder get some fiberglass. You can get a small kit from autozone for less than 30 bucks with everything you need. Put about 5-6 layers to fill then a very last very thin layer of bondo, or glazing putty which i'd recommend, to smoothen things out. Anythimg more than "1/8 of Bondo is too much bondo. Check those three things and you should be good...


                      Member's Ride

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                        #12
                        Thanks for all the tips guys.

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