I have 2 Kicker CVR-12's I'm running in a sealed box...so basically I need ~600-800W RMS @ 4 ohms. I'm thinking of something by MA Audio most likely, or maybe something by Profile...what should I get? Is anyone selling anything?
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Originally posted by lordoja -
go MTX, that's my suggestion...i have never had any problems with overheating or anything, and i live in florida...they are as reliable as an AK-47...kicker also makes good amps..very dependable..you will just have to look at what you want...especially if you care about looks..
also, what is the RMS rating on your subwoofer..you dont need to say 300-400w RMS per sub, there should be a definite number, and if you want to keep that stuff working, dont feed it more power than it should be getting..so do you want 300w RMS per sub, or 400w RMS per sub?
here is a kicker 300x2 amp:
http://69.93.14.227/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=287Last edited by mondojackal; 10-22-2005, 02:49 PM.
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No, it's better to overpower the sub than to underpower and clip it...that's how subs blow. There's usually a decent safety factor built into the sub. They're rated at 400 each though @ 2 ohms parallel...so basically it would be a 4ohm load.
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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I got a rockford 1 channel 900 watt u kno my add come pick it up i want 150Comment
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exactly, power doesnt kill subs, distortion and clipping does.Originally posted by gloryaccordy
id stay from cheap brands like profile if you can...
alpine is my weapon of choice.FA1
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ive got an audiobahn a8000t 1600 watt peak 800 watt rms at 2 ohms 400 watt rms at 4 ohms. id be willing to part with it if youd like.
My Members Ride Thread
Originally posted by deevergote
You have to think outside the box to get IN the box!Comment
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ok, thats the biggest load ofOriginally posted by gloryaccordy
i have seen here in a while...
never can too little power blow your speakers...it will only cause your total volume to not be as loud..if too little power would blow your speakers, you would have to play them at full volume all the time, and never lower the volume...you need to know what you are talkin about before you start stating what you have heard as if it were disreputable fact...
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Dude, there's no need to get offensive. I'm speaking science. Underpowering the speaker is worse than overpowering it, point blank period...obviously if you put 4000W into 6.5" with an xmax (I'm sure you're like huh @ this point) of like 3mm, you're definitely gonna blow the speaker up; but underpowering is just as bad...
When the amp is working in its range of power, it's delivering the signal as it is; a smooth signal with no abrupt changes. But when the amp is putting out signal that is out of its power range, it clips the top of the signal off and makes it flat. This is bad, because 1. the speaker keeps moving because of its inertia has no force acting on it, and 2. the voice coil doesn't really like signals with discontinuity, especially with a VC for a sub. I think the discrepancy between the position of the speaker and where the VC wants to be is what makes the VC heat up and eventually melt, leaving you with a speaker that is stuck in one position forever...
Dude not to brag but I'm a mechanical engineer, I've taken acoustics (where we took a month to learn about speaker design) and "baby circuits" (where we learn about inductors, capacitors and resistors- the loudspeaker is a combination of an inductor and a resistor)...so don't just write me off. I'm not writing you off...maybe you know something I don't...but seriously, if you think I'm wrong, take your expensive subs, hook them up to a decent brand low-power amp and crank it, and see what happens. A friend of mine has a 2000W RMS MA Audio amp powering 2 MA Audio 12s that are rated at like 500W RMS, and he has yet to blow a sub...and they're in a PORTED box...and he bumps his sh*t continuously, so...yea, that's that. I'm not here to prove you wrong, but let's deal with facts and science, please.
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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why would i be like "huh" i know more than you do about car audio obviously...Originally posted by gloryaccordy
for facts and science, try going to Try going to section #29
basic car audio electronics...and click on "too little power" there is an article just for people like you..
you are simply saying that you are going to feed a 6.5" woofer with 4000watts of power with a peak excursion of 3mm... which is rather absurd of an xmax, but still, who cares, you were just trying to look like you knew way more than i did...
most people should have at least some idea of what the general TS parameter designations are before they get on some forum and blab...thing is most people dont know of or about TS parameters...
anyways, here they are for everyone who wants them (these should be stickied in this subforum):
Thiele/Small Parameters (not all):
SD:
Effective piston area of the cone. It will vary slightly from one 10 inch (or any other size) to another but does not vary enough to make a difference in the performance of the driver.
Xmax:
By definition it is the peak linear travel of a driver. If you measure the distance that the voice coil can travel in the gap (in one direction) while the number of turns in the gap doesn't change, you have the Xmax. If you go past this point, the actual windings in the voice coil start to leave the gap. The diagram below shows the voice coil at its maximum travel at point of max linear travel and just past its point of max linear travel.
BL:
BL is determined by the flux density (B) in the magnetic gap and the length (L) of voice coil wire in the gap. A higher BL will generally mean a speaker will have a higher relative sensitivity (efficiency). This doesn't necessarily mean that all speakers with a higher BL will produce a higher SPL. Often speakers with very high BLs have a smaller Xmax.
'R E ':
This is the DC resistance of the voice coil. It will be lower than the rated impedance of the speaker. A 4 ohm speaker may have a DC voice coil resistance of 3.3-3.8 ohms.
Resonance:
'fs':
Free air (not in an enclosure) resonance of the driver. All speakers have a resonant frequency. At this frequency, the impedance increases significantly.
'fc':
This is the resonant frequency in a sealed enclosure. The resonant frequency will tend to be higher but the impedance will not go as high.
'no':
This is the reference efficiency. It is usually expressed as xdB when driven by one watt and measured at a distance of one meter. Ex: 89dB/1w/1m.
too little power cannot mess up a speaker...read my above example...the sub gets less power when you turn down the volume on your HU controlling your RMS-wattage-matched amp and sub combo...therefore, the same thing happens when you underpower a sub..Originally posted by gloryaccordy
i will agree with you that the square "clipping" (clipping being producing a pure square wave, rather than the nice, clean pure sine wave) of sine waves is what causes subwoofer damage, but too little power doesnt automatically cause clipping, clipping is caused by an amp too small driving too hard to push a sub...while this is an example that fits your "underpowered" example...its not the low power that kills a sub, its the clipped signal that it recieves from the amp that is trying too hard to drive the sub...just what you said, the amp's distorted signal is what destroys the sub, not the insufficient power for full excursion (xmax)... the reason that clipped signals damage subs is that they almost double their power when they begin clipping...forcing the too-small amp to produce more power causes the clipping, which DOES create more power, just not clean audio power...
any sub that doesnt have its Thiele-Small parameters met isnt going to be destroyed by the amp powering it if the amp is properly set up...many people who have subwoofers like Resonant Engineering XXX or SX subs dont have the money to give the XXX's 1600w RMS, so they take whatever they have, and give it to that sub, and it happily takes it, and booms the hell out of their car...TOO LITTLE POWER DOES NOT DAMAGE SUBWOOFERS!!!!
ok, im off my soapbox now..gloryaccordy, im me sometime, we can chat about car audio...you seem to know what you are talkin about..Comment
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But also am doing mechanical engineering.
And yea about the clipping he is right its better to have a more powerful amp and turn the gain's down than have a less powerful amp and have the gains all the way up.
Whats the budget on the amp?
When crutchfield had that sale of mb quarts I bought a RAA 1000 amp for around 250 after all the discounts. I never got the chance to really hook it up yet but from what I see its a pretty bad ass amp. 1k watts at 1ohm CEA comlpiant and all.
Also You could check out the kenwood monoblock amps also they are cea also and they put out some good power.
Check out this kenwood for $199
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Yea the Kenwood's sound pretty good, I saw a few on Ebay...I need a stereo amp though...
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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Why do you need a stereo amp? Cant you bridge that kenwood down to 2ohms and call it a day?Originally posted by gloryaccordy
I wish I had 2 XXX right now.....But they are sooo damm pricey but hey you pay for what u get.Originally posted by mondojackalComment
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darn right...i want 2 XXX's and two arc audio 1000w amps for them...
agh, if only i had that kind of money..Comment
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Originally posted by gloryaccordy
okay if both subs are rated 400watts each at 2ohm.. and u hook both parallel thats a 1ohm load unless u meant u hooked it up in series to get 4ohm load..
just like a battery if u hook 2 batteries in parallel its still 12v but if u hook the 2 up in series the voltage doubles to 24v...http://www.get-gifts-for-free.com/?ref_id=4810
1992 Honda Accord 4dr 5spd EX- R.I.P 8/10/05Comment
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U gotta go wit Punch power series. I gotta Punch power 1501 bd (750w x 1 @ 4 ohm, 1500w x 1 @ 2 ohm) pushin 4 Alpine Type R 12s, and I can literally run my amp sky high all day without the amp overheating, and barely even getting warm. Unless... u got the $$ to go wit Phoenix Gold.
Last edited by goldenchild722; 10-22-2005, 11:12 PM.Comment
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