okay so i have a port and polished head. with a level 2 bisimoto cam, and springs. i am in fear of bending a valve so i want to get bigger and nicer ones. i was told to put s2000 valves in. i have been trying to research this but come up blank. any help would be helpful. im just trying to find a bigger nicer valve that's not super pricey.
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
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question about valve spring in a built head
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question about valve spring in a built head

Red Wagon DD - 1993 EX
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=172734
Gray Wagon Project - 1992 LX
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=166337Tags: None
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Valves are cheap
I don't know if you have ever looked at it, but compared to the rest of the mods you mentioned valves are cheap...
Getting bigger valves will not prevent you from bending them, nor will aftermarket ones. You need to make sure that you do not have piston to valve contact.
Just upgrading valves will not make it ok, you need to atleast do some math, and you SHOULD CLAY THE MOTOR to make sure there is enough room.
Also who p&p'd your head. Did they do a valve seat job?
Putting aftermarket oversized valves in a motor that does not have the seats matched to them is a bad idea. Or atleast a way to promote problems and a loss of power.
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i did the p&p with my friend who know what there doing. i did not do a seat job. but i will talk to him about it.
thanks for the advice.
im trying to figure out what valve to buy than cause everyone says ill mess up the stock ones. but nobody can tell me why. i know that i have some math to do. im just trying to figure out what valve to buy for my head build.
Red Wagon DD - 1993 EX
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=172734
Gray Wagon Project - 1992 LX
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=166337
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P&p
I am not explicitly doubting your friend, however what experience does he have with p&p on the f22a head (assuming its an f22a).
Just because someone has done P&P work on other heads and seen results does not mean they will with this head. Honda heads flow pretty damn well from factory and it is easy to make them flow worse, especially in the low end.
If you look around the forum even the guru's end up sending their heads off to be P&P'd because it takes mathematical modeling (solid works / cosmo) and a lot of tries / bench testing to get a good profile. Once you have that profile you then need a CNC machine to cut it for you, then the good ones are polished by hand last.
I am not saying it is impossible to get better flow from a hand unplanned P&P job, but it is much more probable that it will yield no or worse results.
recommend them.
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he has done many b and d series head and a couple k's and done srt4 heads. and the shop we do it at the boss man has over 40 years messing with hondas. its probably not as good as a true shop but i am betting is close. i have such little money. and i learning in the process so it might take a coupe trials. my main concern is valves but i cant find any helpful people. im not if i should buy stock new one or find some simple performance ones.
Red Wagon DD - 1993 EX
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=172734
Gray Wagon Project - 1992 LX
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=166337
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you wouldnt mess up the stock valves, if you are messy with the die grinder, you might knick the seat. if you put a large enough gash in the 45* seat, the valves will then leak. after a true port and polish, id highly recommend a valve job. I usually cut the seats on a machine and finish off by hand. it's a lengthy process but you need to make sure those valves seat well.
stock contact valve seat are way too wide for performance. id rather have a performance valve job over a port and polish any day of the week.
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