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Bisi Rods vs Crower Rods

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    Bisi Rods vs Crower Rods

    With my up coming F22a1 Build I will be putting nothing but the best(Or atleast close) into this swap/build. The engine is going into a hatch for Autox/Time Attack

    I am looking at rods and pistons.
    Price is not a factor in this build although I will show the difference in price.



    Crower Rods - $770.38 USD
    Bisi Rods - $319.00 USD (I believe F22 rods are available although it doesn't state it)

    Please discuss what would be best for turbo build. High amount of psi.
    Last edited by Reignstarz; 12-03-2010, 02:51 PM.

    #2
    Originally posted by Reignstarz View Post
    With my up coming F22a1 Build I will be putting nothing but the best(Or atleast close) into this swap/build. The engine is going into a hatch for Autox/Time Attack

    I am looking at rods and pistons.
    Price is not a factor in this build although I will show the difference in price.



    Crower Rods - $770.38 USD
    Bisi Rods - $319.00 USD (I believe F22 rods are available although it doesn't state it)

    Please discuss what would be best for turbo build. High amount of psi.
    I don't expect that either rod will fail, and both have ARP hardware I believe. I would look at the weights. Get whichever is lighter.
    There are no black and white suspension answers!!!!!!!!!!!

    Comment


      #3
      bisimoto rods are probably cheap h beam rods which will be good for about 400-500hp.

      if you want nothing but the best look into the pauter x rods or crowers makes a decent piece.
      I <3 G60.

      0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

      Comment


        #4
        I think LoDollar had good things to say about his Carillo's, those cost a pretty penny I believe.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Granite CB7 View Post
          I think LoDollar had good things to say about his Carillo's, those cost a pretty penny I believe.
          yes, they were expensive, but i have the peace of mind knowing i will never break them.

          instagram @mikeymeyagi

          Comment


            #6
            There are Titanium rods out there too.....just saying.
            There are no black and white suspension answers!!!!!!!!!!!

            Comment


              #7
              bisi might be cheaper, but think about it, bisi wouldnt sell cheap parts. get em.

              Comment


                #8
                but bisi himself doesnt use the cheap stuff, so why would he care? he probably gets those rods, inspects them and marks them up 30%.

                it's going to be h beams which are heavier than an "I" beam rod, plus you may need to notch the block.
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                Comment


                  #9
                  true, but would you rather pay the $400 extra dollars

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i actually like getting stuff right from the source. mine was cheaper than his and it's the same as eagle.

                    if i was running a good motor, it'd be an i beam setup which there was a set on ebay going for about 300 bucks.

                    edit: it's no longer there. the closest one i could find is here. http://www.mosaicmotorsports.com/blu...ds-p-9000.html
                    Last edited by wed3k; 12-09-2010, 12:08 AM.
                    I <3 G60.

                    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Carillos are nice Pauters are too...

                      Eagle H beams are absolutely fine and with 3/8 shank ARPP 2000s rated to 900 HP.

                      Im making 750 on them with no issues. At all.


                      Dont forget:

                      RPM = Ruins peoples Motors



                      RPMS are what stresses the rod bolts, not power. The rods arent going to break anywehere near as soon as the bolts fail. Ask me how I know.

                      That last motor I had making 650 + whp for over three years flogged relentlessly to 9K had Eagles in it (and the small 5/16 shank ARP 2000s, and had the same rods (and bolts) used in 4 motor builds... Thats 11+ tq ings... Thats a no no. RUle of thumb is that you should change the bolts out every build.Theyre cheap. Only reason my last motor came apart is that I hadnt changed the small bolts after so many uses. I would have caught it if I wasnt lazy and would have checked stretch instead of simply TQing them LOL.


                      The Crower Econos are H beam as well, but they ARE about 1mm "thicker " than the Eagles...


                      I have absolute faith in Eagles though... Or they wouldnt be in my motor.



                      That being said, Id go with H22 eagle rods and th Wiseco EVO stroker pistons (That have the wristpins moved up making it work in the F) look up ashb on HT for details.)

                      You will NOT have to notch the block.


                      PROFIT
                      750 WHP/575 TQ CD5 Raping a street near you....
                      realHomeMadeTurbo.com / Kaizenspeed.com / LSD Motorsports / Tempest Racing /SpeedFactory /ExplicitSpeedPerformance

                      GFI HOLLA!!!!!!


                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cdiz0k0Rudw

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