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What to do next, unsure...

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    What to do next, unsure...

    now this isnt one of those hypothetical threads. i have the money now to spend... about 2k.

    at first i was thinking about high comp valves, sleeving, 11.5 pistons and shotpeen the stock rods. but then i was thinking all that would be a waste of money if i cant flow that much.

    so im considering the following:
    1000-hytech header
    300-euro r manifold
    300-70mm tb
    300-440cc rc injectors
    200-msd ignition

    i think after that list ill be done, not forever, but a long long time. i want to make as much power as possible, and keep the motor stock. what do you guys think? anything or something else i should do? is there a weak link im forgetting?

    #2
    Ok.. for starters.. have u made a ride thread? and if so i apologize for not looking at it.. lol.. what are ur current mods?? im assuming ur done/or are happy with ur valvetrain setup? a more aggressive cam is in order.. IMO anyway.. go big or go home.. with the money u have to spend

    for the 300-euro R/300 70mm tb= id rather spend that 600 on a ported oem manifold and u can have ur stock tb bored out to 66-68mm i believe for 100 from maxbore.com.. lets try to save u some money without sacrificing your goals..
    the euro R althought flows better im sure could use improvement.. so why not skip all that? and port out ur oem manifold..
    the msd ignition i dont see u really needing.. ur keeping the stock rev limit right(or within range).. id only suggest this for ppl with race setups and or turbo/nitrous applications.. on most daily drivers (even with a good amount of work done) they can run just fine with stock ignition system with a upgraded coil/wires

    440cc injectors are very important.. this brings up another point.. what are u using to tune? please dont say vafc.. sure its good and all but for dumping the money u are vafc just isnt gonna cut it at all.. as for the 1000 on the header.. honestly.. i cant justify that.. sure.. they have a damn good header.. well then.. do yourself a favor and copy it.. take as many pictures/dimensions u can find on it.. and go find someone that u trust and feel will do a good job and have them copy the hytech header.. sounds fucked up no?? well.. im glad they did the r&d on it.. now its time to find a way to make it for cheap..
    u could cut the price of the hytech in half (using high quality materials) if u did it yourself.. its up to u.. i plan on doing this myself..
    some more food for thought... ever wondered on alcohol injection??
    something along the lines of a nitrous kit that would have a spray nozzle in the intake pipe..? wouldnt necc have to be used all the time.. maybe just on those days where u want an extra edge/kick.. not only does water/alcohol injection cool the motor.. and make power.. but it also cleans it as well.. im tired so ill go into a lil more detail once u give me ur full setup


    edit silly me.. clicked on ur sig lol
    JDM 93 H22a
    Chipped P72 Ecu
    NGK Wires
    NGK Plugs
    3" cold air intake
    Crower Stage 2 cams
    Crower Dual Valvesprings
    Crower Titanium Retainers
    Skunk2 Camgears
    DC Ceramic Header
    2.5" headerback exhaust w/obx muffler
    Apexi Vafc

    ok.. from this list.. im assuming the vafc is just for fine tuning? is the p72 permanently chipped? or are u using uberdata?.. id definetly get rid of that DC header.. thats probably choking up power as is.. i strongly suggest u copy the hytech or some other top end header (an-r/smsp/prospeed) etc..
    besides what i listed above this have u considered a U.R crank pulley? releases alot of power for a decent cost..
    Last edited by WiKKeDV16; 02-23-2005, 04:52 AM.


    Praise The Lowered...

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      #3
      i say definately go for a clutch/flywheel combo next...even then u still have $1400-1600 left over

      Maxbore TB
      I don't think i could ever justify spending $1000 on a header myself but to each his own.
      I think i'd rather go for Type S pistons and a 50-75 shot instead of the hytech header. And you'll STILL have enough left over for slicks
      Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

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        #4
        get the pistons and geta thinner headgasket and better fuel management. go and get a header made by smsp or anr

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          #5
          what about a bigger fuel pump for the bigger injectors? walbro 255lph pump? ive seen them for like 80 bucks


          Originally posted by fizzbob7
          first off, don't be a sissy bitch.....that's what you're being
          Originally posted by ACC0RD22
          no need to get sand in your vagina over this guys.
          So. Cal OUTLAWZ

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            #6
            Originally posted by arrozburner
            what about a bigger fuel pump for the bigger injectors? walbro 255lph pump? ive seen them for like 80 bucks
            nah, just an FPR would suffice instead of the fuel pump
            Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

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              #7
              2.5" exhaust piping necessary for an H22? or is it better for to use a 2.25" for more mid to high range power?
              HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)

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                #8
                agreed in most high hp h22a's "stock intenals" ive seen someone pushing some serious numbers on h-t and he was just now tapping out his stock injectors.. so upgraded injectors and fpr should suffice.. oh and antoine from that list i excluded anything that wasnt motor related.. he has a Act clutch i believe already and a flywheel..
                id still copy the hytech header lol..


                Praise The Lowered...

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                  #9
                  dont forget the lil things like pulleys (if u dont have them, i didnt read....lol).
                  u plan to increase the compression why not invest in a custom intake mani, or a port one????
                  for the headers if u got after market, i say stick with it, 1000bux for headers is crazy to me, it might be one of those things u buy then be like.....got damn, i cant beleave i spent some much on this and its not to much of a difference.
                  NEED RAP BEATS.....

                  www.soundclick.com/akcidentaltrakz

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                    #10
                    i thought about getting a light pulley, but ive heard bad things about them for the h-series. it could all be hype, but im not gonna take a chance.

                    that list is kinda outa date. or maybe i just forgot a few things. i do have a 255walbro and fpr. and now the vafc is just sitting there for looks. all the settings are at zero, and my car was tuned with a romulator(laptop setup for those who dont know).

                    before i actually pay for the header im gonna talk to someone about getting a copy made. its not the easiest thing to find though... everyone hascopies of b-series headers, but never a H.

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                      #11
                      You are not going to need injectors, the stock 345's have plenty of rom to spare and you aren't going to max them your all motor setup.

                      You can buy them and just retune for the larger injector but you don't need it.

                      Don't increase fuel pressure from the injectors required pressure, that changes the injectors spray pattern and could cause undesired results.

                      An MSD ignition is not a bad idea, the difference it makes is noticable. However I don't see where you are going to find one for $200. You should go with either an SCI-L (6320) or a Digital 6 (6520) the digital 6 is the better unit and you can find them relatively cheap on eBay. Do not go with a 6A-L or 6A there is a difference between the 6A and SCI line, It took some R&D but I did find that out, it's not only marketing.

                      Also purchase the MSD Blaster SS coil (8207) thats a great coil and works very well when teamed up with the ignition amps.

                      A 70mm TB in my opinion is over kill on a stock displacement H22. That's just little to big in my opinion, the bottom end is going to suffer some from the loss of intake charge velocity. I think you should just enlarge yours or go with a Type-R TB (2mm bigger then the H).

                      The Euro-R manifold also makes a noticable difference but you MUST tune for it. When I first installed mine it felt like the car fell on it's face but after tuning the improvement was considerably noticeable. If possible I would suggest tring to get the actual Euro-R IACV. I did the mods like 2point6 outlined and just so happens the IACV I choose was fucking broken! I had to use a Civic IACV because I no longer had the Accords and I didn't like the direction the Preludes plug when. Figures the Civic one I used is messed up and now the valve is all nicely honda bonded and secured to my Euro-R. No matter hopefully next month I'll get the actuall Euro-R IACV. Currently I have the valve blocked off and I'm using no IACV, so my idle's a bit higher with the A/C off and just right with the A/C on. Just a little annoying. I do have the valve plugged in though so I get no CEL.

                      About the header.... I really don't know. It's very expensive and the results could go either way. I wouldn't fuck with a knock off though. If yo uare going to buy it just buy the right thing. I think that $1000 on a header though is to steep.

                      Is that the only header you like? Maybe there are some other good choices?

                      I would also contact 2point6 about that intake he's working on with ICEMAN. That sounds like it's going to be a pretty worthwhile mod. If I didn't already have my custom made CAI and engine compartment wasn't so customized I might consider it... shit if the price is right I still might consider it... Talk to him that might be a great mod for you.
                      My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

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