Ive put a couple engines together in the past but they were all stock rebuilds. The f22a im building now is my first custom build. Im going to be running wiseco pistons (9:1 cr), on bisimoto forged steel rods. Arp bolts everyehere and acl bearings. Im looking at running a general t3\t4 housed turbo somewhere in the .63ar range. When i get this thing running and done how much boost pressure\power do you more experienced guys i can push and still be relatively safe? i dont want to push it to hard and blow shit up but im not familiar with the limits of the parts included in my bottom end. I know its a general question and all but i dont wanna set the boost controller at 15-18lbs from the start if the motor cant handle it.
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set the boost low at 6-8 lbs till you tune it and see how much it can handle. -
How do i know when im pushing the limits though?Comment
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Well your motor will be built so you can prob crank up the boost higher than most people. Comes down to the limit of the sleeves. It would probably be a good idea to get a new water pump + upgraded radiator while you have the shit all taken apart too. Gotta support the boost.
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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Oh definately. All parts im using are fresh out the box. And yeah xooling system will be upgraded as well. No doubts there man.Originally posted by gloryaccordy View PostComment
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I'm currently 4680 miles into my rebuilt motor with forged rods/pistons. I'm currently logging 39lbs/min@26-28 psi on an evo 3 16g.
That's in the ballpark of 320-330 whp. I've had no issues. Well, I blew a clutch, and some hoses and such but that's typical. Shit was old, needed replaced. I intentionally blew the old motor while working my tune out. She handled 22psi for about 800 miles before showing signs the rings were shot. When I pulled the motor, there were no signs of failure anywhere in the rotational assembly, asides from the Ringlands. I did have a slightly bent rod, but she was still running when I pulled it.
As far as cooling options, I'm rocking a dual core aluminum civic radiator. Oem. I upgraded the pusher/puller fans, but otherwise its relatively a stock coolant system. I run a 180 degree thermostat as well, but otherwise its pretty much oem w/out getting hot.
Civic radiator mod was for space, not really necessary for cooling.
Hope that helps.
I'm sure there's others that can chime in as well. Lots of power being supported by oem crankshaft/sleeves.Originally posted by wed3kComment
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Thats good info man. Thanks for the inputComment
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A "built" motor wont do shit if you dont know how to tune.
Keep cranking the boost to see what it can handle, LOL. What a joke. You get 1 chance if you detonate, thats the last chance.
Get that thing on a dyno tune, and get an AFR meter, and start tuning.What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
Retro!
Hater
I love nooBs...They make me look good
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I am. The brand new aem wideband is sitting on a shelf in the garage and the local honda tuner to me is known as one of the best on the gulf coast. He is already waiting for the phone call. Corr Performance will be tuning my car.Comment
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Thats good im glad. I just get all worked up about retards putting boost in thinking they are hot shit, when really they are "hoping" their shit wont blow...or using the same settings as someone elses tune, thinking it will be fine.Originally posted by JustSomeGuy View Post
Get some dyno vids when you do get your car up and going man.
May the force be with you
What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
Retro!
Hater
I love nooBs...They make me look goodComment
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afr meters are meh. tune it, datalog it and be done.
my supercharged vw, i didnt even setup my wideband on it and im running 13 psi. i hope it doesnt blow, lol.Comment
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There are other ways to tune then a wideband, but wideband is 100% the best way to get a reading on air fuel mixtures.
Other then that, its a guessing game and a fact collecting mission. I agree though that a datalog is very important as well.
Sounds like the op has a solid plan.Originally posted by wed3kComment
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