Announcement

Collapse

Please DO NOT Post In The General Section

From this point on until otherwise briefed, posting in the general section of Performance Tech is prohibited. The only thing to remain here will be the stickies. We would just delete this section, but that would cause unintended results.


The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.


For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.


Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.

Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
See more
See less

90mm reliability?

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    90mm reliability?

    chances are im gonna be building the bottomend. has anyone heard any reliability issues with boring to 90mm? ive seen a couple pics and the sleeves look really thin. the motor has a closed deck, so would that help with the integrity of the block? its gonna cost me the same whether i stay 87 or go bigger, so i would like to go bigger... get my moneys worth. but this is my only car, so i want it to remain reliable.

    what kind of power gains are usually seen with piston swaps? ill be going from 10.6 to 11.5, any ideas?
    Tags: None
    #2
    Why are you rebuilding?? Did you have a problem or are you just upgrading.
    FS: BNIB MFactory FD $650, PM me.

    Comment

      #3
      problms unfortunetly...

      we're still not sure what the cause is, but coolant is getting into #1. the HG is fine, so its either a cracked head or block. im gonna do another leakdown in the next day or so, and im gonna do again also with the cams out so i can do a test with the pistons at the bottom of their stroke... to test the walls.

      if its the head, which i hope since itll be cheaper to fix... im doing the following.
      -p&p head
      -flat valves
      -euro-r manifold w/tb(maybe)

      if its the bottomend, its gonna cost alot more. if im going to do it at all, i wanna do it right... which isnt cheap. im gonna bore to 89mm, wiseco 11.5's, probe/crower rods and of course polish/balance the crank. the completed block plus install/uninstall of the motor is gonna run about $2300. it would be nice to have the fat power itll bring, but im trying to only go on necessity for now... but its kinda clashing with my "do it right the first time" attitude.

      Comment

      Previous template Next
      Working...
      X