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A6 mani, no ECU

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    A6 mani, no ECU

    Kay, i've searched for it and couldn't find anything so I was wondering how would it be possible to rig the a6 manifold with dual runners to my a4 without using the ECU. I've heard alot about rigging vacuum lines, can you guys help?
    Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races.

    #2
    Which one the vacuum hose to the IM? Or you can just rig it open but you low end is gonna suck ass.

    The New-ish Ride
    My old Ride
    Hear my Vtak!!!
    MK3 Member #3
    I piss off people for fun.
    IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1

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      #3
      if you run it to any vacuum between the throttle body and head, it will open right before it normally would and the difference is 1 or 2 hp
      ....and on the 7th day, deevergote rested and called his mom.

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        #4
        It isn't going to run off a PT3 ECU, as the ECU has no accomodation for it.

        If you are set on using the ECU, I would just pick up an A6 (PT6) ECU and follow all of the DIY instructions on the site. That ECU is fairly common, and should be pretty cheap.

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          #5
          that or use a tach trigger. Set it at the RPM you want the secondary runners to kick in at.

          My Accord History:
          91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

          -Patrick

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            #6
            How could i rig a tach trigger? Also, I was thinking, maybe running a cord from the 2nd runners through the firewall where the cruise control used to be and manually open it?
            Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races.

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              #7
              After it hits a certain RPM it hits volatage and opens up the secondaries as i think thats what it would do.

              The New-ish Ride
              My old Ride
              Hear my Vtak!!!
              MK3 Member #3
              I piss off people for fun.
              IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1

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                #8
                I have the A6 intake manifold on my A1 and I'm still running the stock LX ECU. I just hooked up a vacuum line from the back of the manifold to the vacuum plunger assembly to open the runners.

                The EX ECU controls the vacuum box that opens the runners at around 3,500 RPMs. It also has a more 'aggressive' fuel delivery for when it opens up the runners. If you want you can splice some wires to the control box and open them up manually that way.

                But if you just run the vacuum line, they'll open up around 2,500 to 3,000 RPMs. You can hear the difference in airflow. Maybe it is a loss on low end, but it is an Accord after all...

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                  #9
                  Do you know from passenger to driver side which vacuum line it was?
                  Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races.

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                    #10
                    Taken from accordaffair's DIY write up




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                      #11
                      Just FYI,

                      They are set to open at 4800 with the factory ECU.

                      There is only a 1-2HP loss with them being hooked directly to the vacuum nipple on the manifold (according to Fizzbob).

                      1-2 HP loss out of a total gain of 3-4 accounts for 30-50% of the total possible gain, making your increase 1/3 to 1/2 what it could be. Even if the manifold accounts for the entire 10HP difference (which it doesn't) you would still lose 10-20% of the total gain.

                      Rigging an RPM switch is kinda dumb IMO. By the time you get done rigging everything and making it work, it would be easier to just install the correct ECU and add the 1 wire necessary to run the show...

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by owequitit
                        Just FYI,

                        They are set to open at 4800 with the factory ECU.

                        There is only a 1-2HP loss with them being hooked directly to the vacuum nipple on the manifold (according to Fizzbob).

                        1-2 HP loss out of a total gain of 3-4 accounts for 30-50% of the total possible gain, making your increase 1/3 to 1/2 what it could be. Even if the manifold accounts for the entire 10HP difference (which it doesn't) you would still lose 10-20% of the total gain.

                        Rigging an RPM switch is kinda dumb IMO. By the time you get done rigging everything and making it work, it would be easier to just install the correct ECU and add the 1 wire necessary to run the show...
                        which a larger intake can take care of...
                        I <3 G60.

                        0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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