Kaizen Speed Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Pictures??

[Sobeman81]

i got ya. I'll have to contact the machine shop that assembled my motor to see if they did plug the orifices in the main caps. Especially since they supplied the plugs and one setscrew, for the oil pump. I know the bearings aren't in there anymore. So they might have done that too.

Is it worth it to get a "reworked" oil pump from Endyn?

[bjaccord]

not in my opinion.

I'm running a stock pump still

[WilliamW]

Here is a question. If you properly eliminate the balance shafts, your oil pressure should rise correct? With a high powered turbo application will the increase oil pressure help prevent oil starvation in the turbo? I know a performance oil pump is recommended, but could this be a 2 birds with 1 stone fix?

[d112crzy]

The only way to get oil starvation to the turbo is to have a super small restrictor. Turbo's usually get too high of pressure.

[Sobeman81]

not in my opinion.

I'm running a stock pump still

O' rlly ?!!??!? LOL. Sorry, how long have u been using it, like that? I'm thinking i'm just going to use my stock oil pump for now and use an OIL PSI gauge and if the gauge tells me i need another oil pump, then that's what i'll do. I'll have no choice at that point. BTW what is a safe PSI range to go by? What factors affect the "safe range"?

[bjaccord]

with the B.S. removed and a stock h22 pump I'm getting about 80 psi once warmed up to about 150 oil temp.

[HondaFan81]

Feel free to PM me, I have personal experience with all this. Some notes...

SUGGESTIONS FOR MOTOR OIL SYSTEM ON F22 PERFORMANCE MOTORS:

- Good condition stock OEM oil pump is fine, for stock-like RPM ranges. Get Endyn modified OEM unit if you will be higher.

- Those "disc things" are freeze plugs for the oil pump front and rear balance shaft bores. You properly install them by cleaning mating areas, then using a cylindrical type sealant (Loctite has a product, perhaps Permatex does as well) on the outer-diameter of it, evenly driving plugs into position. Let it dry for the appropriate time before motor oil is introduced/running motor. These freeze plugs serve same purpose as the Kaizenspeed kit, just go about it a different way.

- In addition to freeze plugs on oil pump, you need to plug 4 holes/passages in the aluminum main cap/girdle. Make sure to evenly press those dowel pin type plugs in, it is aluminum you are dealing with. Also, you should have one pipe plug that needs to be drilled, tapped and screwed into the block. Refer to Kaizenspeed's website, print out directions that have photos and you'll understand what I am talking about. Make sure you are installing all pieces in the proper places, DOUBLE check!

- When you go to install timing belt, Kaizenspeed offers a spacer to take place of balance shaft crank pulley OR you can use the stock piece and just not connect anything to it. You will also need to use the balance shaft tensioner pulley (originally intended for balance shaft belt), again to act as a spacer, not utilizing it for any other means.

- Stock oil pump pressure should max out by 3500-4000 rpm to 80-85 psi atleast. I have been told oil temp will more than likely be in lower 200's deg F max, but definitely should not reach 250+ deg F temps and that is indication of something wrong.

- I believe any performance engine should use a good quality motor oil. Use mineral to break-in motor up to 3000 miles. At this point, switch to a good synthetic like Torco SR-1 or other types, Royal Purple...notice these are ones with that ZDDP additive.

- Consider installing F22a6 windage tray (installs into F22a1/a4 as well), but use F22a6 oil pickup with this as well. Keeps frothing of oil from higher RPMs.

- Consider oil catch can system, to properly ventilate crankcase vapors or you will be popping dipstick and potentially motor seals. The combination of higher RPMs and higher compression (forced-induction or all-motor) lead to this being a concern.

- Make sure all motor seals are in good sealing condition, no leaks, otherwise you are defeating any purpose of keeping the oil system in proper working order.

- Make sure to change your motor oil and oil filter at proper intervals. Both need changing as the motor oil breaks down over time, air/fuel mixture eventually mixes with oil in normal blow-by and oil filters will clog and bypass the filter eventually, not filtering your system. So consider this, even in synthetics which handle the thermodynamics of a performance engine better and do not breakdown as easily as mineral oils...nothing lasts forever that's physical.

[Sobeman81]

Feel free to PM me, I have personal experience with all this. Some notes...

SUGGESTIONS FOR MOTOR OIL SYSTEM ON F22 PERFORMANCE MOTORS:

- Good condition stock OEM oil pump is fine, for stock-like RPM ranges. Get Endyn modified OEM unit if you will be higher.

- Those "disc things" are freeze plugs for the oil pump front and rear balance shaft bores. You properly install them by cleaning mating areas, then using a cylindrical type sealant (Loctite has a product, perhaps Permatex does as well) on the outer-diameter of it, evenly driving plugs into position. Let it dry for the appropriate time before motor oil is introduced/running motor. These freeze plugs serve same purpose as the Kaizenspeed kit, just go about it a different way.

- In addition to freeze plugs on oil pump, you need to plug 4 holes/passages in the aluminum main cap/girdle. Make sure to evenly press those dowel pin type plugs in, it is aluminum you are dealing with. Also, you should have one pipe plug that needs to be drilled, tapped and screwed into the block. Refer to Kaizenspeed's website, print out directions that have photos and you'll understand what I am talking about. Make sure you are installing all pieces in the proper places, DOUBLE check!

- When you go to install timing belt, Kaizenspeed offers a spacer to take place of balance shaft crank pulley OR you can use the stock piece and just not connect anything to it. You will also need to use the balance shaft tensioner pulley (originally intended for balance shaft belt), again to act as a spacer, not utilizing it for any other means.

- Stock oil pump pressure should max out by 3500-4000 rpm to 80-85 psi atleast. I have been told oil temp will more than likely be in lower 200's deg F max, but definitely should not reach 250+ deg F temps and that is indication of something wrong.

- I believe any performance engine should use a good quality motor oil. Use mineral to break-in motor up to 3000 miles. At this point, switch to a good synthetic like Torco SR-1 or other types, Royal Purple...notice these are ones with that ZDDP additive.

- Consider installing F22a6 windage tray (installs into F22a1/a4 as well), but use F22a6 oil pickup with this as well. Keeps frothing of oil from higher RPMs.

- Consider oil catch can system, to properly ventilate crankcase vapors or you will be popping dipstick and potentially motor seals. The combination of higher RPMs and higher compression (forced-induction or all-motor) lead to this being a concern.

- Make sure all motor seals are in good sealing condition, no leaks, otherwise you are defeating any purpose of keeping the oil system in proper working order.

- Make sure to change your motor oil and oil filter at proper intervals. Both need changing as the motor oil breaks down over time, air/fuel mixture eventually mixes with oil in normal blow-by and oil filters will clog and bypass the filter eventually, not filtering your system. So consider this, even in synthetics which handle the thermodynamics of a performance engine better and do not breakdown as easily as mineral oils...nothing lasts forever that's physical.

I forgot to mention this is the beginning, but I'm asking this question pertaining an H23A1. Not sure if all the points you mentioned still apply to H series motors. I would think so, it's more of a common thing than a specific thing. Couple question on what you point out Cisco.

The windage tray. I'm using an H22A1 windage tray, oil pickup, oil squirters and baffle trays. Will that still work?

I am planning on using Brad Penn Break In Oil for the break in period. After that i plan on using Royal Purple. I'm using Torco Red engine assembly lube when i put the cams in.

I have all new OEM seals going in. So, i don't have to worry about oil leaks and what not.

As for the Dowel pins being used in the main girdle. The short block was assembled by a machine shop in Indiana ( ERL Performance, who are AKA Darton East.) So, i don't know if they DID install those, in there. They DID supply the elimination kit and separate the balance shafts, as well as remove the balance shaft bearings from inside the motor. This leads me to believe they did install the dowels too. I will need to send them an e-mail and ask to be sure.