has anyone found a way to to make a turbo work while keeping the front motor mount. i was thinking of using a ssautocrome dsm manifold and mounting my t3 to were the output end faces the alternator but is there enought clearence for this to work/ is there enough room to run the downpipe by the front motor mount? If i do have to get rid of the front motor mount, what can i do to keep the motor down ?
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
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front motor mount issues
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Why go through all of that hassle? Just remove the front mount, put a polyurethane insert in the rear and fill the driver and passenger side mounts.
You're motor won't be going anywhere.
-Methael RavenwingSOHC Non-VTEC F-series for life
"It is the fools prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."
-Morpheus (The Sandman)
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I got mine from SummitRacing.com, they were only like $15 and they giving you free shipping and handling...I'm at work right now so I don't have the part # but I'll look when I get home if I get the chance.
-Methael RavenwingSOHC Non-VTEC F-series for life
"It is the fools prerogative to utter truths that no one else will speak."
-Morpheus (The Sandman)
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thats not a front mount, its a torsional bar, so when you stomp on it the engine doesnt twist too much, without the torsion bar, the existing mounts will eventually get fucked up, let alone being modded or turboed
"You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
"the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
"Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland
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could one of those motor dampers work to replace the front mount? its very slim like a hood strut and could be out of the way of the turbo. use your head. there is someone on here that used an 80's toyota mount. others have used a lude front crossmemeber in conjuction with the lude mount. you'll always run into problems trying to turbo a non turbo motor....thats just part of the fun.Turbo f22a/f22b vtec

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custom manifold or get a custom front tq strap fabricated to keep the engine from rocking
if your going to turn up the boost down the line, and are really into it, its strongly suggested, if any of you have seen eric's dyno vid...his engine had so much movement...and that was only at 7psi..
Turbo CB7 is Gone
...But I Still Come Around
AWD TURBO IS THE ONLY WAY TO GO!!
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err whatever eric was at...if you imagine upping the boost afte ryou build the engine, to like 15 or so...god you need that front tq strap, its just that the stock placement of it is just in primary placement for turbo needs
Turbo CB7 is Gone
...But I Still Come Around
AWD TURBO IS THE ONLY WAY TO GO!!
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it was 8psi with a slight little spike to 9ish.
iv been driving without the front torque strap for the longest time now. it really doesnt bother me at all. i honestly think people make way to big a deal out of this (unless you have a track car or some shit). if your that worried about it just fill the other mounts.Last edited by Accord R33; 02-28-2005, 02:42 PM.
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My point exactly. Seriously just fill the other mounts, if i have to take video of me revving my engine and slamming the throttle violently to show u that what i'm saying is true then i will.Originally posted by Accord R33i honestly think people make way to big a deal out of this (unless you have a track car or some shit). if your that worried about it just fill the other mounts.Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12
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