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f20b turbo build

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    #31
    Originally posted by fstacrd View Post
    my thread kept getting deleted in the swap thread so i'll post it with my f20b turbo build.. to find out if you got the jdm f20b manual straight from the shipper, see if you have the manual flywheel on the motor as I did, which I luckily had one ..
    Making a thread title that made it clear what you were saying would've resulted in your threads not being deleted. BOTH threads you made had titles that looked as if you were asking which engine you should get, or which one people preferred. I have not asked the moderator who deleted the threads exactly why he did so (same person deleted both), but I can say with certainty that was the reason why.
    "How to tell if your F20B is manual or automatic" would have worked wonders. Here, it does no good at all.

    Of course, any shady reseller could always slap a flywheel onto an F20B from any junkyard F/H engine. When you can get a couple hundred bucks more for a manual F20B, it's worth the effort to make that switch.






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      #32
      Originally posted by toycar View Post
      Internal WG's do work better for the typical enthusiast.


      Most guys don't setup an external WG to function correctly. Shit, most aftermarket manifolds just have the gate activated off of 1 runner. All the WG does is bleed off the pressure from the exhaust housing to slow down the compressor speed.


      So, when the gate opens it effects flow on the runner that is now basically operating with a giant leak. That turbulence from the individual runner causes restricted flow at the collector and this is why internal gates operate the way they do. Running a y pipe for your WG to route into your DP is a good idea and helps with this flow issue, but does not solve it entirely. When flow is effected on 1 runner, it effects flow at the collector. When you dump to the atmosphere, you have nothing really to help maintain flow, its just wide open, and that drastically effects flow on the closest cylinder.


      A quality external gate will releive pressure in the exhaust housing, and not effect flow in the runners between the port and the collector. How does this happen? Well, a quality external gate exits after the collector but before the turbo flange and MOST manifolds aren't designed for that. Few are. But as an example, look at the generic log manifold. External gate is directly on top of 1 cylinder so when the gate opens it effects flow in the plenum(log) of the manifold.


      So, unless you are going balls out with a really nice manifold, you may as well run an internal gate. They ARE designed to be reliable. Most cars that have a turbo, have an internal WG. Those WG's see 100k miles usually w/out any problems. When setup correctly, an external gate works best. Setting one up correctly though, most people don't bother with that which then makes an internal gate better.
      whats a decent priced internal wastegate turbo?


      93 accord coupe lxr
      10 fusion se slammed

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        #33
        MHI-16g would be the turbo of choice in my opinion. 330-350whp would be the top of the spectrum though. I was running my 16g on an OEM internal WG(22psi) and that was logging 33-34lbs/min(about 300-310whp). People in the dsm community have pushed the 16g to 28-30psi plenty of times and that would make the power you are looking for.



        I have to warn you though at those power levels torque steer, wheel hop and other steering/suspension related issues are going to come up.




        A genuine MHI-16g, a 2g cast manifold ported to 7cm and an OEM o2 housing will set you up nice and could be had for $600 or so for all of the above. I paid $450 for my 16g, $60 for my 2g manifold and the turbo had the o2 housing on it.


        The holset series turbos are nice to run on a DSM manifold too. They have turbos just larger than the 16g all the way up to the monster hx40. Holset makes a nice turbo. The hy35 would work out pretty nice if you wanted more than what a 16g could offer you and then you could still run a dsm manifold.
        Last edited by toycar; 06-07-2013, 12:18 PM.
        Originally posted by wed3k
        im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by toycar View Post
          MHI-16g would be the turbo of choice in my opinion. 330-350whp would be the top of the spectrum though. I was running my 16g on an OEM internal WG(22psi) and that was logging 33-34lbs/min(about 300-310whp). People in the dsm community have pushed the 16g to 28-30psi plenty of times and that would make the power you are looking for.



          I have to warn you though at those power levels torque steer, wheel hop and other steering/suspension related issues are going to come up.




          A genuine MHI-16g, a 2g cast manifold ported to 7cm and an OEM o2 housing will set you up nice and could be had for $600 or so for all of the above. I paid $450 for my 16g, $60 for my 2g manifold and the turbo had the o2 housing on it.


          The holset series turbos are nice to run on a DSM manifold too. They have turbos just larger than the 16g all the way up to the monster hx40. Holset makes a nice turbo. The hy35 would work out pretty nice if you wanted more than what a 16g could offer you and then you could still run a dsm manifold.
          the cummins turbo? lol


          93 accord coupe lxr
          10 fusion se slammed

          Comment


            #35
            In for results! I'll try to contribute useful info when I can as well. Good luck!

            10.2:1 F-series, 417whp, 398lb/ft Single-Cam on pump gas

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