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maintaining a boosted engine?

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    maintaining a boosted engine?

    Couldn't find much regarding the f22 when boosted.

    But what are some areas of extra wear and tear when boosted? and how to combat them?

    -more frequent oil changes?
    -Valve adjustments
    -timing belt

    Those who know, what are the keys here to success?


    "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
    "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
    "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

    #2
    Check for wear and tear on the turbo signs of smoke,check for leaks, chek oil ever 2 days check water every 2 days. monitor temperature and temp guage.

    Comment


      #3
      Theres suppose to be some interval to rebuild the turbo but im not sure what it is. Frequent oil changes/checking seals/and as mentioned by sparkle monitoring temps and such will help.

      The New-ish Ride
      My old Ride
      Hear my Vtak!!!
      MK3 Member #3
      I piss off people for fun.
      IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1

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        #4
        what about engine internals, anything to watch out for?

        I mean, does F/I definately mean increased wear and shortened engine life?


        "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
        "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
        "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

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          #5
          WEll if you maintain it good and depends on your tune. Some people are running 10psi daily on this bored with the f22ax block.

          The New-ish Ride
          My old Ride
          Hear my Vtak!!!
          MK3 Member #3
          I piss off people for fun.
          IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by starchland
            what about engine internals, anything to watch out for?

            I mean, does F/I definately mean increased wear and shortened engine life?
            well, there really is no way to check the internals, unless you want to take your engine apart every few weeks. only thing you can do is to check for compression.

            but you shouldnt even worry about this because we all know that you made sure that your engine was in tip top shape before you boosted right?

            CrzyTuning now offering port services

            Comment


              #7
              I check my

              oil lines
              blow by
              wastegate
              boost controler
              methonal tank
              oil condition
              coolent
              manifold for leaks

              At every gas stop.

              2000 miles I change
              oil
              spark plugs
              Check compression
              seafoam the intake
              Check timing
              Reset ecu
              pvc valve

              4000 miles
              change cap and rotor
              Check coil out put
              Rotate tires
              Change coolent
              Put it on the emissions machine

              This may seem like a lot of work, but when you add a turbo to a na car, you asking for problems. Oil will turn dark in half the time. The top of spark plugs get bent misterously. The ph in the radiator does weird things. If you have cat on your exhuast, it will usually be toasted ever 4000 miles, and make4 pack pressure issues.
              Last edited by CBL; 05-26-2006, 10:25 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                yeah oil changes darker quicker with a turbo car compared to N/A definitely

                Comment


                  #9
                  My suggestion, I have been boosting 10-12 psi, on daily driving eversince I boosted my car. And 14psi high when I race on stock pump. First I made sure the engine is healthy, I got 185 psi all across. Then No smoke or leak. Did all the tune up. I upgrade all intake, exhaust, fuel, and clutch all in one shot. Including timing belt change and all the seals and gasket that I can get access to while the parts are all apart.

                  Now my only monitor is EGT guage and Wideband O2 sensor. Just make sure your below 12 on wideband and your egt shouldn't run higher than 1400F, then your engine will be running like when it was stock. Untill now my car runs strong. I boost it all the time. That set up is same as stock DSM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Im going to have so many guages when I get my stuff set up lol... temp guage for front mid and rear of engine... couple of boost guages... tach... overkill do you think? I don't.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The gauges you will want to get are:
                      1 quality boost gauge
                      1 quality oil pressure gauge

                      Then you can add:
                      1 coolant temp gauge
                      1 oil temp gauge
                      1 tachometer
                      1 voltmeter

                      As far as maintanence its almost the same but way more often! And youll want to check spark plugs and compression often! But really just watch for deadly signs of detonation and engine wear, smoke from exhaust when shifting, turbo smoking or shaftplay/not free spinning! Also I have built all my oil lines from HD and CT hardlines! So if they flex theyll begin to crack and leak. With mine I have installed a compression connector to the back of the block which then has a foot of hard line till it goes into a tee for oil pressure gaugeand continues into another tee for the oil pressure sending unit(relocated from back of block) and then continues to the turbo via compression connector to hardline to compression connected valve, to slow the pressure to the turbo, from the valve to compression connector to stock dsm oil inlet line, which you have to carefuly rebend to mate and cut for connection! I may change the hardline from the back to the tees to a flex line to allow for movement and prevent headaches in future!!! In other words watch for leaks!!
                      Oh and watch BOV for oil in the release area! If there is your turbo needs some tlc!!

                      WaC!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Well I always check all that stuff just cause i love doing maintenance shit, and my engine is probably in very good shape for its mileage. Im gonna do a compression test and go from there.


                        "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
                        "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
                        "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

                        Comment


                          #13
                          [QUOTE=NAiL05 Some people are running 10psi daily on this bored with the f22ax block.[/QUOTE]


                          Board.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by westsideaccord
                            The gauges you will want to get are:
                            1 quality boost gauge
                            1 quality oil pressure gauge

                            Then you can add:
                            1 coolant temp gauge
                            1 oil temp gauge
                            1 tachometer
                            1 voltmeter

                            As far as maintanence its almost the same but way more often! And youll want to check spark plugs and compression often! But really just watch for deadly signs of detonation and engine wear, smoke from exhaust when shifting, turbo smoking or shaftplay/not free spinning! Also I have built all my oil lines from HD and CT hardlines! So if they flex theyll begin to crack and leak. With mine I have installed a compression connector to the back of the block which then has a foot of hard line till it goes into a tee for oil pressure gaugeand continues into another tee for the oil pressure sending unit(relocated from back of block) and then continues to the turbo via compression connector to hardline to compression connected valve, to slow the pressure to the turbo, from the valve to compression connector to stock dsm oil inlet line, which you have to carefuly rebend to mate and cut for connection! I may change the hardline from the back to the tees to a flex line to allow for movement and prevent headaches in future!!! In other words watch for leaks!!
                            Oh and watch BOV for oil in the release area! If there is your turbo needs some tlc!!
                            LOL yeah this guy knows first hand what to do and what not to do. Hes refusing to let me buy a DSM setup. Whoreface!!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              relax, you can still use some of the dsm parts, like injectors and 16g turbo etc. just prefer to piece it together the right way the first time! I didnt and regret it. Its all good now!
                              PS: sorry to thread jack!

                              WaC!

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